CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

2003 CLK320 Convertible switch needed

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Old 10-18-2012, 10:19 AM
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2003 CLK320 Convertible switch needed

Hi all. I am in the middle of a an issue with my top not going up / down. I've taken the back panel off and replaced the relay, topped off the oil resevoire etc. Put everything back together and I still get a slow blink when trying to put the top down. Roll bar headrest go up and down and when I release the top latch the windows go down as they should.

MB wants 300+ to trouble shoot and I may get to that but am trying a couple of other things first.

At this point I want to replace the middle dash convertible switch but am not having any luck on the internet. Could anyone help me with an actual part number or link to somewhere I can make the purchase.

Thanks for your help.

Jeff
Old 10-18-2012, 12:03 PM
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Slow blinking indicates a system malfunction.

Did you check the 7 hydraulic cylinders in the top system for leaks?

Top Hydraulics has an excellent DIY article.

http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/c...y-instructions

You can test the switch operation with a multimeter.
Old 10-18-2012, 12:45 PM
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02 clk 55, 13 GL 450
Does a double push/pull of the switch raise/lower the windows? Yes=switch ok. To be honest though, yet to hear anyone with a bad switch. Luggage protector in the trunk in position? Also are you pushing up on the top and does it stay propped up in the open position when you try to open?

Last edited by bobbyjo9; 10-18-2012 at 12:48 PM.
Old 10-18-2012, 01:27 PM
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I'll try to answer each...

Did you check the 7 hydraulic cylinders in the top system for leaks?
- No but i will tonight when I get home...
- I looked at the diagram for the W209 but mine is a W208 which i know is basically the same but pumps etc are in different places and I didn't know if the cylinders would be the same.

double push/pull of the switch raise/lower the windows?
- yes
Luggage protector in the trunk in position?
- yes

are you pushing up on the top?
- yes

Also when i release the latch the windows go down. When I pull up on the switch ( I am pushing on the top ) the back cover doesn't rise.

If I raised that manually ( have no clue how ) would that allow the top to retract? If it did then at least i would know where a problem may lie.
- will try this - any chance you know of a link that describes the process?

If it's not a bad switch are the options besides MB for the test? My son has a regular code tested. would that work on the MB or would i need something specific for the MB convertible?

Appreciate the help guys...

Last edited by gatorj; 10-18-2012 at 01:30 PM.
Old 10-18-2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gatorj
Did you check the 7 hydraulic cylinders in the top system for leaks?
- No but i will tonight when I get home...
- I looked at the diagram for the W209 but mine is a W208 which i know is basically the same but pumps etc are in different places and I didn't know if the cylinders would be the same.

When I pull up on the switch the back cover doesn't rise.
The site also had a link (see below) with excellent DIY instructions for the W208

http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/W208...eplacement.pdf

Instructions for operating the top manually are in your owners manual.
Old 10-19-2012, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gatorj
I'll try to answer each...

Also when i release the latch the windows go down. When I pull up on the switch ( I am pushing on the top ) the back cover doesn't rise.


If it's not a bad switch are the options besides MB for the test? My son has a regular code tested. would that work on the MB or would i need something specific for the MB convertible?

Appreciate the help guys...
Does the rear bow lock release, top raise, and then stop when the cover should open?

I doubt your sons reader will be of use to you. Larger indy shops should have a scanner to pull the codes for you. It's not vert specific but will need to run a full scan.
Old 10-19-2012, 07:14 PM
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While I've yet to have any problems with my top operating properly, the system is way over engineered (Read: complex). Prior to the CLK, I have a BMW 318IC convertible that was available with a power or manual roof. I picked the manual, not only less expensive than the power roof model, I figured much less to go wrong. So simple, just a lever in to release the cover (e.g. simple cable release like the one that releases the engine compartment hood). Raising the roof (same size as the one on my CLK) was an easy one person job.

Your sons code reader is for OBDII engine/emission related diagnostics. More complete diagnostics require STAR software that runs on a laptop. Even then, enough detail my not be be available to pin point the exact fault. If all else fails, some dealers and most independent shops will provide a diagnostic analysis for $100.

If I were in your shoes, I would check for leaks at each of the 7 hydraulic cylinders, as well as operation of the 2 locks (see the detailed how to instruction link I previously mentioned).

From what I've read to date the most common roof problems are with the 2 cables that run from the front to back of the roof, the relay, the limit switches or hydraulics. There must also be some kind of controller block that sequences operation, but have never read where it was a problem.

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Old 10-20-2012, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Serndipity
There must also be some kind of controller block that sequences operation, but have never read where it was a problem.
There sure is and for the bargain price of only ~$1600 you too can have your very own shiney new one from the dealer! The top has its own computer nestled back by the amp. I agree it's not a common fault but funny how stealerships seem to think it's a VERY common part to go!

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