tjanoski

I have the same issues that have been listed by others in bits and pieces on other threads but can't seem to find a consolidated answer. Car is a CLK 430 2001 Convertible. The battery ran down really low and weird electrical issues have happened ever since.

History: A friend borrowed my car and was driving when the front serpentine belt cracked off due to a bad pulley. Thus the alernator wasn't running so he was running on battery. Battery ran very low apparently. (We won't go into the overheating and possible blown head gasket) He said he only noticed situation when lights dimmed and he noticed loss of power steering and some error messages. Replaced the pulley and belt and recharged battery a bit and the car started fine.

Issue: After a day or two the convertible top switch was on when I got into the car and I could not raise or lower the windows using the switches inside. A couple days later the side mirrors would not move and I could not open the trunk using the switch side (near the window switches). Side note: I can open and close the windows (just the front 2) using my remote so its not a power window motor issue.

I ran diagnostics and get no errors from the Advanced Auto parts reader and all fuses were checks and ok. Battery fully charged according to the readings.

I unhooked the battery and everything worked and I turned off the car. The next time I started it windows, side mirrors, trunk switch and opening trunk using remote did not work. Convertible top switch is also illuminated.

Note: During the summer the convertible top worked fine but on a couple occasions after and rain and a on a couple of days when it was cold in the morning I would come out to go to work and start the car and the red convertible top switch would be illuminated and I could not raise or lower the windows. After driving a bit the light on the switch would go out and I could raise and lower the windows. This only happened a couple times and since it self corrected I didn't spend any time researching. I am thinking this may be related.

insame1

I would start with a new battery.

Serndipity

As a new A208 owner, welcome to the forum.

I'm glad you initially tried to the forums search function.

I would be the 1st to agree it has limited functionality.

But more importantly, it's because there are numerous newbies, who post, thinking that there problem with a 15+ year old MB, is an unique issue.

As a result, to many dead ends.

Instead, use google advanced search, where you can define an exact wording and site.

Mechanically, with proper PM, our W208/A208 have been fairly bullet proof (e.g. make sure your 722.6 transmission has been serviced, despite what your owner's manual states).

I see that you recently experienced an idler pulley (a.k.a. guide pulley) self destruction, which has been a very common problem (e.g.smallest pulley that spins the fastest, yet constructed with a single bearing and plastic).

A new pulley is a PM, on our aging cars, and only a $10 part. Note: I have previously a DIY on this.

Now you're related with your power roof (e.g. occasional roof operation, but the red light on main switch is lit).

This light provides basic diagnostic information (e.g. see thumbnail).

The power roof operation is very complex, not sure of troubleshooting/diagnostic skills, but dealer repair is $$$$$, while forum DIY repairs have been $.

exhaustgases

I'd disconnect the battery and in a few minutes reconnect it. Then turn ignition key lock to position 2 run the seat all the way forward hold switch 2 seconds, head rest all the way down hold switch 2 seconds. Close window hold 2 seconds, with sun roof lock position, raise at rear hold 1 second. And suppose it has to be running turn steer wheel to lock to left then to the right. That's from notes I had, maybe others can elaborate.
Its very likely this relearning issue that is causing the problems.

tjanoski

Ok thanks so much for the replies and trust me I have checked all over this forumn and Benzworld I have also googled for hours and found bits and pieces. I did unhook the battery cables and waited a few hours to rehook. As a side note I inadvertently closed the trunk and ran into the infamous metal key not working issue. I was able to get power to using jumper cables and then was able to open the trunk using the interior switch. After I rehooked the battery the top switch was not lit up, the side mirrors were adjustable, and the window switches inside worked, and the trunk release switch worked. All good. I went inside, came back out and the top switch was lit up, side mirrors were not adjustable, window and trunk release switch didn't work.

1. I have not checked the battery strength yet but it registers 14.2 using the climate control diagnostic readings. Could the issue really be the battery?

