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Hello,
After searching on this site I have found that my problem is almost definitely the conductor plate. (Gets stuck in 3rd gear, turn car off and on and problem goes away.) Is the conductor plate a DIY for an experienced shade tree mechanic or does it require dealer programming or special tools? From what I can find it looks to be pretty straight forward. I just haven't seen anybody do a write-up.
Wow, nobody has done this repair on their own? I was able to find some schematics and it doesn't look like any special tools are needed. The only problem I can see is that it might need some programming but that doesn't seem likely.
Never heard or seen it discussed here on the forum....doubt there are many out there who have done it, if Marcus or Ash dont know then you are pretty much on your own.
Never heard or seen it discussed here on the forum....doubt there are many out there who have done it, if Marcus or Ash dont know then you are pretty much on your own.
I've found a dozen threads where the problem is diagnosed as the conductor plate but no write ups or people mentioning that they did the work themselves. From what I can tell, after you drop the transmission pan it is right there, ready to be removed.
Excellent description of the diy on one of the ML forums - just google it
I was able to find some write ups for other models which would be very similar to ours. I actually found some good videos on a couple Dodge sites. It looks to be very doable for a competent DIY'er.
I've had the job done. I started a thread years ago when it failed. I have competent mechanical skills (have rebuilt more Porsche engines than I can remember). That said, I personally wouldn't do the job if it failed again. I'd take it back to the dealer. A DIY type "could" do it. However, after the plate is changed, I think a STAR box is needed to clear the code. My reader wouldn't clear the code after a restart.
I've had the job done. I started a thread years ago when it failed. I have competent mechanical skills (have rebuilt more Porsche engines than I can remember). That said, I personally wouldn't do the job if it failed again. I'd take it back to the dealer. A DIY type "could" do it. However, after the plate is changed, I think a STAR box is needed to clear the code. My reader wouldn't clear the code after a restart.
I've been wondering about needing the code(s) cleared. The thing is, my car drives fine 99.9% of the time and there are no CEL. It isn't in limp mode or anything. A couple times a month it decides to get stuck in a gear but when I turn it off and on it is back to normal. I'm not sure what resetting it would do for me since the TCM doesn't seem to have any problems right now. Or do you think putting the new conductor plate in will cause it to have issues??? I can always take it to the dealer and have it reset if I need to and still save $500+ on the job.
I just finished replacing mine on Sunday. I had to do it on jack stands and that's a bit tough.
The hardest part was removing and replacing the 13 pin connector harness sleeve. It's tight above there in the CLK55.
I also found there was no covers on the shift solenoids. Does that sound rite?
So at this point I now need to have the code cleared.
I;d say it was a intermediately tough job. Relative to my ability that is.
And it's warm where I am, that can make or break a job for sure.
For tools you'll need a 7 MM deep socket for the connector harness sleeve removal and I also needed a few extensions and swivel to get to mine.
A torx 30 bit for the valve body bolts.
And a 5MM Alan head for the pan plug.
The pan bolts were either the 5MM ot the toex30, I already can't remember.
Here is a video of someone doing it on a ML. This helped me although it is not too thorough.
That's exactly what I wanted to hear. I have read that not all of them have covers over the solenoids. It sounds like some of the replacement kits comes with them. If they aren't there it is ok. How does your car drive since you did it? Any issues with the the codes being left in there? What I am wondering is if I can just leave them in there until I actually need to go to the dealer. I live 3 hours away so I would rather not spend 6 hours just to reset the TCM.
I haven't found a place to reset the codes yet, my car is not a daily driver.
My OBDII doesn't erase the code and I've had negative responses from the local German car shops around here.
The dealer will bill you $2,000+, but they are thieves. In fact, if you ask the dealer for a quote on the job, they will despise you because you already know too much, since they normally stick their customers for at least $6,000+ for a transmission replacement/rebuild.
I was going to do it myself last year, but I found an indie that did it for $650 total, included the parts.
The plate from the dealership was $306, same OEM from parts.com was $196.
I decided to do it myself. The parts are ordered and will be here next week. I'll be able to do the whole job plus some extras for under $300. A buddy of mine is a mechanic and we did a test run with his code reader and it will read and clear tranny codes so I am all set. I'll post again when I am done.
I decided to do it myself. The parts are ordered and will be here next week. I'll be able to do the whole job plus some extras for under $300. A buddy of mine is a mechanic and we did a test run with his code reader and it will read and clear tranny codes so I am all set. I'll post again when I am done.
