CLK convertible top problem solving: common electrical and hydraulic system failures

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May 1, 2016 | 07:14 PM
  #176  
Thats a lot of wind,
I make my own Belgian Beer but testing the limits requires a lot of patients and time to take the upholstery apart to get to the connections. If you find the breakout box interface then life is easy.
If you post a link to the thread you found it may help others. My top works good except when drinking Belgian Beer. HaHa

Best, Gator
Reply 0
Mar 13, 2017 | 05:43 PM
  #177  
"Top Visit Workshop" message :-\
Hello folks, I have recently become attached to the topics and threads here, it is great to see all the technical acumen and advise from all of you.

I have come across many threads that solve convertible top problems for CLK - eg boot lid closing problem and gas cylinders to hold the switch to close the top and others, however my problem is alittle different.

The top is actually now open, and I receive "top visit workshop" message and fails to close. Last year I had a complete overhaul of the hydraulic system which costed close to a fortune!

Thinking #1:
I thought there would be a problem in the boot partition lid as I have received messages before to close it even though I made sure it was, I tried to tape the switch (small switch left hand top corner on boot partition) and keep it pressed, did not work.

Thinking #2: I read in owners manual how you can reset the top operation by removing and reconnecting the fuse / jumper #28 (side fuse box), did not work.

Thinking #3: I disconnected the battery for some long time hoping it would reset any system faults and then I will be able to operate the top, failed.

Thinking #4: I disconnected the battery, removed the convertible top fuse, connnected the battery after some long time, connected the fuse again, failed.
Ps, During this I switched the car on before reconnecting the fuse, and I had a red warning message - Please release the rollover bar...

Thinking #5: I thought I would try to manually close the top as per the owners manual (removing the panel behind the center top indoor lights then use the allen key placed inside the owners manual case etc..) I could not remove that panel..



Hence, my top is still up and I really appreciate any advise or sharing previous experiences to help me close the top again.

Thanks and regards...
Reply 0
Mar 13, 2017 | 09:29 PM
  #178  
You can close it manually by opening the pressure relief screw at the pump. It will lock down with an allen wrench once it is fully closed.

To make some of the diagnostics easier it is best to find some one with a Star C3/C4.
One can access the microcontroller for the top reset all codes and perform diagnostics while online with the controller. It is time consuming but keeps from having to tear the interior apart to access some of the limit switches.

Star absorbs a lot of technician time which is why it is so expensive to pay for diagnostics..

The pressure bleed screw is housed in a white trumpet looking plastic ring on the pump assembly. A number 2 thin flat blade will loosen it allowing you to manually close the top.

Also research all information and links in post 165

Best, Gator
Reply 1
Mar 14, 2017 | 11:33 AM
  #179  
GatorMB, thank you for writing back, very informative, cheers.

I have learned recently how to manually close the soft top for my and similar cars and I post here to help others who are looking for this
http://benzbits.com/w209/soft_top/ManualClose.wmv
[thanks to Rudeney who offered the link yesterday]

I guess I will try to manually close the top and see if this would reset the switches (hopefully) to avoid costly diagnosis...

Do you think diagnosis usually erase errors and reset everything to normal state? I have recently fixed the whole hydraulic system, not sure if the workshop replaced electronic parts too, but it costed much.

Thanks GatorMB for your effort and time to write back
Reply 0
Mar 19, 2017 | 09:56 PM
  #180  
Quote:

Do you think diagnosis usually erase errors and reset everything to normal state? I have recently fixed the whole hydraulic system, not sure if the workshop replaced electronic parts too, but it costed much.
What I have found when working with STAR is resetting some systems like seat controllers. the set starts to work again but eventually it will fault out again. Once the fault is stored the system locks out the operation of the device hence seats/top/windows/mirrors etc...
The stored hard fault is a strong indication of a malfunctioning part. unlike a CEL which has counterparts allocating a symptom. Hence a bad plug wire causing a O2 sensor code. Get It?

