A/C Probelm - 2 Error Codes
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 8
02' CLK 430
A/C Probelm - 2 Error Codes
So I got back from 3 months in Europe the other day and went to start my 2002 CLK 430 Coupe that has been sitting in my garage. My mom has been starting it weekly while I've been gone and running it for 15 minutes or so just to keep the cobwebs out.
I went for a drive today and noticed my Air Conditioning doesn't blow cold. I think it turns itself on and no cold air is coming out. I ran the A/C diagnostic test and came back with 2 error codes and the following numbers.
Some background. It was hot yesterday. All values in celsius. It was probably 35 celcius. I drove the car for 15 minutes and parked in my cool underground parking stall to perform the test. I have a hissing sounds cycling on and off from behind my center vents (clue?). As you can see from the value of temp sensor 2 that the sensor is busted. No way it was 20 degrees by the bumper. Although i was under the impression this sensor had been broken for a while even while the A/C worked before.
Can anyone help me out? Am i just low on Freon? Barometric pressure seems low...
AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE CODES
(38) 01 The in-car temperature sensor.
(20) 02 The bumper temperature sensor. (im pretty sure this sensor is faulty)
(38) 03 The temperature of the left side heater core.
(38) 04 The temperature of the right side heater core.
(35) 05 The temperature at the evaporator sensor.
(83) 06 The engine coolant temperature.
(10) 07 The barometric pressure of the Freon.
(44) 08 The Freon temperature.
ERRORS:
Eb1227
Eb1416
EFF
Thanks in advance. Cheers,
KRis
I went for a drive today and noticed my Air Conditioning doesn't blow cold. I think it turns itself on and no cold air is coming out. I ran the A/C diagnostic test and came back with 2 error codes and the following numbers.
Some background. It was hot yesterday. All values in celsius. It was probably 35 celcius. I drove the car for 15 minutes and parked in my cool underground parking stall to perform the test. I have a hissing sounds cycling on and off from behind my center vents (clue?). As you can see from the value of temp sensor 2 that the sensor is busted. No way it was 20 degrees by the bumper. Although i was under the impression this sensor had been broken for a while even while the A/C worked before.
Can anyone help me out? Am i just low on Freon? Barometric pressure seems low...
AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE CODES
(38) 01 The in-car temperature sensor.
(20) 02 The bumper temperature sensor. (im pretty sure this sensor is faulty)
(38) 03 The temperature of the left side heater core.
(38) 04 The temperature of the right side heater core.
(35) 05 The temperature at the evaporator sensor.
(83) 06 The engine coolant temperature.
(10) 07 The barometric pressure of the Freon.
(44) 08 The Freon temperature.
ERRORS:
Eb1227
Eb1416
EFF
Thanks in advance. Cheers,
KRis
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: upper west side, manhattan, new york
1999 CLK 320 Coupe
I know quite a bit about this after dealing with multiple issues that I only just got repaired after a year, but would you mind translating those temp values into F so I don't have to?
I had a faulty evaporator temperature sensor (I knew mine was bad when it reported an impossibly high temperature), and I had a separate issue of a freon leak at the compressor. Dye was put in the system and it was a dead giveaway as to the leak.
I had a faulty evaporator temperature sensor (I knew mine was bad when it reported an impossibly high temperature), and I had a separate issue of a freon leak at the compressor. Dye was put in the system and it was a dead giveaway as to the leak.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 8
02' CLK 430
I know quite a bit about this after dealing with multiple issues that I only just got repaired after a year, but would you mind translating those temp values into F so I don't have to?
I had a faulty evaporator temperature sensor (I knew mine was bad when it reported an impossibly high temperature), and I had a separate issue of a freon leak at the compressor. Dye was put in the system and it was a dead giveaway as to the leak.
I had a faulty evaporator temperature sensor (I knew mine was bad when it reported an impossibly high temperature), and I had a separate issue of a freon leak at the compressor. Dye was put in the system and it was a dead giveaway as to the leak.
(100.4) 01 The in-car temperature sensor.
