Rough Low Idle and No Throttle Reaponse
Rough Low Idle and No Throttle Reaponse
2000 clk 430
I started the car once dies out, start it another time it stays on but idles very low. I press on the gas floor it and dies out, I start it back up slowly accelerate and there is no response, put it in drive starts to roll in idle and dies out, when i have it in drive and hold the brake down once in a while the rpms will jump to 2500. Here is a pic of the codes it pulled up, anyone have this issue before. I'm guessing maybe the throttle position sensor but would that make it idle so rough?
I started the car once dies out, start it another time it stays on but idles very low. I press on the gas floor it and dies out, I start it back up slowly accelerate and there is no response, put it in drive starts to roll in idle and dies out, when i have it in drive and hold the brake down once in a while the rpms will jump to 2500. Here is a pic of the codes it pulled up, anyone have this issue before. I'm guessing maybe the throttle position sensor but would that make it idle so rough?
Sometimes the throttle valve gets gummed up with gasoline additives and dirt.
Buy some spray throttle body cleaner and give the throttle body a good cleaning. Move the butterfly manually with your finger (car off) and spray behind and all around the throttle butterfly.
Buy some spray throttle body cleaner and give the throttle body a good cleaning. Move the butterfly manually with your finger (car off) and spray behind and all around the throttle butterfly.
MBWorld Fanatic!




Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
Best thing is to first try unplugging the MAF and see if your car idles better, however this may or may not work depending on how much the car has adapted itself to run in this way, if you can get another MAF to try thats the best way to go. The MAFS are getting chepaer now as many cars use them compared to years ago. However if you do find your MAF is faulty and decide to buy a new one. PLEASE DONT GET a cheap one of ebay they will fail, you need the genuine BOSCH! IF your on a budget then get a second hand BOSCH that you know works.!
Yes, my first part I would have checked would be the MAF, it may not through a code but if it has dirt on it or oil then you will get this sympton, i.e, the revs can climb slowly, no response, no power.
Best thing is to first try unplugging the MAF and see if your car idles better, however this may or may not work depending on how much the car has adapted itself to run in this way, if you can get another MAF to try thats the best way to go. The MAFS are getting chepaer now as many cars use them compared to years ago. However if you do find your MAF is faulty and decide to buy a new one. PLEASE DONT GET a cheap one of ebay they will fail, you need the genuine BOSCH! IF your on a budget then get a second hand BOSCH that you know works.!
Best thing is to first try unplugging the MAF and see if your car idles better, however this may or may not work depending on how much the car has adapted itself to run in this way, if you can get another MAF to try thats the best way to go. The MAFS are getting chepaer now as many cars use them compared to years ago. However if you do find your MAF is faulty and decide to buy a new one. PLEASE DONT GET a cheap one of ebay they will fail, you need the genuine BOSCH! IF your on a budget then get a second hand BOSCH that you know works.!
so what you're saying when the MAF is bad it can cause the throttle body to adapt itself and it will do that and when I hit the gas pedal it will not get any response?
Dealer diagnosed my rough idle as bad cats, but I did a lot of research and readings and I don't believe that is the issue for me. read the recent thread. It could be possible that your cats are clogged since you get no acceleration.
I think the symptoms of the MAF failure include codes / lights, and loss of power through the range, not lack of any power at all.
I would recommend getting your engine adaptations reset by computer. This helped my issue but came back after a couple weeks. It has slowly gotten better since I put on the new Bosch MAF, but not 100% yet, and I have not reset the computer adaptations again yet. They seem to take at least a couple weeks of daily driving / commute to align.
I think the symptoms of the MAF failure include codes / lights, and loss of power through the range, not lack of any power at all.
I would recommend getting your engine adaptations reset by computer. This helped my issue but came back after a couple weeks. It has slowly gotten better since I put on the new Bosch MAF, but not 100% yet, and I have not reset the computer adaptations again yet. They seem to take at least a couple weeks of daily driving / commute to align.
Dealer diagnosed my rough idle as bad cats, but I did a lot of research and readings and I don't believe that is the issue for me. read the recent thread. It could be possible that your cats are clogged since you get no acceleration.
I think the symptoms of the MAF failure include codes / lights, and loss of power through the range, not lack of any power at all.
I would recommend getting your engine adaptations reset by computer. This helped my issue but came back after a couple weeks. It has slowly gotten better since I put on the new Bosch MAF, but not 100% yet, and I have not reset the computer adaptations again yet. They seem to take at least a couple weeks of daily driving / commute to align.
I think the symptoms of the MAF failure include codes / lights, and loss of power through the range, not lack of any power at all.
I would recommend getting your engine adaptations reset by computer. This helped my issue but came back after a couple weeks. It has slowly gotten better since I put on the new Bosch MAF, but not 100% yet, and I have not reset the computer adaptations again yet. They seem to take at least a couple weeks of daily driving / commute to align.
