01 CLK320 Convertible Top Switch Q's
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Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Tucson, AZ
CLK320
01 CLK320 Convertible Top Switch Q's
The convertible top switch on the center console has been flashing/chiming for awhile now. I believe that the car thinks that the top isn't fully closed? I don't have any intention of retracting the top for awhile, so is it possible to remove the top relay or fuse to stop the switch from chiming/flashing? Or are there any other ways to stop the switch from flashing/chiming without fixing the top and still being able to open the trunk?
I'm used to working on rock crawlers, so a Mercedes is new to me as far as how the top works
I'm used to working on rock crawlers, so a Mercedes is new to me as far as how the top works
Last edited by Moabbnd; Sep 28, 2016 at 03:39 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Boston North Shore
2001 CLK320 Cabrio
Hi Moabbnd,
Yes, of the roof is not fully locked, you'll get the warnings you mention.
Dollars to doughnuts, it's more than likely the soft top case cover or rear bow locks, caused by a malfunctioning hydraulic cylinders (e.g. leaking), which has been a very common problem. Note: If your fault is an unlocked roof, your console trunk release switch will not function, due to a built in safely interlock to keep the case cover and trunk lid from colliding).
Additionally, the flashing lamp in the main power roof operating switch, also provides basic fault diagnostics, see enclosed details in the enclosed thumbnail.
They can be rebuilt by Top Hydraulics https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/...y-instructions and economically DIY replaced.
In the interim my first suggestion to end the alarms, would be to manually lock the case cover and rear bow. Details of each procedure is covered by 'how to raise your roof manually', in the practical hints section of your owner's manual. Note: the procedure includes reducing the hydraulic system pressure, which will also reduce the puddles of hydraulic fluid, if your cylinders are leaking.
Alternatively, see the enclosed functional diagram of the power roof/roll bar controller (N52).
The controller inputs are shown on the left, the outputs are on the right and connections to the CANBus, which can be inputs or output, are on the bottom.
The controller is fused in 3 places (e.g. C.30, C.15, C31 inputs). The warning lights for the main power roof switch (S84) and Roll bar switch (S 83) are outputs.
Our A208s, have 4 fuse blocks.
Fuse block F4, located in the trunk, has 2 of the controller fuses. Circuit 13, as I recall is a 40 amp fuse, only protects the pump motor. Don't bother pulling this fuse, or the pump motor relay, as the circuit does not power the N52 controller. However, Circuit 11, as I recall is a 15 amp fuse, is one of two fuses that does provide power to the controller. The other source of power to the controller, is Circuit 15, as I recall is a 5 amp fuse, and is located in fuse block F1, which is one of two fuse blocks, located in the engine bay. My best guess would be to try the later fuse as a first attempt to shut off the warning alarm.
The reason I suggested manually locking the roof, is that electrically turning off the N52 controller will have other consequences. For example, rear window motor operation (e.g. M10/5/6) and/or other CANBus attached controller functionality.
Yes, of the roof is not fully locked, you'll get the warnings you mention.
Dollars to doughnuts, it's more than likely the soft top case cover or rear bow locks, caused by a malfunctioning hydraulic cylinders (e.g. leaking), which has been a very common problem. Note: If your fault is an unlocked roof, your console trunk release switch will not function, due to a built in safely interlock to keep the case cover and trunk lid from colliding).
Additionally, the flashing lamp in the main power roof operating switch, also provides basic fault diagnostics, see enclosed details in the enclosed thumbnail.
They can be rebuilt by Top Hydraulics https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/...y-instructions and economically DIY replaced.
In the interim my first suggestion to end the alarms, would be to manually lock the case cover and rear bow. Details of each procedure is covered by 'how to raise your roof manually', in the practical hints section of your owner's manual. Note: the procedure includes reducing the hydraulic system pressure, which will also reduce the puddles of hydraulic fluid, if your cylinders are leaking.
Alternatively, see the enclosed functional diagram of the power roof/roll bar controller (N52).
The controller inputs are shown on the left, the outputs are on the right and connections to the CANBus, which can be inputs or output, are on the bottom.
The controller is fused in 3 places (e.g. C.30, C.15, C31 inputs). The warning lights for the main power roof switch (S84) and Roll bar switch (S 83) are outputs.
Our A208s, have 4 fuse blocks.
Fuse block F4, located in the trunk, has 2 of the controller fuses. Circuit 13, as I recall is a 40 amp fuse, only protects the pump motor. Don't bother pulling this fuse, or the pump motor relay, as the circuit does not power the N52 controller. However, Circuit 11, as I recall is a 15 amp fuse, is one of two fuses that does provide power to the controller. The other source of power to the controller, is Circuit 15, as I recall is a 5 amp fuse, and is located in fuse block F1, which is one of two fuse blocks, located in the engine bay. My best guess would be to try the later fuse as a first attempt to shut off the warning alarm.
The reason I suggested manually locking the roof, is that electrically turning off the N52 controller will have other consequences. For example, rear window motor operation (e.g. M10/5/6) and/or other CANBus attached controller functionality.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 22
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From: Tucson, AZ
CLK320
Thank you for the info Serndipity,
I have locked the rear bow manually, but I haven't accessed the case cover yet. I do know that some of the cylinders are leaking, so I'll do some digging and see what I can come up with to stop the flashing.
The rear bow used to be slightly open from it not locking down. The previous owner found a way to latch it down, but he wasn't aware of the manual lock ability. Since then, I used the manual lock on the rear bow to ensure that it is locked in
I have locked the rear bow manually, but I haven't accessed the case cover yet. I do know that some of the cylinders are leaking, so I'll do some digging and see what I can come up with to stop the flashing.
The rear bow used to be slightly open from it not locking down. The previous owner found a way to latch it down, but he wasn't aware of the manual lock ability. Since then, I used the manual lock on the rear bow to ensure that it is locked in