(68) 02 The bumper temperature sensor. (im pretty sure this sensor is faulty)
(100.4) 03 The temperature of the left side heater core.
(100.4) 04 The temperature of the right side heater core.
(95) 05 The temperature at the evaporator sensor.
(181.4) 06 The engine coolant temperature.
(10) 07 The barometric pressure of the Freon.
(111.2) 08 The Freon temperature.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 100
From: Florida
2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Those readings look fine,
You might start checking fuses, AC fuses are in the drivers under hood box.
Have you pulled hard codes from the CCU (climate control unit) yet?
#07 Barometric sensor reading? Barometers are for atmospheric humidity vs temp. Emplathy is an outside air barometric reading with coupled temp.
#7 might be a low pressure reading from inside the system, no baro, or emp.
Might be easy to hang some gages on the system to confirm readings.
Gator
You might start checking fuses, AC fuses are in the drivers under hood box.
Have you pulled hard codes from the CCU (climate control unit) yet?
#07 Barometric sensor reading? Barometers are for atmospheric humidity vs temp. Emplathy is an outside air barometric reading with coupled temp.
#7 might be a low pressure reading from inside the system, no baro, or emp.
Might be easy to hang some gages on the system to confirm readings.
Gator
Last edited by GatorMB; Jul 15, 2013 at 10:07 PM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 100
From: Florida
2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
The 1227 is outside temp sensor malfunction, I hear they come unplugged easily
The 1446 is coolant circulation pump circuit, on older 124, 207 chassis - this pump or the mono valve would smoke the CCU.
Try clearing these first, need the procedure?
Gator
The 1446 is coolant circulation pump circuit, on older 124, 207 chassis - this pump or the mono valve would smoke the CCU.
Try clearing these first, need the procedure?
Gator
Last edited by GatorMB; Jul 16, 2013 at 09:13 PM. Reason: added content
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 100
From: Florida
2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
This is borrowed as shared information,
Hope it helps some,
Gator
Hi - the whole box of tricks is a bit of a mystery to me really.
stim is right - there is possibly more that can be done. (I don't have an ECbutton on my W209, so I don't think I can do this diagnostic error test. [IMG]file:///C:/Users/devry/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
Here are the details from my notes:
Part 2 — Collect Trouble Codes
Now that we have all the sensor values, let’s check the computer formalfunction codes. Read this carefully, because you have a 20 second windowafter switching on the ignition to load the trouble code display mode.
Ignition must be switched on. 20 second timer starts.
Increase the left side temperature (left red arrow) until left side says “HI.”
Decrease the right side temperature (right cold arrow) until right side says“LO.”
If your 20 seconds passed, switch off the ignition and switch it back on.
Your HI/LO settings will be preset. Timer restarts.
Press and hold the “EC” and “REST” buttons simultaneously for at least fiveseconds.
The screen will go blank.
Load the first code by pressing the right side “AUTO” button.
If you have any error codes in memory, the screen should look like the figureon the right. The ‘E’ stands for “error.” In this case, we have error codeB1234.
Write down each error code. To cycle through the codes, press the right side“AUTO” button.
When you finish, press the “REST” button to exit.
Error Codes:
Error B1226 - In-car Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1227 - Outside Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1228 - Left Heater Core Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1229 - Right Heater Core Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1230 - Evaporator Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1231 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1232 - Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Malfunction
Error B1233 - Refrigerant Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1234 - Sun Sensor Malfunction
Error B1235 - Emissions Sensor Malfunction
Error B1241 - Refrigerant Low
Error B1416 - Coolant Circulation Pump Malfunction
Error B1417 - Left Duovalve Malfunction
Error B1418 - Right Duovalve Malfunction
Hope it helps some,
Gator
Hi - the whole box of tricks is a bit of a mystery to me really.
stim is right - there is possibly more that can be done. (I don't have an ECbutton on my W209, so I don't think I can do this diagnostic error test. [IMG]file:///C:/Users/devry/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
Here are the details from my notes:
Part 2 — Collect Trouble Codes
Now that we have all the sensor values, let’s check the computer formalfunction codes. Read this carefully, because you have a 20 second windowafter switching on the ignition to load the trouble code display mode.
