When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As soon as the car cranks the BAS and ABS lights..Then after I drive for 100 ft the ESP light comes on..I have a Foxwell tester and got no codes otehr then a seat belt wire I have had for the last year and seems to be in the seat but this is totally different..Car drives fine
I was driving the other day and when I pulled out it spun while turning so I let off and the problem started..I have cleared all codes my tester will clear and left battery disconnected for a few hours..
Any suggestions?
I did play around with my test set and was able to pull 2 codes c1401 ( high pressure and return pump ) and a c1000 ( ESP. SPS PML and BAS control unit..Can anybody help with what is saying is bad?
A stored C1000 DTC indicates that the N47 Traction Control Module operation is not correct, which can be due to either a faulty module or system input or output.
A stored C1401 DTC indicates that power to the high pressure return pump (A7/3m1) is either a short or open circuit or will not shut off.
Following is a diagram showing the components associated with the W208 ABS/BAS/ESP system.
Following are some troubleshooting suggestions that possibility could fix your issue for short money.
The N47 module is located in the passenger side fuse and relay box (K40/4) and power is provided via the 10 amp fuse in position 2.
As shown below, the power to the A7/3 hydraulic pump is provided from the F1 driver side fuse and relay box, by the 40 amp fuse in position 37.
When checking these fuses, I would also pull them out of the socket and make sure that there is not corrosion/buildup between the fuse contacts and socket.
If the power through the fuse is OK, when called for, the voltage and current to run the A7/3 hydraulic pump passes through the switching contacts of the K40/2k4 relay, located in the F1 fuse box.
When switching high currents, relay failure is not so much caused by high inrush current upon motor startup, which can potentially weld the contacts together (upon which the motor will run continuously until you pull the 40 ampere fuse), but because it's switching a highly inductive load (from the motor winding) and when the motor is switched off, the stored back emf causes a high voltage arc across the relay's open contacts, which in time damages the contact surfaces, upon which the motor will not get the necessary current to operate reliability, or at all.
Lastly, the S9/1 brake lamp switch has been a common problem regarding issues that cause a ABS/ESP/BAS trouble warnings. The switch actually has 2 separate circuits, one to turn on the rear stop lamps and the other to active the ABS/ESP/BAS system, whenever the brake pedal is pushed. If the circuit that activates on the ABS/ESP/BAS system does not function properly, due to improper plunger travel, a weak return spring etc., a warning will appear on the instrument cluster.
Hopefully, your issue is due to one of the above reasons, which are easy DIY repairs for short money.
The genuine MB OE relay is $15 or the Hella OEM part is $6. The genuine MB brake switch has been updated and is only around $20.
Very good information..I did replace the brake switch and doubt I have 2 bad ones but will check voltage..I am also going to buy a relay..
I am also wondering if a speed sensor is bad..Some times if I am accelerating and changing lanes on the hwy the traction control alert comes up but shutting off the car and back on clears it
Originally Posted by Serndipity
A stored C1000 DTC indicates that the N47 Traction Control Module operation is not correct, which can be due to either a faulty module or system input or output.
A stored C1401 DTC indicates that power to the high pressure return pump (A7/3m1) is either a short or open circuit or will not shut off.
Following is a diagram showing the components associated with the W208 ABS/BAS/ESP system.
Following are some troubleshooting suggestions that possibility could fix your issue for short money.
The N47 module is located in the passenger side fuse and relay box (K40/4) and power is provided via the 10 amp fuse in position 2.
As shown below, the power to the A7/3 hydraulic pump is provided from the F1 driver side fuse and relay box, by the 40 amp fuse in position 37.
When checking these fuses, I would also pull them out of the socket and make sure that there is not corrosion/buildup between the fuse contacts and socket.
If the power through the fuse is OK, when called for, the voltage and current to run the A7/3 hydraulic pump passes through the switching contacts of the K40/2k4 relay, located in the F1 fuse box.
When switching high currents, relay failure is not so much caused by high inrush current upon motor startup, which can potentially weld the contacts together (upon which the motor will run continuously until you pull the 40 ampere fuse), but because it's switching a highly inductive load (from the motor winding) and when the motor is switched off, the stored back emf causes a high voltage arc across the relay's open contacts, which in time damages the contact surfaces, upon which the motor will not get the necessary current to operate reliability, or at all.
Lastly, the S9/1 brake lamp switch has been a common problem regarding issues that cause a ABS/ESP/BAS trouble warnings. The switch actually has 2 separate circuits, one to turn on the rear stop lamps and the other to active the ABS/ESP/BAS system, whenever the brake pedal is pushed. If the circuit that activates on the ABS/ESP/BAS system does not function properly, due to improper plunger travel, a weak return spring etc., a warning will appear on the instrument cluster.
Hopefully, your issue is due to one of the above reasons, which are easy DIY repairs for short money.
The genuine MB OE relay is $15 or the Hella OEM part is $6. The genuine MB brake switch has been updated and is only around $20.
Does anybody know where the ABS relay is at on a 2002 clk430?
I assume that you have done all the searches on this site dealing with ABS....almost all of the problems arrise from a defective $15 brake light switch malfunction that throws ABS warnings...get OEM from dealer...please reply if that works for you.
I have done hours of searching and a lot of folks have replaced a lot of parts and still have the issue Amazon sent the wrong relay so waiting on a new one..Also ordered a MB brake switch.
I did find a test to verify the speed sensors are all working.
Today I got a P2068 and a P2036 code..Could this be a common fuse?
Replaced the Relay, replaced the brake switch again with a mercedes one..Same results
I did play around more with my fox test set and the one code/error that keeps coming back is c1-401-016 high pressure and return pump.
I have also been doing testing and 95% sure traction control and ABS are working but getting the lights..
Anymore suggestions.Debating puling each wheel off and checking but when I look at the speeds on my test set they show zero then all go up when moving..
Next step is taking it to a local shop, not stealership, and letting them look at it but it passed emissions and I may sell it this year so hate to spend a lot on it.
Is there any wires under the car that would have broke when the motor mounts did. I have ramps but the car is so low its still hard.
My this all started when the motor mounts broke.
10-20-2019, 08:41 PM
Amazon sent the wrong relay so waiting on a new one..Also ordered a MB brake switch.
Still can't fix this weird issue
