What should i be looking out for?
Is high mileage okay (100k+)?
I dont see a "KNOWN ISSUES" Thread..
Any Help would be appreciated.

 

100K is nothing on a well maintained Mercedes. I know people with double that on a 208. That said, if I were you, I'm limit my search to 2001/2002 cars. They have ME 2.8. The early cars have ME 2.0. Among other things, on a ME 2.8 equipped 430 that means a CLK55-sized throttle body, upgraded injectors, and more transmission upgrades. On the non-powerplant front, although the gauge cluster layout appears similar the 2001/2002 cars have an additional feature (bonus points to the first person who names it). Do the windows drop when you open the door on a 2000 cab? They do on a 2001/2002 - cab and coupe.


The issues that come to mind are mainly normal wear items:

• The brake switch.
• Flex discs
• Some people say their valve covers leak. (easy DIY fix)
• The $2 transmission o-ring can leak - that is not normal wear and tear.
• The rear diff seals - another 1-time fix.
• The MAF will need replacing at some point
• The motor mounts are normal wear and due at about 100K
• The clock pixels will go out. People tell me that's an easy fix, but I've only successful fixed the temperature side.
• Seat motors eventually wear out.
• The steering damper.
• Voltage regulator.

Everything listed is inexpensive (except the transmission o-ring if ignored). You may want to pay for a PPI. If not, you can do your own.

 

I've had my 2001 cabrio, since new, that just turned 83,000 miles and has been pretty much problem free.

Two commonly reported problems, that I needed to repair recently, were the crankshaft position sensor (a.k.a. cps) and AC/Heater blower regulator (both under $100 and DIY). BTW, if you're not handy, local dealer quoted around $500 for each repair.

Additionally, the idler pulley (e.g. single bearing) frequently fails as well. In addition to causing an inconvenient and expensive roadside breakdown, there is often some collateral damage upon failure.

As preventive maintenance, I just ordered a new idler pulley, serpentine belt and a newer/redesigned belt tensioner (DIY, about $150).

Although the owners manual states that the factory automatic transmission fluid is good for the life life of the car, that is not true. Now they suggest a transmission service every 39,000 miles.

Lastly, the power roof mechanism is extremely complex (e.g. controller, a dozen or more limit/position switches, hydraulic pump, 9 hydraulic cylinders/locks, relay, pair of cables etc.) and can be somewhat difficult and expensive to repair. Based on the # of threads here, on this topic, sooner or later, expect a failure.

 

thanks. That was very helpful information.

 

I have a 2003 CLK430 Cab that is at 108k miles. When I bought it last december, it had ~ 90k miles. Clean carfax. Plenty of dealer logs for maintenance. Previous company car.

Here are the current issues in no particular order:

- Seat and interior squeaks. I tried all the solutions posted on this forum. The squeaking is now mostly gone with removal of the plastic seat side panels.

- plastic trim around the rearview mirror broken. This caused the rearview mirror to pop off and dangle dangerously near my face while driving. No convenient connector to unplug the mirror, so you have to hold it with one hand while driving home.

- convertible top pump/pistons/computer ... see the multitude of threads related to convertible top woes.

- unable to align. The shop says the car needs a camber kit and new shocks. The shocks I understand (although the car drives just fine)...but a camber kit? It's not lowered.

- LCD temp and time panels don't work - lots of other threads on this.

- Rear window 'surround' broken. Generally cheap plastic on a lot of the trim which gets brittle over time and fractures.

- strange 'pop' sound going over uneven surfaces. Again, it's a high mileage car but I've read this is often attributed to a frame brace under the car.

- passenger door handle plastic piece randomly comes off when used. again, brittle cheap plastic.

- clackety-clack sound from the engine at idle. Particularly noticible in garages or next to a wall (in drive through for example) and it sounds ..cheap.

Already repaired issues:

- throttle sensor was bad causing the car to hit 'limp home' mode if the throttle was floored.

- fogged headlamps. replaced with an aftermarket set.

- - -
all that said, the car drives wonderfully. I think that part of the issue is that I bought a mercedes expecting mercedes quality throughout. I've been informed that this may be related to the fact mercedes was working in concert with chrysler.

If you are dead set on getting a W208, then by all means...but there are plenty of other used models of convertibles that would probably result in a better experience.

*cue the fanboys who will tell me all the above is somehow my fault and/or normal with any 10-year old car.

 

"... unable to align. The shop says the car needs a camber kit and new shocks. The shocks I understand (although he car drives just fine)...but a camber kit? It's not lowered."

K-MAC manufacture front Camber and Caster and rear Camber and Toe adjuster kits to properly compensate for premature edge tire wear and improve traction. Currently front and rear Toe only adjustment is available OEM on virtually all Mercedes models.