I hope I can plug the new mass airflow sensor and it will adapt itself and idle normally so I can drive it and let it adapt it self further...not sure if such thing is possible or do I have to get it done with the DAS computer.
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I would say the supercharger changes everything, but if you can afford that, then thrown in a MAF for $150, it can't hurt. Like I said, it seems to take quite a bit of driving for the car to adapt, so you may want to get someone with the right computer stuff to reset your engine adaptations.
As far as I know, the throttle cable is not directly linked, but only a cable to an electronic sensor, and the TB should be moved by electronic actuators (drive by wire), but I have not taken one off before on this car. As I was playing with the CarSoft software I cleared my engine adaptations and found that the pedal did nothing at all (freaking out), but then I re-loaded the program to the computer and everything was back to normal with clear adaptations. Is it possible that your throttle sensor or programming is bad? Does anything happen when you press the pedal?
As far as I know, the throttle cable is not directly linked, but only a cable to an electronic sensor, and the TB should be moved by electronic actuators (drive by wire), but I have not taken one off before on this car. As I was playing with the CarSoft software I cleared my engine adaptations and found that the pedal did nothing at all (freaking out), but then I re-loaded the program to the computer and everything was back to normal with clear adaptations. Is it possible that your throttle sensor or programming is bad? Does anything happen when you press the pedal?
MBWorld Fanatic!




Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
I tried unplugging the mass airflow the car wouldnt run at all. When I plugged the new throttle bodies in and turned the ignition on the butterfly would only open about 25% wouldnt open 90degrees.
so what you're saying when the MAF is bad it can cause the throttle body to adapt itself and it will do that and when I hit the gas pedal it will not get any response?
so what you're saying when the MAF is bad it can cause the throttle body to adapt itself and it will do that and when I hit the gas pedal it will not get any response?
IF the MAF is bad and the throttle body is gunked up then when you dis-connect the MAF sometimes it wont allow the car to idle at all.
As I mentioned just try another MAF first and see, there must be someone who can lend you one, you dont need to fit the MAF just hold it in your hand will do. This way you rule the MAF out and can focus on other parts.
The throttle body butterfly valve over time can get a build up of gunk around the butterfly flap. Your engine management will adapt to this build up and when you clean the throttle body the car has to re-learn. However this does not usually take that long and the car just needs to be driven.
IF the MAF is bad and the throttle body is gunked up then when you dis-connect the MAF sometimes it wont allow the car to idle at all.
As I mentioned just try another MAF first and see, there must be someone who can lend you one, you dont need to fit the MAF just hold it in your hand will do. This way you rule the MAF out and can focus on other parts.
IF the MAF is bad and the throttle body is gunked up then when you dis-connect the MAF sometimes it wont allow the car to idle at all.
As I mentioned just try another MAF first and see, there must be someone who can lend you one, you dont need to fit the MAF just hold it in your hand will do. This way you rule the MAF out and can focus on other parts.
I've had this issue twice once on my 320 and once on my 55.
On the 320 the low idle and rough idle were due to a bad battery, yes if the battery is not up to par it will caused bad and rough idle.
On the 55 it was due to a loose ground connection by the ECU box where the grounds attach to te body of the car via the 10mm bolt. Also it can be caused by a bad engine harness or throttle position sensor. Also check behinds the throttle body where it attaches to the intake manifold and make sure the rubber seal ring is there and that its not dried up and destroyed. You can but that from the dealer for a few dollars.
On the 320 the low idle and rough idle were due to a bad battery, yes if the battery is not up to par it will caused bad and rough idle.
On the 55 it was due to a loose ground connection by the ECU box where the grounds attach to te body of the car via the 10mm bolt. Also it can be caused by a bad engine harness or throttle position sensor. Also check behinds the throttle body where it attaches to the intake manifold and make sure the rubber seal ring is there and that its not dried up and destroyed. You can but that from the dealer for a few dollars.
I've had this issue twice once on my 320 and once on my 55.
On the 320 the low idle and rough idle were due to a bad battery, yes if the battery is not up to par it will caused bad and rough idle.
On the 55 it was due to a loose ground connection by the ECU box where the grounds attach to te body of the car via the 10mm bolt. Also it can be caused by a bad engine harness or throttle position sensor. Also check behinds the throttle body where it attaches to the intake manifold and make sure the rubber seal ring is there and that its not dried up and destroyed. You can but that from the dealer for a few dollars.
On the 320 the low idle and rough idle were due to a bad battery, yes if the battery is not up to par it will caused bad and rough idle.
On the 55 it was due to a loose ground connection by the ECU box where the grounds attach to te body of the car via the 10mm bolt. Also it can be caused by a bad engine harness or throttle position sensor. Also check behinds the throttle body where it attaches to the intake manifold and make sure the rubber seal ring is there and that its not dried up and destroyed. You can but that from the dealer for a few dollars.




