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Thanks for your efforts to better show this work. It is SOOO welcomed.
One point I would like to make is- do not use the harness connector screw to pull it into place. The threads inside are plastic and you can easily strip them. Instead, push it in as far as possible then snug it up tight with the screw. Perhaps someone could give the torque measurement. But I was advised wrong and stripped mine then I had to redo the job a few months later including another conductor plate..
Thanks. I didn't want to sound like I was beating a dead horse since it's not really a new topic. When I first heard about this I thought it was a complicated task from the repair estimates I'd seen.
Good point to bring that up too. Also not a bad idea to make sure your new connector fits properly while you have the new conductor plate on the bench. Last thing you want to is to be underneath the car fighting with it, unsure if it fits to begin with. Don't forget to put a new o-ring on the harness side of the plug too. My new connector came with one.
Valvebody bolts and pan bolts 8Nm (71 in lb)
Plug adapter (guide bushing) 7mm bolt: 2.5Nm (22 in lb)
While I was at it I decided to check the resistance of the solenoids to rule out any bad ones. For anyone with absolutely no electrical experience, this is very easy. All you need is a multimeter, even a cheap one that can measure ohms. You can check the solenoids themselves or at the pins. I did both, but ultimately the pins are where the resistance of the solenoids meets the harness.
Here’s an example:
Per the tech tips PDF I listed above, the #2 line pressure modulating solenoid should read between 4.7 and 5.3 ohms. It can also be checked between pins 2 & 6 per the table.
Mine read 5.0 ohms so it’s good.
The fluid, conductor plate and connector change was a success! No leaks and it drives like a different car. I hate to say it but the car was a dog before this. Yesterday was the first time I've ever experienced wheel hop by stabbing the throttle from a roll. It's shifting smooth as butter now.
If you'd like to flush your trans, I disconnected the line on the driver's side of the car with a piece of 5/8" heater hose shoved onto the line (transmission side) and draining into a jug (have 3 or 4 on hand). It's hard to see in the pic since I have on a black glove, but my index finger is on the line. I used all three 5 liter jugs to flush and my fluid level was just over the 25 degree mark on the dipstick while cold when I finished filling the final time....and it was cold outside lol! I'll recheck later to make sure I don't need to add anymore.
It's a pain in the *** process by yourself so if you have anyone to help it's a plus. I added 2 -3 liters at a time, started the car, then flushed 2 -3 liters at a time. I did this until I got fresh fluid on the final flush. If you've never done this, keep in mind that if you get no fluid on your first time starting the car, it's because you don't have enough fluid for the system to circulate, add more. I had to add 4 liters before I got any fluid coming out of the line and assume it's because my level was low (due to a previous leak) prior to dropping the pan.
01-18-2020, 01:15 PM
