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CLK convertible top problem solving: common electrical and hydraulic system failures

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CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

CLK convertible top problem solving: common electrical and hydraulic system failures

 
Old 10-26-2018, 03:54 PM
  #226  
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Serndipity,
Thank you for all your support. Would not been able to solve this without your help!

I have checked both switches. They seem to have a very similar function, so I don't think that the switch is fauly. Rather that the RB will not retract to te exact position needed.
Pusing hard on the left part of the RB will make it go down 1/4 inch or so, and the switch will get contact. However, the RB will not stay in that position.

I'm trying the simplest solution, wich seems to be to add a little material to the switch:

But another thing, I noticed thet the spring inside the assembly doesn't seem to be compressed. I don't know how the pressure is supposed to be, but this is when the RB is in the bottom position and to me it doesnt sem to be enough to extract the RB quickly. Could it be that the RB can be movable up and down with the hydraulics, without engaging the spring?
.
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Old 10-27-2018, 11:00 PM
  #227  
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2001 CLK320 Cabrio
Originally Posted by Johan_F View Post
Serndipity,
Thank you for all your support. Would not been able to solve this without your help!

I have checked both switches. They seem to have a very similar function, so I don't think that the switch is fauly. Rather that the RB will not retract to te exact position needed.
Pusing hard on the left part of the RB will make it go down 1/4 inch or so, and the switch will get contact. However, the RB will not stay in that position.

I'm trying the simplest solution, wich seems to be to add a little material to the switch:

Johan.......Congratulations and give yourself a pat on the back.

The A208 power roof system has numerous complexities and your troubleshooting, observant ongoing feedback and repair skills were top-notch!

As typical in dealership repairs, the tech reads the STAR diagnostics and then starts replacing parts, without doing the required troubleshooting to determine the specific malfunctioning component.

Long story short, your brother-inlaw already paid $1,500 for a repair that did not solve the problem and would have had to made numerous trips back to the dealership and spent a princely sum of money, changing all of the component possibilities that could cause the rear bow to not release. He did not need a new pump for $8,900 and because MB does not sell individual parts to repair the RB malfunctions, repair is via replacing the entire RB assembly plus labor would have been substantially more.

Had you determined that the retract switch was defective, I could have provided you the part number where a genuine MB replacement could be purchased for 50 EU.

Additionally, everything related to the hydraulics, can be rebuilt as new or better by Top Hydraulics, who has earned numerous forum, dealership and international rave reviews.


https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/...benz-a208-info


But another thing, I noticed thet the spring inside the assembly doesn't seem to be compressed. I don't know how the pressure is supposed to be, but this is when the RB is in the bottom position and to me it doesnt sem to be enough to extract the RB quickly. Could it be that the RB can be movable up and down with the hydraulics, without engaging the spring?

Reference RB assembly description in post #219.

That is most likely why the S83/5 RB retract switch was not being actuated.

When the springs on both sides of the RB assembly are not equally compressed, the synchronization shaft (#30), could have a slight cant (e.g. If the spring on the side opposite the RB retract switch is compressed less than the spring on the opposite side, the cant would be slightly downward, which kept the switch from normally being actuated).

In the event of a crash or critical driving situation, raising the RB is independent of the normal RB operation. Specifically, sensors in the vehicle suspension will tell the N52 controller to activate and unlock (#7) via the Y57/1 crash deployment solenoid, which will release the spring tension and instantaneously raise the RB.

.


Last edited by Serndipity; 10-27-2018 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:49 PM
  #228  
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2002 CLK55 CAB 2011 ML550 2013 GLK350
2002 CLK55 CAB: rear bow lock not releasing (but hearing slightest click)

The car's been sitting since mid-January, battery was close to dead, a bit of moisture in the car. Jumped it, tried to lower the roof but after (a) releasing front bow lock (b) windows went down on their own (c) actuated the console switch and ... nada. The light in the console switch stays solid for a short while then starts flashing. I raised and lowered (several times) the rear headrests to be sure they were fully retracted; still nothing. I'm hearing a slight click from the rear when actuating the console switch, but without an assistant at hand I can't get to the rear to pinpoint where it's clicking (will do that later today). Sounds like the click of a relay. When I first got the car (mid-'15) the top was flaky, would sometimes raise/lower, sometimes not, and I'd isolated it to a relay somewhere in back, I think in the compartment where the top is stowed when down. Replacing the relay corrected the original problem. It sounds like the clicking is coming from that general area.

Next steps?

Cheers,

Mark
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:52 PM
  #229  
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2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Battery reset

Originally Posted by markloch View Post
The car's been sitting since mid-January, battery was close to dead, a bit of moisture in the car. Jumped it, tried to lower the roof but after (a) releasing front bow lock (b) windows went down on their own (c) actuated the console switch and ... nada. The light in the console switch stays solid for a short while then starts flashing. I raised and lowered (several times) the rear headrests to be sure they were fully retracted; still nothing. I'm hearing a slight click from the rear when actuating the console switch, but without an assistant at hand I can't get to the rear to pinpoint where it's clicking (will do that later today). Sounds like the click of a relay. When I first got the car (mid-'15) the top was flaky, would sometimes raise/lower, sometimes not, and I'd isolated it to a relay somewhere in back, I think in the compartment where the top is stowed when down. Replacing the relay corrected the original problem. It sounds like the clicking is coming from that general area.

Next steps?

Cheers,

Mark
Once the battery gets low beyond systems memory settings.
It requires a reset. Especially the windows in the cab. Only relay in the rear is for hydraulic pump.
A loud humming when working. Might be quieter with trim installed.
My cab been sitting for a bit as well we'll see.
If the pump is working a good manual open and close might get the system working again.
Cheers Gator
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