Ignition must be switched on. 20 second timer starts.
Increase the left side temperature (left red arrow) until left side says “HI.”
Decrease the right side temperature (right cold arrow) until right side says“LO.”
If your 20 seconds passed, switch off the ignition and switch it back on.
Your HI/LO settings will be preset. Timer restarts.
Press and hold the “EC” and “REST” buttons simultaneously for at least fiveseconds.
The screen will go blank.
Load the first code by pressing the right side “AUTO” button.
If you have any error codes in memory, the screen should look like the figureon the right. The ‘E’ stands for “error.” In this case, we have error codeB1234.
Write down each error code. To cycle through the codes, press the right side“AUTO” button.
When you finish, press the “REST” button to exit.
Error Codes:
Error B1226 - In-car Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1227 - Outside Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1228 - Left Heater Core Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1229 - Right Heater Core Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1230 - Evaporator Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1231 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1232 - Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Malfunction
Error B1233 - Refrigerant Temperature Sensor Malfunction
Error B1234 - Sun Sensor Malfunction
Error B1235 - Emissions Sensor Malfunction
Error B1241 - Refrigerant Low
Error B1416 - Coolant Circulation Pump Malfunction
Error B1417 - Left Duovalve Malfunction
Error B1418 - Right Duovalve Malfunction
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 100
From: Florida
2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Air Conditioning Codes and Recharge Info - Clearing Codes
On my last road trip my AC compressor shut down (2000 W210 – E55) and the EC light became stuck in the on position. I searched many threads and even spoke to my local Indy Benz tech who told me I would have to bring the car to a MB tech who can clear the codes. Many posts I found confirmed this, saying you can’t clear the codes without hooking up to the DAS/STAR system. This in fact is NOT true.
After reading my codes I realized the system shut off the compressor due to low refrigerant pressure. When refrigerant pressure reaches about 8-7 bar or lower the compressor automatically shuts itself down, therefore making it impossible to recharge since the compressor will not pull in 134a. Once I cleared codes (easily), I was able to hook up a can of 134a to the low side line and charge the system successfully. If you have the same problem and no leaks (or very slow) you should be able to rectify this with a $30 can of 134a and some simple button pushing. The following menus should help you diagnose what is wrong with your system. I am not a MB tech nor do I profess to be one so I need to throw in the disclaimer – proceed with caution and at your own risk. I have made every attempt to compile clear and accurate info to help anyone else out that has gone through the same issue I have or other AC issues.
RETRIEVE DATA:
Turn on ignition (run car)
Put both sides Temp settings at 72
Push and hold “REST†button till you get a 1 in the left side
Push the left “AUTO†button to scroll forward and right auto button to scroll back.
Let the car run 3 minutes before pulling data to ensure more accurate data
For AC diagnosis you only need to be concerned about codes 1 through 8
Code 1 = Inside Temp
Code 2 = Outside Temp
Code 3 = Left Core Temp
Code 4 = Right Core Temp
Code 6 = Coolant Temp
Code 7 = Refrigerant Pressure (This is the important one)
Code 8 = Refrigerant Temp
PULLING FAULT CODES
Switch ignition on
Set left AC/heater temperature control to HI
Set right AC/heater temperature to LO
Depress REST and EC switches simultaneously within 20 seconds of turning ignition on
Hold REST and EC switches for more than 5 seconds
Air recirculation lamp flashes
Depress right AUTO switch repeatedly. Note trouble codes
FF is not a code
What the codes mean:
003 B1226 In-car temperature sensor with blower
005 B1228 Heater output temperature sensor
006 B1229 " " "
007 B1230 AC evaporator temperature sensor
008 B1231 Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
009 B1232 AC refrigerant pressure sensor
010 B1233 AC refrigerant temperature sensor
011 B1234 AC sunlight sensor
012 B1235 Heater intake air purity sensor
013 B1241 AC refrig pressure sensor, AC temp pressure sensor refrigerant level
014 B1416 Engine coolant pump motor
019 B1417 Engine coolant heater regulator valve LH
020 B1418 " " RH
021 B1419 AC compressor clutch
022 B1420 Idle speed increase
023 B1421 Engine coolant blower motor control module
024 B1422 Serial interface K1
025 B1423 AC heater valve block
026 B1424 AC heater air intake filter actuator
027 B1425 " "
029 B1429 Serial interface K2
RESETTING FAULT CODES:
In fault code mode press both “AUTO†switches simultaneously for more than 5 seconds (after last trouble code is displayed)
Once codes are cleared you will see display change to "d and FF"
Switch ignition OFF – All Codes are erased
REFILLING SYSTEM:
Purchase a larger refill can of 134a with a gauge on it so you can read the low side pressure – helps as a guide to filling the system to the correct level. The instructions on the can will tell you what pressure to fill based on the ambient temp. You can find this refill can at any Walmart/Target/Auto Store for $20-$30. Make sure you purge the can before you fill:
Shake can
Squirt a very small amount of refrigerant to purge air out of the hose – you don’t want to introduce any air to your system.
