Hitman0187

Using the search function brought up a bunch of unresolved threads so here we go -

When braking hard, backing up with the wheel turned and going over certain bumps will deliver a clunk from the passenger side front wheel that can be felt in the steering wheel as well.

So far in attempts to remedy this I have tightened the steering bolts, tightened the wheel hubs, replaced the lower ball joints and none of it has made a difference.

The dealer here in Austin wants me to believe its due to aftermarket brake pads having to much tolerance and is pushing to replace them at $400. I do not buy into brake pads as I can not physically move them in the caliper with a large screwdriver. I think they are completely guessing and hoping I will just throw money at it.

Anyone have clunking caused by aftermarket brake pads?

beefstallionAMG

Brake pads will not make a clunk. They could bind or squeak but not cause a clunk under normal driving conditions. Replacing brakes would be a waste of money.

I'd take the car to another shop that understands German cars for a second opinion. Do you have any Euro car specialist shops in your area? Have them put the car on a lift and check it with a pry bar, pushing on suspension components to find the culprit. It could really be anything in your front suspension and the only way to find the source is to test it.

Hitman0187

that was my thought process as well on the brake pads. There just isn't enough space to create a clunk in there....

jonUF02

Check all your bushings, there is probably a bad one somewhere.

How do the shocks look? Maybe the top shock bushings. They are cheap and easy to replace, you don't have to worry about any springs, the shocks are separate. I got the KYB for about $65 each, takes maybe an hour to do both front shocks.

How about the motor mounts? Does it clunk into gear F or R? They are also pretty easy to replace, plenty of DIY write-ups around here. I have a pair that is still good, but I replaced them chasing other issues, so I would sell them cheap if you want them.

What about the steering damper shock? another quick and cheap maintenance item, maybe $50 and 2 easy bolts. You can drop one side and check for resistance status.

MarcusF

When was the last time the steering gear bolts were tightened? If you don't know what I'm talking about then they are due. . It is one of the easiest services to do and it is frequently overlooked. On my Signal to Noise page, towards the bottom is a link called W208 steering gear bolts. That will tell you how to do it. They are supposed to be retorqued every 4 years or 50,000 miles. If that isn't it, you may want to check the lower ball joints. That too is described on my page. If it's neither of those, it could be the lower control arm bushings. I don't describe that on the page but with the wheel removed it takes 30 seconds to check and only requires a pry bar.

Hitman0187

Sorry for the delays here, the noise still exists even after I replaced the brake pads myself.

I already tightened the steering bolts, the wheel hubs and replaced the lower ball joints and steering damper before I posted here.
I have the kyb shocks also as well, I think they are great.

stuck here without able to isolate the noise

FinnAussie

Drag link perhaps

Hitman0187

Where the drag link?
also Marcus how is the best way to test the lower control arm bushing? I own a pry bar and was itching to use it

MarcusF

A picture is worth a gazillion words. In this link, the guy demonstrates with a W210. After the ad, the video should start right where the guys shows you how. If not, skip forward to the 4 minute, 45 seconds mark.

insame1

Take a look at your sway bar end links. My CLK and m c32 both had this problem solved with new bushings.

Hitman0187

that is a great video, haven't had a chance to replicate the testing yet !