rotor and pad replacement.....oups, problem
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 34
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1999 CLK320
rotor and pad replacement.....oups, problem
Hi,
I recently bought a new set of pads and rotors and decided to do the job this W.E
Jack the car
Remove Wheel
Remove Caliper
Remove rotor
install new rotor
Install pads in calipers (they look good)
put back the loaded caliper...
wheel wont turn at all, even with pad out of the way...
remove calipers...
wheel won't turn
remove rotor...
wheel turn.
Is it possible that the rotor screw is too long for my new rotors ?
I mean thinner rotor wall made the rotor screw to jam the wheel ?
Opinions please.
I recently bought a new set of pads and rotors and decided to do the job this W.E
Jack the car
Remove Wheel
Remove Caliper
Remove rotor
install new rotor
Install pads in calipers (they look good)
put back the loaded caliper...
wheel wont turn at all, even with pad out of the way...
remove calipers...
wheel won't turn
remove rotor...
wheel turn.
Is it possible that the rotor screw is too long for my new rotors ?
I mean thinner rotor wall made the rotor screw to jam the wheel ?
Opinions please.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
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From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
IF the rotor is the brake disc that you are refering too, are you replacing the front or the back?
If you are replacing the front, the disk/rotor does not have anything to hold it in place. There is a small countersunk 5mm allen key screw that is merley there for lining it up correctly with the bolt/lug holes and serves no other purpose apart from stopping the rotor from falling on your foot !
Check that the new rotors and old rotor are the same thickness approxiamtely, you will obviously find the new one is thicker as it has not worn.
If the calipers have been pushed back to accomodate the new pads then this should allow the wheel to turn.
If you are replacing the rear rotors, then the wheel bolts if too long can touch the internal footbrake drum brake and prevent the wheel turning. However if you are just replacing the rotors then nothing should have changed?
If you are replacing the front, the disk/rotor does not have anything to hold it in place. There is a small countersunk 5mm allen key screw that is merley there for lining it up correctly with the bolt/lug holes and serves no other purpose apart from stopping the rotor from falling on your foot !
Check that the new rotors and old rotor are the same thickness approxiamtely, you will obviously find the new one is thicker as it has not worn.
If the calipers have been pushed back to accomodate the new pads then this should allow the wheel to turn.
If you are replacing the rear rotors, then the wheel bolts if too long can touch the internal footbrake drum brake and prevent the wheel turning. However if you are just replacing the rotors then nothing should have changed?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
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From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
Are you sure the rotors are not touching the heatsheild?
Thread Starter
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1999 CLK320
I will check tonight maybe the rotors touch the center part of the heeatshield I mean the à rear close to the hub and that's maybe why I can't see it touch when I put the rotor in place.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 34
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1999 CLK320
Removed the New set. Checked twice the fitting. Put it back and same problem. Removed an other time and checked the rotation of the hub...It rotates for about 1/8 turn and jam. I started engine and put it in drive. Car was near to fall from the stand. Again I suspected the bearing was jamming and the differential to put power on the other wheel.. so I done the same on the other side.
Same problem. Now my suspicion goes on the differential itself...
Same problem. Now my suspicion goes on the differential itself...
Last edited by clk320_; May 17, 2016 at 09:50 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 920
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From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
clk did you check the old disc with the new one, before you started this job?.Easy to inspect both discs for dimensions .Read a post on uk forum about a problem like this .The chap had put a bottle jack so close to the disc before he removed the wheel , it would not turn when disc in place. He noticed this after refitting the wheel .It just would not turn .. Even showed a picture of his disc ,you could see the jack was so close to the disc jamming it . With out the disc on your hub i dont think it would turn much anyway.if its a front wheel drive .
Last edited by optimusprime m1; May 18, 2016 at 04:52 AM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
I am puzzled at what you are describing, can you post some photos so we can see.
Have you tried to insert a wheel bolt instead of the small location screw and see if the wheel turns with the new rotors.
As already suggested, offer up the old disc with the new and see for differences.
Have you tried to insert a wheel bolt instead of the small location screw and see if the wheel turns with the new rotors.
As already suggested, offer up the old disc with the new and see for differences.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
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1999 CLK320
Yes I checked the old disc and the New one is exactly the same. Yes I used a wheel bolt instead of the allen screw. The wheel wont rotate. Finaly I checked without brake disc just the hub assembly and the wheel wont rotate more than a couple of revolutions then it bllock and you can see the other wheel is engaged and start to drive. Picture will not tell you the situation. Maybe a video but I don't have.