When you get the chance, can you find out what code reader he is using? Tranny codes seem to be a tough one to find readers to reset. Thanks!!
When you get the chance, can you find out what code reader he is using? Tranny codes seem to be a tough one to find readers to reset. Thanks!!
It is a top of the line Snap on. He had to use a special cable and a chip that he adds to the machine. He had never used it on a Mercedes before (not many of them around my area) so he wasn't even sure if it would work. Looks like it will read everything on the car.
It is a top of the line Snap on. He had to use a special cable and a chip that he adds to the machine. He had never used it on a Mercedes before (not many of them around my area) so he wasn't even sure if it would work. Looks like it will read everything on the car.
I did the job this weekend and the results were better than expected. I replaced the conductor plate, fluid, filter, solenoid swap and the Sonax overlap valve upgrade. It shifts like butter!! So smooth. The whole lifetime fluid idea is nuts. At 95K miles this fluid was junk. I couldn't imagine driving any longer on it. I'm going to drive a couple weeks and do another fluid change and then repeat one more time. Also, my car never went into limp mode and drives perfectly. I'm still going to take it to read and erase the codes so that if I have future problems I will know they are fresh codes. Overall this was not a difficult DIY. This was maybe a 4 or 5 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
I did the job this weekend and the results were better than expected. I replaced the conductor plate, fluid, filter, solenoid swap and the Sonax overlap valve upgrade. It shifts like butter!! So smooth. The whole lifetime fluid idea is nuts. At 95K miles this fluid was junk. I couldn't imagine driving any longer on it. I'm going to drive a couple weeks and do another fluid change and then repeat one more time. Also, my car never went into limp mode and drives perfectly. I'm still going to take it to read and erase the codes so that if I have future problems I will know they are fresh codes. Overall this was not a difficult DIY. This was maybe a 4 or 5 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
Good man, way to go.
It's great to get feedback like yours.
Congratulations.
I did the job this weekend and the results were better than expected. I replaced the conductor plate, fluid, filter, solenoid swap and the Sonax overlap valve upgrade. It shifts like butter!! So smooth. The whole lifetime fluid idea is nuts. At 95K miles this fluid was junk. I couldn't imagine driving any longer on it. I'm going to drive a couple weeks and do another fluid change and then repeat one more time. Also, my car never went into limp mode and drives perfectly. I'm still going to take it to read and erase the codes so that if I have future problems I will know they are fresh codes. Overall this was not a difficult DIY. This was maybe a 4 or 5 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
Old thread I know. Krazzz it would be great if you could expand on a few things you mentioned as I have not seen them come up in the other posts. Solenoid swap ? Part number? Sonax overlap valve part number?
I know this thread is old but replacing the conductor plate really isn't that bad of a job at all. I've heard of repair quotes upwards of $1000 and that's highway robbery. I think the key to success is buying a quality conductor plate. What led me to doing this job is that the car is about to turn 100k miles, fluid color looked more like lightly used motor oil and my 1-2 up/down shifting seemed a little sluggish. Upon disassembly I did find my harness connector full of fluid. My plan is to flush the old fluid when it all goes back together.
I'm doing this in my garage on jack stands...I wish I had a lift!
Here's a good DIY on replacing the conductor plate on a 722.6.
-(3) 5 liter jugs of Pentosin ATF 134 from Rock Auto $117 shipped (bought this much fluid to flush trans)
-Conductor plate, drain plug gasket, dipstick pin FCP Euro $182.71 shipped
-Filter +gasket $14.60 Amazon
-Shift solenoid o-rings $15.92 shipped Cobra Transmission
-Transmission harness connector $3.55 Amazon (rolling the dice on this one although it had good reviews). TOTAL $333.78
I pulled everything last night and will be reinstalling today. I'll report back on results and if my cheap connector bites me in the *** or not. I also thoroughly cleaned the harness plug with brake parts cleaner to remove any fluid and blew it clean with compressed air.
I cannot stress the importance of a clean surface when doing transmission work. I bought this pan for rebuilding carbs years ago and it’s great for this.
Thanks for your efforts to better show this work. It is SOOO welcomed.
One point I would like to make is- do not use the harness connector screw to pull it into place. The threads inside are plastic and you can easily strip them. Instead, push it in as far as possible then snug it up tight with the screw. Perhaps someone could give the torque measurement. But I was advised wrong and stripped mine then I had to redo the job a few months later including another conductor plate..
03-11-2013, 07:41 PM