Cheers, Gator
Reply 0
Apr 28, 2017 | 06:58 AM
  #181  
Trunk release switch light always on, soft top won't operate
Hello everyone.
I'm new to this forum, and maybe someone has presented this problem before, but I couldn't find anything when searching the forum.

Last year the light on the trunk release switch on the center console started going on even if the trunk was closed, and that means that I can't get the roof down. The problem came and went a few times and I had the car looked at by a dealership. They replaced a wire and told me that if that didn't help I had to replace the whole trunk lock mechanism. Now the light stays on all the time, and as replacing the lock mechanism is pretty expensive I wonder if someone knows if there is a possibility to bypass/short circuit the trunk sensor/trunk release switch so that I can operate the roof again?

I would be grateful for any help/answers.
Reply 0
Apr 29, 2017 | 04:16 AM
  #182  
Convertible troubles
Hi everybody
I am new to here and after reading a lot of these posts I have realised if I am to fix my convertible Problems it will be through this site. Let me start I bought a 320clk with roof problems, I have topped up the fluids replaced the relay and manually opened and closed the roof.
The roof now when I unlatch it and hold the button the Windows go down,the bow opens and the roof starts to retract then stops with the window section half folded. If anybody could help it would be greatly appreciated
Reply 0
Apr 29, 2017 | 09:24 PM
  #183  
Quote: Hello everyone.
I'm new to this forum, and maybe someone has presented this problem before, but I couldn't find anything when searching the forum.

Last year the light on the trunk release switch on the center console started going on even if the trunk was closed, and that means that I can't get the roof down. The problem came and went a few times and I had the car looked at by a dealership. They replaced a wire and told me that if that didn't help I had to replace the whole trunk lock mechanism. Now the light stays on all the time, and as replacing the lock mechanism is pretty expensive I wonder if someone knows if there is a possibility to bypass/short circuit the trunk sensor/trunk release switch so that I can operate the roof again?

I would be grateful for any help/answers.
If the status lamp is lit up on the trunk switch then indeed the top control system believes the trunk is open. Some of this ties into central locking system and locking actuators.
For a test lock the car with the FOB and attempt to open the trunk by hand. If this is the case the locking actuator for the trunk has failed. If the trunk is locked then the electric contacts on the actuator have failed.
I tested the little white lamp switch on the trunk lid and it does not tie into the trunk system, These wires are known to melt down and fail.

Best, Gator
Reply 0

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Apr 29, 2017 | 09:33 PM
  #184  
Quote: Hi everybody
I am new to here and after reading a lot of these posts I have realised if I am to fix my convertible Problems it will be through this site. Let me start I bought a 320clk with roof problems, I have topped up the fluids replaced the relay and manually opened and closed the roof.
The roof now when I unlatch it and hold the button the Windows go down,the bow opens and the roof starts to retract then stops with the window section half folded. If anybody could help it would be greatly appreciated
Inspect cabling near the passenger hatch hinge they are prone to fail from repeated bending. An easy fix once you get a feel for how the top is intended to operate. I have a photo but on another PC at the moment.
From your description a cable in the windscreen hydraulic cylinder might be the culprit.

Its Rough sometimes.
Cheers, Gator
Reply 1
Apr 30, 2017 | 04:55 AM
  #185  
Thanks Gator
When I open it I slightly hold the front top up and it fully opens so I am confident that what you have explained is the problem if you could explain how I access this cable, I know the part number is a lot to ask but if possible that would be greatly appreciated
Thanks again
Reply 0
May 1, 2017 | 06:31 PM
  #186  
Quote: Thanks Gator
When I open it I slightly hold the front top up and it fully opens so I am confident that what you have explained is the problem if you could explain how I access this cable, I know the part number is a lot to ask but if possible that would be greatly appreciated
Thanks again
Believe it or not if you are helping the top to operate by holding up on the front while opening it is not an electrical problem.

The top tension cables have likely stretched or broken.

Just so happens I have the numbers handy.