Start car
Connect to low side port (drivers side left of engine mid bay with plastic black cap on it - unscrew)
Turn off EC button (light goes out and compressor goes on)
Read the PSI gauge on the can filler (should be low) around 20 psi or less
Pull trigger while gradually shaking the can and holding it upside down until it reaches instructed pressure depending on Ambient temp.
Once system is recharged it should be blowing cold air
Follow up by reading Code 7 – mine was originally 7 bar and became 17 bar after recharge. Also make note of the recharged bar pressure(17) – you can periodically check code 7 to make sure the system is holding the refrigerant pressure – if it decreases over time you have a slow leak and need to address it.
Hope this helps and good luck!
__________________
Borrowed posting information for your eyes only.
Gator
On my last road trip my AC compressor shut down (2000 W210 – E55) and the EC light became stuck in the on position. I searched many threads and even spoke to my local Indy Benz tech who told me I would have to bring the car to a MB tech who can clear the codes. Many posts I found confirmed this, saying you can’t clear the codes without hooking up to the DAS/STAR system. This in fact is NOT true.
After reading my codes I realized the system shut off the compressor due to low refrigerant pressure. When refrigerant pressure reaches about 8-7 bar or lower the compressor automatically shuts itself down, therefore making it impossible to recharge since the compressor will not pull in 134a. Once I cleared codes (easily), I was able to hook up a can of 134a to the low side line and charge the system successfully. If you have the same problem and no leaks (or very slow) you should be able to rectify this with a $30 can of 134a and some simple button pushing. The following menus should help you diagnose what is wrong with your system. I am not a MB tech nor do I profess to be one so I need to throw in the disclaimer – proceed with caution and at your own risk. I have made every attempt to compile clear and accurate info to help anyone else out that has gone through the same issue I have or other AC issues.
RETRIEVE DATA:
Turn on ignition (run car)
Put both sides Temp settings at 72
Push and hold “REST†button till you get a 1 in the left side
Push the left “AUTO†button to scroll forward and right auto button to scroll back.