2. I opened up the top and played around with the latches thinking perhaps the computer doesn't think the top is down for some reason. Prior to these bizzare electrical issues I did notice that when the top was being closed it came down kind of hard. Perhaps the top switch is defective.

3. What is puzzling is that the top switch, windows switch, side view mirror switch, and trunk release switch all don't work but the windows work with the key fob and everything did work after the battery reset. I have studied some of the electrical diagrams and cannot seem to find a common relay.

My next actions are:

1. Try to open the trunk by hooking up jumper cables to the front positive terminal
2. Go get battery tested for proper voltage
3. If everything is ok, follow steps listed by ehhaustgases noted above.

tjanoski

Additional note is that when the convertible top switch is lit up the roll bar switch is also lit up and neither work when engaged

tjanoski

well i unhooked the battery negstive cable and closed the trunk and the metal key did not work to open trunk (does work to open driver door). I was able to get power using the port under the hood and when I connected the power was able to use the trunk switch to pop the trunk. Also the convertible and roll bar switch were no longer illuminated. Also the window and side mirror switches worked. I unhooked the jumper cables and rehooked my battery and thought all was good. 1/2 hour later came out and top switch and roll bar were light up again trunk release, window, and mirror adjustment switches didn't work. Now I can't get into the trunk again.

I am wondering if I go get a star diagnostic done if they can read the error codes and clear them so I can at least pop the trunk. Reading various threads th

tjanoski

thinking the issue may be the rear Sam? Any help would be appreciated.

Serndipity

There was zero chance that disconnecting the battery was going to fix your power roof/rollbar problem. All that does is erase certain settings, such as the power windows, ESP/BAS synchronization/normalization and your radio code. It does not clear stored diagnostic trouble codes.

Back in post #3, was a thumbnail that provided some preliminary fault analysis.

Having heard nothing further, I believe your situation is:

Indicator lamp in power soft top switch (S84) permanently illuminated with the vehicle is
stationary and S84 is not operated.

Possible causes can be:

-Soft top or soft top compartment cover is not locked properly
-Wiring or fuse, terminal 30
-Defective or wiring open-circuit at power soft top switch (S84)

Note: By far, proper locking of either the compartment cover or rear bow has been a very common problem. This is usually due to the associated hydraulic cylinders leaking and not actuating the locking mechanisms and position switches. When the controller is not notified of proper lock, power roof operation is not allowed. Occasionally, broken wires in the wiring harness, at the compartment cover hinge have been found to the cause, as well. Visual inspection of these components is easy to perform.

You're now reporting that your RB does not operate and switch (S83) also stays illuminated, so add the following as possible causes of your power roof, RB not operating:

-RB "retracted" switch (S83/5)
-RB "extended" switch (S83/6)

Note: In particular, issues with the RB retracted switch have been somewhat common on our A208s.

Hint: If your RB is currently fully down, a good way to check the that RB retracted switch has properly activated is to remove the controller connector and measure the ohms between the pin for the S83/5 circuit and ground (e.g. should at or near 0 ohms). Likewise, in this manner, you can also check that the compartment cover and rear bow position switch circuits are good, as well.

Alternatively, the MB STAR diagnostic software, used at dealers and some independent shops, will greatly help diagnose the fault.

tjanoski

thanks for this valuable information. Here is where I am on this.

1. Fortunately I was finally able to get the metal key to work and now can access the trunk.

2. I looked around the trunk for potential electrical issues and think I see the relay to ttrunk fuse box that others have had problems with. I was also able to access the pump by looking through the hole under the carpet and it appears that the pump is at least 2/3 full with regard to fluid.

3. I unhooked the negstive battery. Waited 20 min. Rehooked. Got the abs error which I cleared Had to enter radio code. Trunk switch, side mirrors, windows all worked and the roll bar switch and convertible switch were not lit up.