Left Side is 208 750 01 59
Right side is 208 750 02 59

Here is a handy ling for adjustments and replacement. Adjusting is worth a try.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...anvas-top.html

Good luck, Gator
Reply 0
May 1, 2017 | 06:35 PM
  #187  

This cable causes much trouble. It is on the bow hinge
Reply 0
May 23, 2017 | 03:08 PM
  #188  
Hi,I have a 2002 CLK 430 Cabriolet. The trunk doesn't work when the top is up (either from transmitter or console), but it works when the top is down. When the top is up, I don't get a beep signaling the completion of the cycle and the light on the trunk switch won't light. When the top is completely down and I get the beep, the trunk light operates and the trunk can be opened from either transmitter or console. Any ideas before going to the dealer? Thanks.
Reply 0
Apr 7, 2018 | 09:38 PM
  #189  
Quote: Keep in mind that there are many switch interlocks that may keep the motor from operating (see post 16 above).

Additionally, the hydraulic motor relay fails much more frequently then the motor itself (e.g. due to switching high current the contacts fail).

The fuel pump relay is of the same type, so you can temporarily use it to see if the hydraulic unit relay is the problem.

See attached for more information.
Hello,

Clicking on your attachments just show black on both firefox and chrome
Reply 0
Apr 8, 2018 | 06:52 AM
  #190  
Quote: Hello, Clicking on your attachments just show black on both firefox and chrome
After some updates were made in the forum's software, where this seems to occur on older archived attachments.

The solution is to right click on the attachment and then in the drop down, select open in another tab or window.
Reply 0
Apr 8, 2018 | 06:21 PM
  #191  
Quote: serlock,

thank you for the additional detail. I will address the question of testing the pump motor below, as requested. You were mentioning a lot of noise, but that may be the normal noise level from the pump. If the headrests were moving before, then obviously the pump was still working. It is possible that the pump motor was about to burn out and the pump could produce enough pressure only to move the headrests aka roll bars, but not enough pressure to unlock the rear bow for soft top movement. Normally, the 40A fuse would blow once the electric motor on the pump has seized. However, if you hold the button only for a short time, then the fuse does not necessarily have to blow.

Since you already have access to the pump, you could briefly "hot wire" it. Take out the relay and put a jumper where pins 30 and 87 of the relay were in the connector. If the pump runs now, then it was not the problem.

I am attaching below a picture of an electric motor that has started melting inside, and a picture of a jumper on the relay connector.




Fully agreed. Checking out the signals from the micro switches is probably what the diagnostics will come down to.



Agreed, swapping in the fuel pump relay is a good test for the relay. It is not necessarily a test for the pump motor. Obviously, swapping relays will only make the pump run if there is a signal telling the relay to switch ON in the first place. Serlock mentioned clicking in the rear - that was probably the old relay at least trying to activate. The two most common failure modes for the relays are burnt contacts not providing enough conductivity, or the contacts welding together (not likely in your case, since the fuse is still intact and it normally blows after the motor has run for too long).


Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/23-w208-clk
Is the relay 0025421319 the same as 0025421419? I have the latter in my 2005
Reply 0
May 14, 2018 | 09:51 PM
  #192  
Roll Bars activated w208 with top up, HELP
My roll bars on my 2000 CLK are activated and have not been able to get them down, they are lodged against the top. Will this cause any problems if I manually release the top?
Reply 0
Jun 27, 2018 | 03:56 PM
  #193  
soft top and roll bar issues
so I've been reading and fighting with this problem for the past week. Basically what is happening with my 02 clk is that the roll bars activated while i was bringing the top up, i manually lowered the top and since then the top isnt working. After some research i removed the rear seat assembly and release the hydraulic srcew on the pump and then proceeded to lower the roll bar manually, i own a snap-on scanner and i was able to pull the codes b1646 ( unfortunately i dont remember what it was 100% but something to the effect of, roll bar activated for more then 25 seconds). once i erased the code my soft top system started working, but not 100% ... it would start its sequence windows go down top unlocks and top cover unlocks but i stops there and the roll bar goes up again.

