i brought this Mercedes Benz clk320 yr 2000 everything was working fine. it was one day I try to put down my convertible and it work but when I was riding it around my area(Los Angeles ca) I stop to pump gas in the car and the next thing you know I saw yellow fluid or oil fluid on the outside of my trunk lids and it wouldn't stop. So after I saw that I immediately put my convertible back and it was making some weird noises (clicking and little motor sound trying to put back the convertible) I was able to close it but my headrest when up and wouldn't go back down. I could unlock the roof and the Windows will go down but a red blinking light come up and doesn't let me open it anymore

 

"""""i brought this Mercedes Benz clk320 yr 2000 everything was working fine. it was one day I try to put down my convertible and it work but when I was riding it around my area(Los Angeles ca) I stop to pump gas in the car and the next thing you know I saw yellow fluid or oil fluid on the outside of my trunk lids and it wouldn't stop.""""""

Dollars to doughnuts, your rear bow lock hydraulic cylinder has developed a leak (e.g. when you open the soft top case cover, the pooled fluid spills onto the trunk lid).

""""""" So after I saw that I immediately put my convertible back and it was making some weird noises (clicking and little motor sound trying to put back the convertible) I was able to close it but my headrest when up and wouldn't go back down. I could unlock the roof and the Windows will go down but a red blinking light come up and doesn't let me open it anymore""""""

Due to the leak, there is not much fluid left in the system. You're lucky to have gotten the roof back up. The last step when closing the power roof is for it to raise the roll-bar/headrest up, if they were previously up before you lowered the roof.

Currently you can manually unlock the front bow and the windows will lower because they run via electrical motors. Without sufficient hydraulic fluid no further operation is possible and more importantly, you run the risk of burning out the pump motor.

You can verify that the rear bow lock cylinder is leaking by opening the soft top case cover, removing the lid carpet and inspecting it. If you want to check this out, you'll have to open the cover manually. The procedure is explained in detail in your owner manual.

Dealer repair of the cylinder is $$$ and if you burn out hydraulic pump motor $$$$$.

Fortunately, Top Hydraulics http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/c...y-instructions can rebuild the cylinder and if your DIY capable, you can save a lot of money.

 

Thank you for a respond serndipity

""The last step when closing the power roof is for it to raise the roll-bar/headrest up, if they were previously up before you lowered the roof."""

No the roll-bar was not up it was down but a soon as i close it and I lock the headset went up and never came back down and the leak was on the top right (where the fluid came out)

""" If you want to check this out, you'll have to open the cover manually. The procedure is explained in detail in your owner manual."""

I don't think when I brought the car it came with the owner manual

And my hydraulic pump motor is good
Cuz I think I could hear it trying to run

 

Be careful using the top as Serndipity warned you can burn out the motor and you will be in for a major expense. You can find PDFs for the manual on line
http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalA..._cabriolet.pdf

Read the post where Serendipity and Klaus from Top Hydraulics cover electrical and hydraulic issues
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...-failures.html

 

"""""I don't think when I brought the car it came with the owner manual"""""

I see that burgca already sent you a link, where you can read or download a copy of the owners manual.

Operation of the power roof is described, beginning on page 162.

Raising and lowering the roof manually is described, beginning on page 191.

"""""No the roll-bar was not up it was down but a soon as i close it and I lock the headset went up and never came back down and the leak was on the top right (where the fluid came out)""""""


Post #135 and 136 at https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...-system-6.html will further explain why a leaking rear bow cylinder can deposit fluid on the trunk lid.

Again, if you would like to verify that the cylinder is leaking, you can manually unlock the rear bow and open the case cover. Then remove the carpet, on the underside of the lid and visually inspect the cylinder.

BTW, the seals that MB used only have a service life of about 10 years, so leaking cylinders on the W208 are now very common (especially on the rear bow and case cover cylinders).

Lastly see post #2 at https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...oing-down.html for more information on the roll bar.

The RB system has a differential (2 way) hydraulic cylinder, a value block to activate the desired up/down direction and a couple of limit/position switches. The current odd behavior may have been caused by the system becoming out of synch (not completing a full operation), due to low hydraulic pressure. After your repair, the 2nd thumbnail describes a simple 'subsequent locking' procedure, intended to restore the correct bow lock/unlock, case cover lock/unlock and roll-bar operation.

 

Thank you onces again burgca

Yea I hope my pump motor is fine the first site link is the 2001 clk320 the same as 2000 cause you sent me the 2001

 

Thank you so much serndipity
you help me out a lot
I'm have time tomorrow to open it up and seeing where the leak is coming from
after I find it what do I do to fit it any site that I can buy repair kit or something

And one more thing if my drive side motor mount is mess up should I buy both or just the drive side cause when I reverse the right one don't more. Do I think I'm good
And how do I know when should I replace transmission mount

 

Angelhr

In post #2, I mentioned that Top Hydraulics can rebuild any of the hydraulic components needed to repair our W208 convertibles. You'll also find superb DIY instructionals at their site as well. As example, see post #148 at https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...-system-6.html .

If one motor mount is bad, the other is probably not too far behind. I would replace both, which in the long run would be less expensive (labor wise).

The rubber in the transmission mount can loose it's properties with age. It's not an expensive part and fairly easy to replace, so it's good insurance to prevent drive line problems if your mount is over 10 years old. if the mount is weak you can get drive shaft vibrations that can ruin the flex mount disks on the drive shaft.