Affter dinner i will be headed out and have fingers crossed. As noted above i did this soft reset before and everything worked initially but then the issues came back almost as if same system identified errors and shut everything down

I am going to find one of the posts about the metal key since i was about to give up myself. What's not clear in these posts is that you need to flip the key compared to how you insert it in the driver door. Also, mine worked with a more powerful liquid wrench product

tjanoski

Ok so at about 8pm I had to go up to Baltimore which is like a 1.5 hour drive. Got in the car and bingo, everything worked. No roll bar light after start up, convertible top switch illuminated lightly (not the full red error color), window switches worked, side mirrors were adjustable, trunk release switch worked and trunk release on key fob worked. (Note that I did not attempt to put the top up to test that if it was working since its like 30 degrees and I didn't want to risk it failing) Stopped about 45min into drive at rest stop, bathroom break, came back to car, everything worked. Arrived in Baltimore around 9. Parked in parking structure, everything working. I had the trunk cover for the spare tire and battery area, ie, the carpeted cardboard type cover, in my back seat so I put that back in the trunk, locked everything up, and went to the function. Around 1230am I get back to car and oops, convertible top switch bright red, roll bar light on, window switches don't work. (was still able to use remote to roll down window but as previously was the case only the front windows came down). Good news maybe is that the trunk release switch in the cabin and on the key fob both still worked.

Is it possible that this may be as simple as the relay that is next to the trunk fuse box or perhaps some other wiring issues? I am thinking that putting the trunk cover piece on touched some of the spaghetti or wires in the right rear corner around the fuse box or hit the relay and messed things up. It just seems weird that everything was working fine and the only change per se was putting on that cover. I understand that somehow something thinks the top is not down but it isn't.

It was too cold to mess with tonight but tomorrow I plan on looking at all the wiring to see if there is any obvious issues. Then I plan on unhooking the battery again and seeing what happens.

insame1

Have you got a new battery yet?

tjanoski

ok so yesterday I went out to car and had the convertible top and roll bar light and window switches and side mirrors would not adjust.

Webt to aap and they hooked up a battery tester and the battery tested "good" however the tech noted that the positive connection to the battery was loose. I tightened this up and everything worked. Drove home.

This morning I put in key and back to tip switch and roll bar switch lit up. No windows or side mirrors. Was in hurry so headed out.
Driving on beltway 1/2 hour and top switch and roll bar switch turned off and windows and side mirrors worked.

Now or if we go back in time before the overheat situation this current situation was what I had. I.e. Would come out after cold night top switch and roll bar light would be lit. Drive a little bit and they would turn off and everything worked.

I did not look at the wiring in the trunk in detail yet but still can't help to think this issue is due to either

a. The relay that is next to the fuse box. Like it gets cold and freaks out

or

tjanoski

using this site on the phone is tough

or

b. There is a loose connection somewhere in the bunch of wires by the rear fuse box

or

c. There is a problem with the connection to the trunk lock which sends error message to top controller saying it's up.

As always appreciate and suggestions or input.

Serndipity

The relay you're describing (e.g. next to the fuse block in the trunk and shown in attached thumbnail), is the fuel pump relay. Not likely related to your power roof/RB lamps being on. But if you still want to try changing it, it's a commonly available inexpensive part (less then $10). The hydraulic pump uses the same relay, so at the least, you'll have a spare on hand.

What is related is the correct power being supplied to the controller. In addition to a terminal 30 wiring or fuse issue, if the supply voltage falls below 11 volts, the top and RB switches will illuminate.

In your initial post, you mentioned that the problems started when the idler pulley failed and the car continued running solely on the battery, until it completely discharged. Note: Completely discharging a lead acid battery, specially an older one, is usually a kiss of death. If the battery is newer, there are special charging methods to bring it back with minimal damage. Goggle it.

A possibility is that your is battery in poor condition, it may not supply the necessary voltage to run the electrics, until supplemental power from alternator running,kicks in.

