faulty roof.
I just went through a whole slew of roof issues with my W208. There is a lot of material on here in regards to diagnosing, e.g. the roof button flashing slowly, quickly, not at all... My hydraulic fluid was low, which was my first problem. tophydraulicsinc.com is very active on here - his website has excellent DIY instructions for getting to the hydraulic cylinders and replacing if needed. My rear bow lock cylinder was leaking... I had more issues after that, but low fluid led me down that path. I ended up fixing all of my issues for about $400, the dealer wanted $7,000...
Check posts on this from Serndipity - he has written a lot on this. The roof opens and closes in a sequence which occurs as switches at the various stages. My problem was the lower roll bar switch - this meant that the controller didn't think that the roll bar had closed all the way, not allowing the next step in the process to occur.
I'm assuming that the switch was the major problem with my roof, the hydraulic cylinder being secondary. That's just a guess, though. Have you checked your hydraulic fluid level after manually cycling the roof a few times? If the fluid level lowered any you would have a good indication of a hydraulic leak.
There is also a relay next to the hydraulic pump that can go bad - I'm not sure what that problem looks like.
When you try and operate the roof with the button what happens to it? Does it blink quickly, slowly, not at all?
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That indicates that you more than likely have a leak in your hydraulic system and therefore low system pressure.
More then likely, 1 of the 8 cylinders in the W208 power roof system is leaking. Note: Missing hydraulic fluid does not vanish and go the fluid heaven.
See: http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/diagrams/CLKDiagram.jpg
The usual suspects are the rear bow lock, case cover cylinders or the hydraulic lines located at the hinge of the case cover.
For the necessary steps, see posts 4 through 11 at: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ps-go-bad.html
BTW, in the first reply to your post, JG403 said that saved a bundle (e.g DIY $400 vs. $7,000 dealer repair). Additionally, his DIY repair also included having several 2 cylinders rebuilt by Top Hydraulics, so the total would have been closer to $10,000 for diagnosis, troubleshooting and shop repair.
Last edited by Serndipity; May 22, 2016 at 06:26 PM.




I've included thumbnails of the N52 RB/Power Roof controller and RB assembly.
Basically, the controller evaluates the inputs (e.g. shown on the left side as well as from the CANBus) and if correct, provides the necessary outputs (e.g. shown on the right side) to operate the RB and power roof system.
The RB has 2 limit switches, S83/5 and S83/6, that should shut off the hydraulic pump when the desired positions are reached.
You can check that these switches are activating properly using a multi-meter (see this link).
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ar-switch.html
However, there can be other conditions causing the symptoms you're experiencing. As example, the RB uses a single differential (2 way acting) hydraulic cylinder to both raise and lower the RB. If a cylinder seal is leaking, either externally or internally, it may not be raising or lowering the RB enough to reach the limit switches.
The RB/Power Roof is very complex and a suggestion would be to have the MB STAR software check for any stored diagnostic trouble codes, by a qualified technician. The cost should be around $100. Also ask for a print out of any stored codes and that they be cleared (some stored codes can keep the system from operating properly).
Having this information can greatly facilitate a solution.
Last edited by Serndipity; May 23, 2016 at 10:35 PM.


