Aric Anderson

Hello everyone, I'm new to the site. I just purchased a 2001 clk 320 with a soft top. Everything works besides the soft top. My buddy helped figure out how to operate by lowering the headrest then the soft top back went up then the rear box opened. We then noticed where the hydraulic fluid leak was. So we closed the soft top. Then replaced the hydraulic cylinder for the rear bow latch with a part from top hydraulics. After replacing the cylinder and add hydraulic fluid. The soft top unlocked the rear of the soft top and raise it to go into the rear bow. Although the rear bow did not open this time. So I close the rear part of the soft top. Now everytime i hit the soft top switch it blinks and will not do anything. Please help

So we have to press the button to lower and raise the rear headrest. When open the soft top, the windows roll down although i dont think the head rest lower on there own (should they???) When i first try to open soft top and the button is blink i have noticed that the headrest button will illuminate.

Serndipity

Go to thread at https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ailures-9.html and read postings 207 through 227, where you'll find lots of documentation and information that will help you diagnose, troubleshoot and repair your malfunctioning power roof.

Aric Anderson

ok now the entire back half of the car is apart. So I'm determined to fix. I have checked the roll bar retracted switch and it tested working. So I dont think its getting hung up there. Then I disconnected the electrical connection to the rear bow lock switch simulating an open circuit. Then the soft top switch will open the rear part of the soft top then it stops and does not open the rear bow. cover After looking it a few times it looks as though the rear bow latch is actually locking and not unlocking. Weird. maybe cause the rear bow lock switch is still disconnected?? Sounds like it hanging up on first on stage 2 to 3 then on stage 4 to 5

this is frustrating cause when we first added hydraulic fluid it seemed like everything would work fine, I dont know if we have air still in the lines??

Aric Anderson

Ok I think the rear bow lock switch is working . When the latch is closed the switch is normally closed and when the latch opens the switch is open. For some reasonnow my trunk lid does not open with keyfob. And for some reason my trunk light has not worked since we began working on this soft top. Although i can take a test light and attach it to ground then attach to light and the test light lights up. So the bulb has a hot just no ground when trunk is open. And bulb looks good. Am I missing ground

Aric Anderson

Serndipity

When the soft top bow is locked, the S84/16 limit switch will be in the closed position, which brings pin 29 on the N52 controller to ground. Note: W7 is vehicle ground terminal point.

You can check this by disconnecting the harness from the controller and measuring the ohms to a vehicle ground point.

When the soft top bow is locked, the harness pin that mates with pin 29 on the controller, should be 0 - 5 ohms and when the soft top bow is unlocked, you should read more than 20K ohms.

Aric Anderson

Aric Anderson

Today my buddy and i had the soft top working properly if we:


DURING OPENING STAGES

Manually unlock case cover and raise case cover after rear soft top raises 90 degrees then soft top will lower into trunk area and case cover will close and lock


DURING CLOSING STAGES

Manually unlock case cover and soft top will raise with interior button then we manually close case cover then soft top will lower on case cover then we have to manually lock rear portion of soft top to case cover

its getting better


ok i will check n52 pinouts

Serndipity

If the controller is not unlocking the case cover in stage 5, make sure that the S84/15 'bow up/down' position switch is activating properly.

The posts I pointed to above only show the required position/limit activation at each stage of roof operation, when opening the roof.

If you need this information, for when closing the roof, it has been posted a number of times in other threads.

Aric Anderson

Aric Anderson

yeah that part looked loose today, i could more it back and forth

Aric Anderson

IT WORKS IT FRIGGING WORKS!!!

I DIDNT REALIZE THAT THE S84/15 IS A PULL OUT SWITCH. I THOUGHT IT WAS A TILT LEVER SWITCH. IT WAS DEFINETLY NOT CONNECTED TO THE CYLINDER. I ZIPTIED THE BASE DOWN THREE TIMES TO THE CYLINDER. THEN PULLED OUT THE HEAT GUN ON LOW HEAT AND MOLDED THE END BACK AROUND THE END OF THE CYLINDER THEN WAITED TO COOL. THEN I LUBED THE PULL OUT SWITCH, (IT PULLS OUT WOW) WITH LITHIUM GREASE. I WORKED THE REAR SOFT TOP UP AND DOWN TO CHECK OPERATION OF SWITCH AND IT PULLS OUT AND BACK IN. THEN LET PRESSURE OFF PUMP TO MANUALLY CLOSE. THEN CUT CAR ON AND IT WORKS IT FRIGGING WORKS.

THANKS KLAUS AT TOP HYDRAULICS, THANKS SERENDITY, THANK YOU MBWORLD. YOU ARE THE GREATEST.