i re-scanned for codes and i got b1650-00 - fault in soft top actuation proccess. the limit switches do not have the position excepted in the function sequence

i would also like to mention that every time the roll bar demands a signal up or down,weather its from the manual control in dash or from the N52 the emergency roll bar deploys (with ratchet sound)

things i have checked so far : pump relay - ok
cargo cover safety switch - ok
soft top limit switches - ok
visual inspection of hydraulic fluid and leaks - ok
tried the button reset for roll bars - i hear the pump but does not lock into place and can not bring back down the headrest without manual force

my suspicion is that the Y57/1 RB deployment solenoid is defective causing the roll bar to deploy all the time. does this make any sense to some of you MB gurus?

All help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Reply 0
Jun 27, 2018 | 07:40 PM
  #194  
Quote: my suspicion is that the Y57/1 RB deployment solenoid is defective causing the roll bar to deploy all the time. does this make any sense to some of you MB gurus?
Hello Mitch,

welcome to the forum! Nice detective work - I agree that the roll bar valve is almost certainly the culprit. Solenoid Y57/1 RB is in the roll bar valve assembly:


CLK roll bar valve assembly
You already know, but I will reiterate for future readers: The roll bar valve assembly is mounted below the roll bar cylinder, which is behind the rear seat on the left side. Part number 1248001678. https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/...d-service.html

See also our good old location diagram:



Klaus
Reply 0
Jul 1, 2018 | 10:52 AM
  #195  
Not fully opens
Hello here is the video what my soft top is doing. I have 2002 clk320 w208.
After this operations soft top switch ia blinking slow and wont do anything. I tried close manually and open with switch but still bllinking slow and wont do anything.
Reply 0
Jul 1, 2018 | 06:58 PM
  #196  
It appears a interlock circuit in the cylinder retract cycle has locked the pump out. One of the limit switches or cabling to on the retract cylinder.

I like the buckskin interior reminds me of my W124. Never spotted on W208.

Cheers, Gator
Reply 0
Jul 1, 2018 | 07:41 PM
  #197  
iamtngg.......Did you read though this thread?

The A208 has been in production for nearly 20 years now and the forum is a treasure chest of how to diagnose, troubleshoot and DIY repair problems with the power roof and/or roll-bar.

Posted numerous times, not only in the thread, but in numerous others, is a chart that shows the the important stages of power roof operation along with the requisite actuation's of the position/limit switches and/or hydraulics. Lastly, documentation that explains the conditions of the slow blinking lite, of the power roof's main switch is also covered. Note: In your 2002, there is only a single switch in the A25.

Your video shows that when opening the roof, all is normal, until the point where the compartment cover raises, but thereafter, the rear bow does not lower, allowing the subsequent stages of power roof operation to proceed.

Around 6 months ago, you posted that you were having issues with your roll-bar, but then never followed up to any of the suggestions. The power of this forum is not only by providing help, but more so, in successful outcomes.

Specific to where your roof fails to open (e.g. between stages 6 and 7), it seems that a position/limit switch has not actuated. However, this could be due not only to a faulty switch, but to it's wiring or a faulty hydraulic operation.

While those are some with knowledge of how the power roof is supposed to operate, with strong troubleshooting skills, that will know how to proceed further however, a very viable alternative is to get the roof and/or roll-bar stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), from a shop having the MB STAR diagnostic software, which will reduce the possibilities, into a solution.
Reply 0
Jul 2, 2018 | 07:40 AM
  #198  
Quote: iamtngg.......Did you read though this thread?

The A208 has been in production for nearly 20 years now and the forum is a treasure chest of how to diagnose, troubleshoot and DIY repair problems with the power roof and/or roll-bar.

Posted numerous times, not only in the thread, but in numerous others, is a chart that shows the the important stages of power roof operation along with the requisite actuation's of the position/limit switches and/or hydraulics. Lastly, documentation that explains the conditions of the slow blinking lite, of the power roof's main switch is also covered. Note: In your 2002, there is only a single switch in the A25.

