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Guys, my 2002 CLK55 convertible windows barely drop when I open the doors. I can see they drop upon opening and then go up when the doors are closed, but they only drop about 1/16" which is not effective. I figure they should drop about 1/2" ?
Is there any way to reset or adjust the window setting so they lower more when I open the doors, in order to get a good seal when closing the doors? Both sides seem about the same.
Your problem lies with the window alignment. You can resync the windows, but it will return rather soon. Open the door and look at its bottom. There are rubber caps that seal two or three holes in the metal. Take them out carefully, don't tear them. You have three adjustment screws.
One on the back, on a "slide" or something, for adjusting the angle in relation to the door/frame.
One on the back, one on the front to adjust how high the corresponding side goes. They look like this:
Okay I'll have a look tomorrow. I assume you mean lay on my back and look up at the bottom of the door for the rubber hole seals? Then do what, just try turning (assumed) adjustment knob and see if the drop increases? When you said:
"One on the back, on a "slide" or something, for adjusting the angle in relation to the door/frame.
One on the back, one on the front to adjust how high the corresponding side goes."
I got really confused but will have a look and try to play with it.
Please excuse my misleading words, had a really busy day yesterday I'll try again.
The photo above shows the rear and front window guides. The screws you see on them are the height adjustment E-Torx. They are located above rubber caps - on the front/rear bottom of the door respectively. Tightening the screws makes the window go lower.
You'll find that on the back side there's one more rubber cap that reveals a different type of screw, hex I think... It sits on a metal rail that's perpendicular to the car. Untighten it and you can slide the assembly to the left or to the right. Move to the left (driver's) - the window tilts towards the car. Move to the right (passenger's) - the window tilts away from the car.
I would try the resync before starting any adjustment of the window. If the window was correctly aligned and now it does not lower the correct distance, it seems that the limits are in need of adjustment. A resync should correct this. If the window does not seal correctly, I would start plying with the alignment adjustments.
Well I tried resyncing the windows first, which did nothing other than scare me when it made the drivers window switch stop working (it came back to life after using the convertible top auto-down window feature a few times though). I found the adjustment torx screws on the underside of the car and screwed them in a full 3 turns but it did not seem to do much. Wouldn't this change the window position full up and full down? All I was looking for is for the door windows to drop more when opening/closing the doors. As it is you can see they move and raise back up when the door is closed, but they hardly drop at all - maybe 1/32". What is the usual distance they should lower when the door opens?
Well I tried resyncing the windows first, which did nothing other than scare me when it made the drivers window switch stop working (it came back to life after using the convertible top auto-down window feature a few times though). I found the adjustment torx screws on the underside of the car and screwed them in a full 3 turns but it did not seem to do much. Wouldn't this change the window position full up and full down? All I was looking for is for the door windows to drop more when opening/closing the doors. As it is you can see they move and raise back up when the door is closed, but they hardly drop at all - maybe 1/32". What is the usual distance they should lower when the door opens?
...not trying to be jerk but how did you do the resync procedure?...can't use the auto up or down during the procedure. Are you saying that the procedure that you used did not allow you to use the manual up/down?
Yes I used the switches manually to resync. Did not use the express down method. Was not sure when holding button at end of travel l if I should press hard or just hold it at the first detent.
Yes I used the switches manually to resync. Did not use the express down method. Was not sure when holding button at end of travel l if I should press hard or just hold it at the first detent.
after you did that...is that when only the auto up/down worked? If I remember correctly, I believe that the when you hit the upper limit, you press hard for 5 seconds...same lower
also, you did have the key in position 2...on but not running engine..
Yes I used the switches manually to resync. Did not use the express down method. Was not sure when holding button at end of travel l if I should press hard or just hold it at the first detent.
The resynch is just fully lowering the window and holding the switch for at least 1 second, followed by raising the window fully and holding the switch for at least 1 second.
The doors must be closed when doing this.
To provide numerous window operating features, instead of limit switches the window motor shafts contain magnets that activate hall effect sensors. Each shaft rotation sends a pulse to the window controller. When fully lowered the pulse count is set to 0. When fully raised, the number of pulses are counted and stored in memory. The programed logic in the window controller then controls the motor on/off, direction as well as other window opening/closing features. For example, if the window is fully closed, upon opening the door, the window will drop about 1/2" , to clear the roof's rubber seal.