Let the car run 3 minutes before pulling data to ensure more accurate data
For AC diagnosis you only need to be concerned about codes 1 through 8
Code 1 = Inside Temp
Code 2 = Outside Temp
Code 3 = Left Core Temp
Code 4 = Right Core Temp
Code 6 = Coolant Temp
Code 7 = Refrigerant Pressure (This is the important one)
Code 8 = Refrigerant Temp
PULLING FAULT CODES
Switch ignition on
Set left AC/heater temperature control to HI
Set right AC/heater temperature to LO
Depress REST and EC switches simultaneously within 20 seconds of turning ignition on
Hold REST and EC switches for more than 5 seconds
Air recirculation lamp flashes
Depress right AUTO switch repeatedly. Note trouble codes
FF is not a code
What the codes mean:
003 B1226 In-car temperature sensor with blower
005 B1228 Heater output temperature sensor
006 B1229 " " "
007 B1230 AC evaporator temperature sensor
008 B1231 Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
009 B1232 AC refrigerant pressure sensor
010 B1233 AC refrigerant temperature sensor
011 B1234 AC sunlight sensor
012 B1235 Heater intake air purity sensor
013 B1241 AC refrig pressure sensor, AC temp pressure sensor refrigerant level
014 B1416 Engine coolant pump motor
019 B1417 Engine coolant heater regulator valve LH
020 B1418 " " RH
021 B1419 AC compressor clutch
022 B1420 Idle speed increase
023 B1421 Engine coolant blower motor control module
024 B1422 Serial interface K1
025 B1423 AC heater valve block
026 B1424 AC heater air intake filter actuator
027 B1425 " "
029 B1429 Serial interface K2
RESETTING FAULT CODES:
In fault code mode press both “AUTO†switches simultaneously for more than 5 seconds (after last trouble code is displayed)
Once codes are cleared you will see display change to "d and FF"
Switch ignition OFF – All Codes are erased
REFILLING SYSTEM:
Purchase a larger refill can of 134a with a gauge on it so you can read the low side pressure – helps as a guide to filling the system to the correct level. The instructions on the can will tell you what pressure to fill based on the ambient temp. You can find this refill can at any Walmart/Target/Auto Store for $20-$30. Make sure you purge the can before you fill:
Shake can
Squirt a very small amount of refrigerant to purge air out of the hose – you don’t want to introduce any air to your system.
Start car
Connect to low side port (drivers side left of engine mid bay with plastic black cap on it - unscrew)
Turn off EC button (light goes out and compressor goes on)
Read the PSI gauge on the can filler (should be low) around 20 psi or less
Pull trigger while gradually shaking the can and holding it upside down until it reaches instructed pressure depending on Ambient temp.
Once system is recharged it should be blowing cold air
Follow up by reading Code 7 – mine was originally 7 bar and became 17 bar after recharge. Also make note of the recharged bar pressure(17) – you can periodically check code 7 to make sure the system is holding the refrigerant pressure – if it decreases over time you have a slow leak and need to address it.
Hope this helps and good luck!
__________________
Borrowed posting information for your eyes only.
Gator
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Erie
2002 CLK55 AMG 2002 c230k 02 Triumph America 1992 300e
Do the w208's have all the codes like:
21 - rpms,
22 - speed
23 - Diagnostic pin voltage
24 - battery voltage
and on and on
I guess I will just have to go and check this out. Just wish it wasn't 100 degrees
The sad part is people ask my WHY did you get your c230k w/ cloth seats.... I just wish they didn't have that ****ty pattern....
21 - rpms,
22 - speed
23 - Diagnostic pin voltage
24 - battery voltage
and on and on
I guess I will just have to go and check this out. Just wish it wasn't 100 degrees
The sad part is people ask my WHY did you get your c230k w/ cloth seats.... I just wish they didn't have that ****ty pattern....
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 8
02' CLK 430
Thanks for all the info!
Looks like the coolant circulation pump is failed. Anyone have any info about this one? I've searched but it seems that not many people get this error...
KRis
Looks like the coolant circulation pump is failed. Anyone have any info about this one? I've searched but it seems that not many people get this error...
KRis
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 737
Likes: 38
From: Fort Worth, TX
2019 CLS450/ 2002 CLK55
Try it. Its only $18 bucks if it doesnt work.
My 2 cents. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 8
02' CLK 430
I had this exact fault, but I checked my pump out and it worked. After doing a lot of work I ended up throwing a can of r44 in and I was good to go after reset. I never found a leak or anything. It was just like you said. Same codes, everything.
Try it. Its only $18 bucks if it doesnt work.
My 2 cents. Good luck.
Try it. Its only $18 bucks if it doesnt work.
My 2 cents. Good luck.