Last edited by clk320_; May 18, 2016 at 05:53 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
Yes I checked the old disc and the New one is exactly the same. Yes I used a wheel bolt instead of the allen screw. The wheel wont rotate. Finaly I checked without brake disc just the hub assembly and the wheel wont rotate more than a couple of revolutions then it bllock and you can see the other wheel is engaged and start to drive. Picture will not tell you the situation. Maybe a video but I don't have.
Then to break this down:
- Old and new rotors are the same - no issue
- Heat shield not rubbing - no issue
- Allen key in or out - no issue
- Wheel bolt in or out - no issue
- Hub does not rotate fully with either rotor on or off? - no issue
On the last point the wheel not rotating is how it should behave when you have the vehicle in Park if an automatic. It will only rotate if the gear selector is in Neutral or if the engine is on and the car is in drive but safely strapped down of course.
Thread Starter
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1999 CLK320
Exactly. Same issue with or without rotor on the hub.
It's not exactly as if I had de EB engaged because it start to rotate and stop after a short while (1 or 2 revolutions). I checked the parking brake and it is not engaged.
It's not exactly as if I had de EB engaged because it start to rotate and stop after a short while (1 or 2 revolutions). I checked the parking brake and it is not engaged.
Super Member
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From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
CLK i think to help every one involved thats helping you ,that a picture tells more than words .What screw have you removed .Are you working on rear or front wheels .And is it a front wheel drive ??? Like the post AIEK put on here ,if its auto and in park it wont move.
Thread Starter
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1999 CLK320
RWD....is there a CLK FWD ???
Working on Rear Wheels. I didn't remove no screw except during the brakes replacement and I putted all back as it should be. Anyway, even when I remove the calipers and the rotor the problem still the same. I can take a picture tonight and post it but the best would be a video. On a picture you will just see what is supposed to be. No sign of breakage or leak or whatever else. I don't know if I can post a video. ..
Working on Rear Wheels. I didn't remove no screw except during the brakes replacement and I putted all back as it should be. Anyway, even when I remove the calipers and the rotor the problem still the same. I can take a picture tonight and post it but the best would be a video. On a picture you will just see what is supposed to be. No sign of breakage or leak or whatever else. I don't know if I can post a video. ..
Thread Starter
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1999 CLK320
do you really think I try to move my wheels when in Park ?
I am not a MB certified tech but I have some knowledge....
No the EB is not engaged and the problem occurs even when motor is On and on the Drive position.
I am not a MB certified tech but I have some knowledge....
No the EB is not engaged and the problem occurs even when motor is On and on the Drive position.
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01 LORINSER CLK 430 - 02 KLEEMANN CLK55 - 88 Euro / Jap AMG 560 SEC Widebody - 16 AMG GTS
Your rear wheels are behaving normally - the differential in your car will make the rear wheels behave that way when both are suspended (or when one is on the ground and the other suspended as you describe in your other thread. See my suggestion in your other thread (where you describe the conditions under which you are experiencing the symptom that has you concerned) so that you can satisfy yourself that nothing's wrong.
Super Member
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From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
Lophat you are right .The wheel will only move very little .This being a rear wheel drive .You see , me owning older mercs,and thinking all new ones are front wheel drive .So like you i will say the same .And that CKK320 has no problem.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 920
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From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
CLK i think to help every one involved thats helping you ,that a picture tells more than words .What screw have you removed .Are you working on rear or front wheels .And is it a front wheel drive ??? Like the post AIEK put on here ,if its auto and in park it wont move.
Thread Starter
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1999 CLK320
Its a RWD, anyway, I don't know a CLK with FWD, Thanks anyway for the effort and patience.
To lowphat, no my wheel wasn't normal.
I have to say that optimus had a partial solution: Yes it was a problem with my ER. No it wasn't engaged but....
When I installed the spacers on my rear wheels, a couple of month ago, I had too long bolts. I replaced them with shortest ones. Everything was fine until recently, when I changed my brakes.
There was a broken spring which was in contact with the rotor when I install it. That's what made the rotor to jam.
Thanks everyone for your help.
Last edited by clk320_; May 21, 2016 at 10:09 AM.