PS: If you're not successful doing the control module adaption, synchronization, as above, try the following. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. This will desynchronize the window controllers and erase the existing stored values. If the pulse count was exceeded in the fully open direction, instead of 0, the pulse count becomes negative. Then reconnect the battery and perform the resynch procedure, using the switches on the center console, as described above. Note: Disconnecting the battery will also erase the ABS/ESP and radio codes stored memory. Resynch the ABS/ESP system by turning your steering wheel, lock to lock (e.g. fully left, then fully right).
Last edited by Serndipity; Nov 19, 2016 at 09:40 PM.
Maybe my problem is I had the engine running when I did the resync. All of the door window functions are operating normally, the only problem is the windows Do not drop hardly at all upon opening and closing the doors. I will try resync once more and make sure the engine is not running...
No problem doing the resynch with the engine running. Actually, it is preferred as the electrical system provides full voltage to operate the window motors.
Make sure the doors are closed when doing the procedure.
Also see the PS: I since added, which will erase the existing stored values and provide a fresh starting point.
Still wish my side windows with drop-down futter when I open the doors as it is they do really nothing although I do detect some attempt at movement....
I am very careful when closing the doors I do not push against the glass. My windows work perfectly otherwise and don't make any funny sounds it's just when I open the doors and observe them closing I can see it wants to push the windows up but they really don't drop so not much happens...
Here. The driver's side doesn't drop as much as it's supposed to. The window regulator has a broken tooth and a broken plastic guide. The passenger's side works as intended.
Great video. Yours drops a large amount compared to mine... both my sides are kind of equal, they virtually do not drop down at all, but I can see that they try to, and then of course they try to close up but all they really do is move forward a tiny little bit.
I have one last idea. But first, just to be sure - you did try disconnecting the battery, right? That "soft reset" without disconnecting the battery never worked for me.
If you have a broken/loose plastic bracket somewhere on the window regulator assembly, that could cause the regulator to move a bit before it compensates for that play and move the glass itself. Can you try pushing down/pulling up on your windows? Are you able to move them by hand and feel looseness? If they feel tight, I don't know what else could cause it.
My car has been garaged its whole life. Regardless of that the windows are not moving as fast as they should and do not respond readily so I figure they're dry by now. I plan on replacing the broken regulator and cleaning/lubricating the other. I'll get to it this/next weekend and I'll report back if I see significant increase in speed/response.
Keep us posted.
Last edited by shadenfroh; Nov 22, 2016 at 03:03 AM.
I could disconnect the battery, I just got a little worried reading about everybody having all kinds of problems when that happens
I suggested, twice last week, to first disconnect the battery, prior to synchronizing (e.g normalizing) the door window controllers.
Doing so clears any rouge counter settings and prove a fresh start to the normalization process (e.g. see posts 10 and 12).
The only ill effects are that you'll get a ESP/BAS warning and have to reenter the radio code (e.g. to normalize you'll only have to turn your steering wheel, lock to lock and have your radio code handy).
I'm curious, as to what other problems have you have read about?
Also, IMHO, turning those window alignment screws was not a good thing to do. They are there to setup/correct your window glass not sliding properly within the guides and have made matters worst. Hint: You said that both your driver / passenger windows are malfunctioning in exactly the same way, as well as your comments in post #6 (e.g. related an attempt of resynch but then restored by power roof operation).
Please note that in our cabriolets, the power window operation is quite different then the coupes.
Specifically, while the door window operation has window controllers, the rear window operation is controlled by the power soft top controller.
They are interconnected via the CANBus. The CANBus uses specific protocol encoding as well as voltage encoding, between the door controllers, the lower field controller (e.g. rear windows).
Long story, short, doesn't much to upset the apple cart.
Perception: If the battery disconnect fails, get specific STAR diagnostic trouble codes.
This is excellent and detailed information. I'm going to disconnect the battery tonight and try to reset everything. I agree after looking at the screws on the bottom of the door and turning them I think they are just to align the windows in place and have nothing to do with the small up-and-down movement that happens upon opening and closing the doors. Thankfully that did not seem to change anything and I know how much I screwed them in so I can reverse the screws out. At least I did not touch the vertical alignment screw.
Regarding reading other posts I did a lot of researching on the site but couldn't find a post with the exact same problem as what I have. Most of them seem to be issues with people's windows raising all the way up and then lowering 2 inches. I have seen this happen on Infinitis as well and the resync is very similar to how we have to do it.
I will let you know if disconnecting the battery fixes things. I'm crossing my fingers.
Well I disconnected the battery which erased the express up/down feature of the windows. Upon resyncing the windows the express up/down feature once again started to work, but sadly it did nothing to create the desired 1/2" window drop upon door opening happen. The windows still only drop about 1mm when the doors open. Nothing in the manual about how to adjust or sync this.
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I'll try again.