Lastly, as described in the owners manual, if the power roof is being operated and the voltage supply drops under 11 volts, it will be necessary to re-synchronize the power roof.

tjanoski

Ok so yesterday after the car was sitting all night in the cold I headed out and the top and roll bar lights were lit up 1/2 hour later they went out and window and mirror switches worked. Today I just left home and same thing 1/2 hour in everything worked.

I webt to advancrd auto auto on Friday and there battery tester said "good battery" also I have run the climate control diagnostic without the engine running at lowest it drops to is 12.5.

As far as cause if this situation I noted above that the switches being lit and then going out 1/2 hour or so into driving situation was.happening intermittently prior to the overheating no alternator situation.

My understsbding from other other posts which I will reread tomorrow is that the relay in back is the same as the fuel relay but there are to different relays. I recall reading where others have switched these 2 relays to test them and then if fuel pump doesn't work you conclude the relay is the issue. Perhaps I misread these.

The other thing thst that is happening is a random defective lamp error message. I don't think this is related and plan on looking at bulb connections.

Will

Serndipity

tjanski

While I've tried to suggest several problem areas, lets call it a draw.

As a tired retired engineer, who appreciates the complexity of the power roof/RB system, I give up.

As Eisenstein once said, repeating the same resolution over and over (e.g. disconnecting the main battery), expecting a different outcome, is insanity.

While there have been numerous successes of DIY power roof repairs, in parting my from my earlier discussions, further suggestions, at this time, make little sense.

Huge suggestion: Pay to have your body code faults diagnosed by the MB STAR software.

However, from that point, w/o good trouble shooting skills, it's going to cost you much more.

burgca

I agree with prior post of two options
1. Buy a new battery - Reasoable cost for your description if this fails see 2
2. MB Diagnostic STAR scan for source of electrical fault (Not Autozone) from Dealer or private Benz shop, you don't list your location so unsure of what is in your area

Good Luck

Nice Ride

1. How old is your Battery?
2. What kind of meter did they use to Test your battery? A good battery tester will give you a complete printout and require running with different loads on it.
3. A bad Cell or two will not show up with a battery tester most of the time. You can have 12.5 Volts but extremely low amps...... Start with a Battery!!!

tjanoski

I am going to go back and have the battery rechecked. There were like 3 other cars waiting for service and there was a bit of a language barrier.

As as far as updates I did not drive very far on Saturday and the top switch and roll bar switch stayed lit all day. Same thing today only drive like 15 minutes and they stayed on this no windows or side mirror adjustments.

I think i may have found the mystery defective bulb issue. I had replaced the turn signal in the rear passenger side and rechecked it today and it seemed loose. Then I could not get it out. Finally came out a notice that the 2 metal lips that you push in and then turn to hold it in we're not line up. One was at 12 oclock the other at close like 5 oclock. The old bulb has these lips at 12 and 6 which align with the slots that hold the bulb in.

Gonna go back to advanced auto to discuss the bulbs and retest the battery sometime this week. Will report back.

tjanoski

The battery was purchased new in April 2016

tjanoski

Weird the turn signal bulb is 1156 not 7507. Weird since the clear bulb is 7506.

tjanoski

well yesterday I had arranged to get the star diagnostic done. It was warmer today and when I started the car guess what no top switch light, no roll bar light and widows and side mirror adjustments worked. Since everything worked i decided to wait on the star diagnostic till the warning lights were on again. Today got up still warm out and the switches were lit up. Drive 10 minutes and they went out and everything a worked. Gonna wait till they stay lit up for a period of time and then get the star done. Wondering if anything is indicated by the fact warmer weather seems to make the condition go away.

insame1

Star reads stored codes. You should really try taking some advice from the fine folks on this forum. Or are you just keeping records for yourself?

tjanoski

Sorry did not know this. Will get the star done when I am back in town. When I left this morning after a cold night the top and roll bar lights were on. And yes I have diligently tied all suggestions provided and they are greatly appreciated.