....I wanted to get an idea of how low everyone has gone.

H&R Springs
Bilstein Sport Shocks.
stock pads 4 and 3
235/35/19 and 265/30/19
no rubbing...no rolling of fenders

Measured from the ground thru the middle of the wheel/hub:

front 25 1/4 inch both sides
rear 25 3/4 inch both sides

yes the rear is a half inch higher....seems most everyone else is the other way around. I am thinking of going down to a 1 or 2 in the back to even things out. Any input......thanks.

I have never measured mine but the rear set a little lower, Also keep in mind that front finder is cut more than the rear.. If you driving and parked no one will notice the diff.

Just wait till pile a lot of crap in the trunk, then your slammed!

I have the Kleemann Speed Sensitive Suspension.
Mine is lower in the front than the rear. I haven't measured it but it is noticeable lower in the front.
No rubbing but noticed what seams to be excessive amount of negative camber. I've had the car aligne three times and they canot take the negative camber out. Anybody else with a lowerd vehicle have this problem?
Tim

Tim:
How bad did you slam the car?
What is your camber right now (degree)?
For cars like CLK, you have to have at least 1degree camber at the rear.


Solihin

the way you wanna be. It's designed not only for carrying things and people, but for making the rear suspension work properly under acceleration. Notice in the spring guides that almost everyone shows less lowering in the rear than the front. And the camber problem won't be so severe...just my .02, hope this helps...

03 CLK 430 Cab, H&R, 2f3r, 18" Brabus 3 piece....
You can see a pic at www.encoremotors.info.

Hey Tim!

Let me describe what is going one with the front of your (and any other lowered CLK for that matter) car.

The front end does not have any camber adjustment provision, only toe. MBZ did away with the "everything is adjustable" idea long ago. To correct negative camber you have two options:

A. "Taxicab" bolts, or camber correction bolts sold by MBZ. These will replace the lower control arm pivot with an offset- giving you approx .5 degree positive or negative adjustment. Often this is not enough range.

B. K-MAC eccentric control arm bushings. Very high quality units with loads of adjustment range.

The other problem you face is the steeing rack itself- Lowering the car changes the relation ship of the rack/tierods/ends to the wheel spindle. This will adversely effect your camber when the wheels are turned. The only solution is to move the rack upwards- which you cant do as it is as high as it can go given its location on the subframe.

What you are saying is that the height of the wheel/tire is different front front to rear- no amount of spring pad changing will change this as pads only change the relationship of the body to the wheel. What you are seeing is the difference in total circumference of the two tire sizes.

...ooops....

meant that those are the measurements from the ground thru the middle of the wheel to the bottom of the fender.

I have front and rear negative camber after I lowered mine with H&R springs and konis, doesn't bother me. Like Ben (Mach430) has explained several times on this board, that helps wear out better your tires, besides the car looks more agressive.

mine sits a little higher at the rear than the front. I like it better cause when you floor the pedal, the back side should squash like a fat c**t!

whatever...

Ahmed, H&R's will lower your car a little more than Eibach's.

thanks, i'm happy with the height! Cause at it stands, it rubs at the rear over bumps when i have passengers siiting at the rear.

My shocks are stock cause i dont wanna sacrifice comfort.

I just try to drive alone like a sad F**K!

You shouldn't be having that problem, have you rolled your fenders?

no i havent, and havent contemplated it either. I'm afraid my rear wheels will look stupid if i roll the rear fenders.

I would like the rear wheels to stick out a bit more if i roll them

As you can see, my front sticks out just alittle if you really pay attention

Rolling the fenders will not change the exterior look at all. What they do is press in the inside part of the fender that sticks out.
The look will be the same, with no rubbing.

really?

I'll check it out then. thanks alot for the info.

I really didnt know, i thought the fenders would look fat from the outside!

great stuff, prob solved thanks to you bro!

( YOU ARE A BOY ARENT YOU?)

Don't sweat it man.

Ahmed, do be careful when you roll the fender, if you bring your car to an unprofessional body shop, they might crack the paint on your fender.
They have to heat them and knock them carefully.

Rolling the fender only gives you a little more room for the tires.
The one that make your body looks fat is the "wide body kit" or the "flare fender".

Am I right Theine?
Theine: does the stock shock provide more comfort than the aftermarket Koni? I thought that the ride will be pretty bouncy if you change the spring but still using the stock shock.

(Theine: the guy who wanted to install the parts in my car was busy last Saturday, so he sceduled me again for another day :-( So, I still have to be patient.......)


Solihin

It will definitely be bouncy with the stock shocks, once you put the konis, the car won't move.

I just got 19s on my car and did not have to roll my denders at all!!!!!

And I have H&R Cupkit on it.