Your video shows that when opening the roof, all is normal, until the point where the compartment cover raises, but thereafter, the rear bow does not lower, allowing the subsequent stages of power roof operation to proceed.

Around 6 months ago, you posted that you were having issues with your roll-bar, but then never followed up to any of the suggestions. The power of this forum is not only by providing help, but more so, in successful outcomes.

Specific to where your roof fails to open (e.g. between stages 6 and 7), it seems that a position/limit switch has not actuated. However, this could be due not only to a faulty switch, but to it's wiring or a faulty hydraulic operation.

While those are some with knowledge of how the power roof is supposed to operate, with strong troubleshooting skills, that will know how to proceed further however, a very viable alternative is to get the roof and/or roll-bar stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), from a shop having the MB STAR diagnostic software, which will reduce the possibilities, into a solution.
Serndipity,
First of all , thank you for reply and believe me i've read this thread and many others for solution of my problem, yes i posted about 6 month ago and yes i found that my soft top control module (N52) was bad and i've replaced it. Maybe i forgot to post here and i'm really sorry for that I troubleshooted many of my soft top problems by this forum and instructions. Maybe i missed something about this particular problem and didn't saw the solution or DIY. So i'm sorry and thank you for your instructions, really I didn't mean to be careless

Quote: It appears a interlock circuit in the cylinder retract cycle has locked the pump out. One of the limit switches or cabling to on the retract cylinder.

I like the buckskin interior reminds me of my W124. Never spotted on W208.
Thanks for reply, it's called Designo edition
Reply 0
Jul 24, 2018 | 02:31 AM
  #199  
Soft top stopped working after removing front seats
So, my soft top had worked fine before taking out my front seats. I removed the seats so I could replace the rear carpeting. After I installed the carpet, I decided to put the top back up as I would reinstall the seats the next day. Well, the top would not go back up.
​​​​​​
Here are the symptoms. After turning the ignition key to position 2, the center console soft top switch glows red and stays lit. The SRS light stays on but, that disappeared after I replaced the passenger seat. While I was at it I replaced the drivers seat too. After unlocking the front handle and pushing up on the top, all four windows rolled down. The rear headrests do move up and down and they are currently in the down position. When I pull up on the console switch it stays lit red and there is no blinking. The roof hydraulics do not make a sound. I checked the hydraulic reservoir and it's level with the top line. All three fuses are good.

The only thing I can think of is the relay; that maybe I burnt it out when reconnecting all the switches in the center console while the engine was running.

I appreciate the help and the time you will take to read this.
Reply 0
Jul 24, 2018 | 07:15 AM
  #200  
Quote: So, my soft top had worked fine before taking out my front seats. I removed the seats so I could replace the rear carpeting. After I installed the carpet, I decided to put the top back up as I would reinstall the seats the next day. Well, the top would not go back up.
​​​​​​
Here are the symptoms. After turning the ignition key to position 2, the center console soft top switch glows red and stays lit. The SRS light stays on but, that disappeared after I replaced the passenger seat. While I was at it I replaced the drivers seat too. After unlocking the front handle and pushing up on the top, all four windows rolled down. The rear headrests do move up and down and they are currently in the down position. When I pull up on the console switch it stays lit red and there is no blinking. The roof hydraulics do not make a sound. I checked the hydraulic reservoir and it's level with the top line. All three fuses are good.

The only thing I can think of is the relay; that maybe I burnt it out when reconnecting all the switches in the center console while the engine was running.

I appreciate the help and the time you will take to read this.

Continuous illumination of the power top switch (S84), when it's not being pressed, would occur if the switch is defective or has a discontinuity.in it's wiring.

Check that when the connectors where put back onto the center consoles lower control field control module (N72), that the wiring harness connectors were put onto the correct switches.

To help figure that out, the power roof S84 switch, should have color coded wiring that would include BW, BKGY, YEWH, GYBU .
Reply 0
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