CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

HELP! Can't get into trunk!

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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 11:06 PM
  #1  
etownbala's Avatar
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02' CLK 430
HELP! Can't get into trunk!

Anyone know any secrets? My rear seats are locked in...my key wont open the key lock...i think the pump is blown on the locking system...anyone have any tips on getting in there? I heard popping the seats down through the medical kit cubby but i looked and have no idea how i'm supposed to do anything from there...

Any advice?

KRis
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 12:50 AM
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1999 CLK 320 Carbo
I know just what you mean. I spent days trying open the trunk with the "spare" key. What worked for me was to turn key to to the left but not all the way to the 9:00 position. Stop at the 10:00 position and push straight in. It works for me.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by etownbala
Anyone know any secrets? My rear seats are locked in...my key wont open the key lock...i think the pump is blown on the locking system...anyone have any tips on getting in there? I heard popping the seats down through the medical kit cubby but i looked and have no idea how i'm supposed to do anything from there...

Any advice?

KRis
...arm through the opening and grab the seat release.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 02:37 PM
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2004 E55 AMG
On my 04 E55 if use the spare key inside your key fob and turn it to the right (I think) and then pull the latch it comes open. Not sure if it will work on your car but worth a try.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 02:39 PM
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Or use a pole or broom handle to push the green emergency release button. If you have access to the inside from your arm rest in the back seat
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JGW04E55
Or use a pole or broom handle to push the green emergency release button. If you have access to the inside from your arm rest in the back seat
This way works... If you don't have subwoofers. Haha.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 04:20 PM
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What makes you believe the pump isn't working? Do the rest of the doors unlock with the remote?
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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02' CLK 430
Originally Posted by MagmaRed55
What makes you believe the pump isn't working? Do the rest of the doors unlock with the remote?
I got into the car using the small opening under the medical kit tray....used a small peice of wood wrapped in cloth to push down the cable and voila! I was able to unlock the 40 seat on the passenger side.

The rest of the door lock/un-lock fine with the remote and the switch inside the car.

A few weeks ago I began hearing a hissing sounds coming the the right rear of my trunk as well as the lid wouldn't close immediately...I had to wait for the pump to stop hissing to close the lid (make sense?)...the hissing got louder and I meant to investigate it but what ended up happening is one day it just stopped making any noise when I try to open the trunk...and the lid will not pop with the remote or the switch on the console. There is no noise of any kind when i depress the button...makes me believe the pump was shot. However If there is only one central van lock pump then maybe a vacuum connection broke loose or something...I have to find time to crawl in there and take apart the trunk lining to see what exactly is going on.

Any tips? Suggestions?

KRis
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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If you are in no rush, WD-40 the lock set. They are notoriously non functional due to lack of use....method above will get you into the truck eventually.
It will be easier to work on the liner if you can get it open.

BTW..I always keep one rear seat unlocked for exactly your problem.
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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I agree with cindyclk. I must have spent like 40 minutes with wd40 and jiggling the key with a pair of needle nose pliers (pliers for grip NOT for leverage). I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure that if you had a leaky line to the pneumatic pump, it would cause the pump to run non stop until fuse or pump failure. I'm sure someone else will correct me if I'm wrong. As far as I've known the most common problem for non functioning trunk release is the switch for the trunk light being stuck (either the trunk panel being "bunched up" around it or its just gunked up). Either way you need the trunk open to address that issue. If you look into your trunk from inside the car you should see a blinking Greene button. If so... hit that. If don't see the button. The wd40 trick is the best way I know how.
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 05:14 PM
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02' CLK 430
Originally Posted by MagmaRed55
I agree with cindyclk. I must have spent like 40 minutes with wd40 and jiggling the key with a pair of needle nose pliers (pliers for grip NOT for leverage). I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure that if you had a leaky line to the pneumatic pump, it would cause the pump to run non stop until fuse or pump failure. I'm sure someone else will correct me if I'm wrong. As far as I've known the most common problem for non functioning trunk release is the switch for the trunk light being stuck (either the trunk panel being "bunched up" around it or its just gunked up). Either way you need the trunk open to address that issue. If you look into your trunk from inside the car you should see a blinking Greene button. If so... hit that. If don't see the button. The wd40 trick is the best way I know how.
I will try using some WD-40 to make the lockset work. I tried hitting the green button inside the trunk and got nothing...I will also check the fuse when I get home...i'm thinking if a vacuum line dis-connected it could cause my issue. I'm hoping its nothing too serious since I use my trunk so much.