KRis.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 8
02' CLK 430
BTW this thread contains a lot of useful info posted by GatorMB (props!) on A/C diagnosis. May want to add something to the DIY.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
01 clk55 amg
B1234 b1235
I am working on a 2001 CLK 55 AMG the air conditioning climate control unit is showing b1234 and 1235 Sun sensor and emissions control sensor I can't find either one of these sensors online or the location on the car if anyone could help me out and give me an idea what I'm looking for and where I might be looking at I would appreciate it
Junior Member
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 54
Likes: 5
2004 W211 e55 amg / 2003 w163 ml500
W163 ml500 blows hot air ( fixed )
One day while driving with 60 seconds I was getting only hot air . First thing I did was plug in my icarsoft code reader & according to it I had two codes B1204/1206 .so i took the vehicle in to someone I know who manages all the jiffy lubes in my area to test for leaks ( none ) & recharged it but after the recharge it did not fix my issue & they couldn’t pinpoint it exactly so I was not charged any money , so I went to another shop for second opinion & peace of mind and paid them for a diagnostic fee and they said i had a bad AC expansion valve & AC compressor. So I went & bought them myself from autozone & it took me 2 hours to replace both parts in my driveway . Then drove it back to jiffy lube for a full vac test & recharge BOOM 💥 better than ever & the Air was cool & crisp ⛄️ . I wish I knew what to look for when diagnosing a bad ac compressor or valve so I can save myself some coin next time But I can say I no longer have that awful noise that sounded like a bad power steering pump whine / grinding . Turns out it was definitely the bad AC compressor & maybe even the clutch on it because that ulgy noise it gone ! . ( still have codes B1204/1206 & it seems the rear air vents are as crisp at the front … i usually drive with the rear Turned off but after testing the values of the vents with my Icarsoft i noticed the air was not crisp . so looking into that still .. other then that all front vents are super cold 🙏
Total cost $917
- Vac leak test / full Recharge $135
- diagnostic $209
- denso compressor $501
- four season’s Expansion valve $72
Total cost $917
- Vac leak test / full Recharge $135
- diagnostic $209
- denso compressor $501
- four season’s Expansion valve $72
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
CLK320
AC Question
Thanks for the informative thread here, here is what I am experiencing.
AC was working fine yesterday, top up, cloudy but hot day. Today, not as cold air blowing at all for my 45 min commute. Pulled the following codes.
EB1416 Engine Coolant Pump
EB1419 AC Compressor Clutch
EB1422 Serial K1
In my mind I was thinking compressor, so when I got to work, with AC on LO, I popped the hood. The clutch was stationary, then engaged for a few revolutions, then stopped, started again for a couple of revolutions, stopped, you get the point.
My first line of thinking is low freon, or low enough to start the cascade of these error codes so it would be worth topping up to see. Outside of that, maybe a clutch replacement and then god forbid the whole compressor. The car has not been driven much in years, and I have been driving everyday for the last 2 weeks, so working out all the bugs and finding all the new ones.
Thanks for the insight.
AC was working fine yesterday, top up, cloudy but hot day. Today, not as cold air blowing at all for my 45 min commute. Pulled the following codes.
EB1416 Engine Coolant Pump
EB1419 AC Compressor Clutch
EB1422 Serial K1
In my mind I was thinking compressor, so when I got to work, with AC on LO, I popped the hood. The clutch was stationary, then engaged for a few revolutions, then stopped, started again for a couple of revolutions, stopped, you get the point.
My first line of thinking is low freon, or low enough to start the cascade of these error codes so it would be worth topping up to see. Outside of that, maybe a clutch replacement and then god forbid the whole compressor. The car has not been driven much in years, and I have been driving everyday for the last 2 weeks, so working out all the bugs and finding all the new ones.
Thanks for the insight.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: Eureka Springs
2017 S550 A217,2006 SL500,2002 CLK430
thank you GatorMB for the incredible information about diagnosis of the W208 A/C issues. So much information that I have determined that the repair shop has me chasing my tail. They advised a 38 pin connector and access to the “MB System” and to gave me steps similar to the ones you mentioned. Not the same and no details. With yours I started understanding and then I started scratching my head. Now it’s working and the #7 reading went from a 7 to a 14. I’m not sure if it will continue to work. Time will tell. Just wanted share with you my gratitude for your time and knowledge.
Last edited by bng1959; Sep 16, 2025 at 11:37 AM.
