dlbehrns

Hey y'all I installed Vogtland springs, Bilstein Sport shocks, ghostrider's camber bars, MB lower control arm camber bolts and stainless brake lines(by the way Marcus, the power bleeder worked just fine). That ***** is hard work man! Question: how long does it take for the car to settle? With the oem springs and the Vogtlands side by side I can see that the Vs are definitely shorter but the car has not dropped a bit. I was all jazzed up to see a nice drop on the car but NADA. How many miles does it take cuz I would like to get the car aligned a.s.a.p.

MarcusF

You're the 3rd person to tell me that. I'm going to have to try mine again. Did you do it with fluid in the bleeder, or dry (just use the bleeder to pressurize the MC)?

dlbehrns

With fluid in the bleeder. It is kinda wierd because you will see air and fluid in the line going to the top of the master cylinder and you would think you are pumping air into the system but when I bled the caliper. I raised the bleeder above the master cylinder so the line to it filled with fluid before I started to bleed. I only saw a few bubbles come out when I first open the petcock before the fluid changed color to blue. So that told me that was air already in the system. The peddle is firmer than before with the stainless lines so I don't believe there is any air in the lines. Give it another try with no less than 20-25 lbs of pressure in the bleeder. Let me know how it turns out Marcus.

OGCLK320

I have your same setup, Vogtland springs, Bilstein sports, and zero pads all the way around, I noticed a large difference when I lowered the car right away, Maybe it was not having the pads, But I would say it settled within a few days to a week, but I drive my car everyday, I was so happy with the way it handled and looked, Its a must to have these things lowered, If I see them on stock springs now, they look like a 4x4 compared to my car, haha

Enjoy your new look and feel of your ride!

dlbehrns

I had #5 pads in the front and 3s on the rear. odd combination I know. When I took the first oem spring off the front I thought I would pull the rear on the same side and reverse them if the numbers were right however, the front pads are larger diameter than the rears. what I find odd is that even though the springs were visibly shorter than oems there is no drop. my ride is stiffer and turns are flatter but the car in not lower at all. This concernes me because the rear camber bars and front camber bolts I installed to counteract increased negative camber due to lowering may not even be needed.

when you say you noticed a big difference, say more about that please. And, without the pads can you feel the spring move around at all?

dlbehrns

At Benzworld one person advised to loosen the control arm bolts with the wheels under load and re-tighten them.

OGCLK320

I noticed a huge difference in the height of my car, maybe it was because it did not have the pads, but it was a good inch and a half, My rear end of my car is tuckin the rear tires, with an 18 inch rim, its low for a CLK, and I cant feel the springs move at all, Its solid, and handles pretty damn well, give them a few weeks and maybe they will settle more, but I think your pads are most of your problem.

GiZzO

Nice to see you got your springs and shocks set in + more. I would give it at least a month to settle sucks with your car unaligned. Maybe load your car, go on a trip, maybe change your route to work with speed bumps to promote settling. But shouldn't be much difference. Like the poster above says its most likely your spring pads. But still wait till it settles, cause maybe your front might be too high or its just right after settle; so you would go #3f #1r (if it was #5f #3r).
Simply just going #1 all around isn't an answer, it is different for every car. If the car doesn't sit right you could really mess up the geometry/balance of the car, immediately will notice this when corning and braking. Final result should be an even drop from OEM. Aftermarket drops slightly differ from front to back between brands and even how the car is setup, use the pads as your final adjust.

BTW sent you a PM, have a totally off topic question for ya

dlbehrns

what is confusing is Vogtland claims a drop of 1.5 inches and side by side the springs are clearly shorter but once the change was all said and done, no drop. Given that all the new components were shorter I should have at least started off lower and then, if any settling was to occur that would come after the fact. that's what logic tells me anyway. think I will go wtih #3 pads in front and 1s in back.

dlbehrns

picking up new pads tomorrow and hopefully in on Saturday.

dlbehrns

FWIW: a suspension shop told me that before tightening lower control arm bolts the suspension/wheel should be at its normal ride height. if the bolts are too tight they COULD bind the metal sleeve on the inside of the bushing which would not allow the car to settle AND destroy the bushing.

dlbehrns

front pads on back order, oh well

Ghostrider@P1 Performance

Has it settled any further?

dlbehrns

it has a little bit Mel but still not what I was expecting given the Vogtlands were visibly shorter than the oems to begin with. the ride has softened a bit as well but still quite stiff and uncomfortable on bumpy roads. What few miles I have gone, maybe 200, the rear tires are showing visible outside wear. I'm off next week and will put the thinner pads on, rotate the back tires to the front and to get some more miles on it and then, sometime this fall I will have it aligned at the dealer before i take it to a road couse across the river in Iowa. $175 for a day on the course. I think one has to go through a basic road course etiquette/rules class and a few laps with an instructor before they turn you loose on the course. Sounds like fun to me. Wanna come?