KRis
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 05:39 PM
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Don't Hulk it! Hahaha but good luck to ya! Keep us posted.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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cl55
I have the same problem now the pump was making some kind of noise now it's just not working
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tido
I have the same problem now the pump was making some kind of noise now it's just not working
Try the tips listed above.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 02:09 PM
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02' CLK 430
I still have not been able to "pop" my trunk. I did manage to get in using the first aid tray area and by unlocking the rear seats. But the trunk is just locked up and wont budge. I have to get in there and remove all the lining and look and the connections and such...I will also try and lubricate the latch.

KRis
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by etownbala
I still have not been able to "pop" my trunk. I did manage to get in using the first aid tray area and by unlocking the rear seats. But the trunk is just locked up and wont budge. I have to get in there and remove all the lining and look and the connections and such...I will also try and lubricate the latch.

KRis
When you lubricate the lock tumbler, I recommend if possible lubricate and wait overnight then try. Good luck rolling around in the trunk. Hope your not claustrophobic.
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by etownbala
Anyone know any secrets? My rear seats are locked in...my key wont open the key lock...i think the pump is blown on the locking system...anyone have any tips on getting in there? I heard popping the seats down through the medical kit cubby but i looked and have no idea how i'm supposed to do anything from there...

Any advice?

KRis
Do you got power? Battery? What happens when you push the key trunk open button? Or button in dash ? If u got power it shall open.
Tried same just locked my only key in the trunk after I disconnected the battery and slammed closed the trunk dooh!
. Trust me this is the worlds safest trunk I had lock smith drilling for 4 hours he never got it open :-)
But got it open with a spare battery connected engine bay lol
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Old Mar 17, 2014 | 12:39 PM
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Well I figured out why it wont open. The "whirrr" sound stopped when I overused the pump trying to open the trunk latch. Apparently these pumps are pretty smart and when you use them too much they will shut off and only start up again once you disconnect and reconnect the battery. I cleaned out my trunk via rear folded down seats and got to work stripping the inside trunk lining off. When I reconnected the battery I got the "whirrr" sound back from the pump. I could hear a leak near the pump area. I stripped the lining from the passenger side rear trunk area (by CD changer) and immediately noticed the problem. See pic below.

Vacuum line is torn straight across. You can see the friction marks on the metal of the trunk where it was rubbing or pinching. Looks like I may have been overpacking the trunk during ski trips and such and put enough pressure on the lining to pinch the vacuum hose.

I think I'm going to try and repair it by using a plastic bendable pvc sleeve from a mountain bike hydraulic brake bleeding kit and twist tie the ends together. Then I will try to epoxy the ends to seal and voids. Hopefully this restored the vacuum and my trunk will pop. I really dont want to have to replace the entire line. Looks like a PITA. And I'm thinking even after repair i'll wrap the ***** out of it with electrical tape an hope it last for another 100000 km.




KRis

Last edited by etownbala; Mar 17, 2014 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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Cheers to you for being able to function in the trunk, that's a pretty tight office space.
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MagmaRed55
Cheers to you for being able to function in the trunk, that's a pretty tight office space.
Oh man was it ever. Although quite surprisingly comfortable I must say when you extend your legs out over the folded seats. Took a little bit of force to pull the side panel out without tearing or bending it in a undesirable way. All in all it wasn't that bad.

I located a 2 inch piece or plastic tubing I had laying around in my bike brake bleed kit and i'm going to try and epoxy it onto the vacuum line ends...its just slightly larger in diameter or the vacuum line so I think it will work...the epoxy should help seal it...i'll secure it with some zip ties at either end as well. I hope to achieve a solid seal this way. Again, replacing the entire line is not my preferred choice as it looks to be a PITA. I'll post a picture tonight.

KRis
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