jan27299

02 clk320 cabriolet
bought it October last year.
Top was fine until last week.
Opened and Closed no issues but when I drove the next day it started beeping for 10 seconds.

Tried to open the top and windows go down but won't work.
Rear headrest moves up and down.
Windows automatically goes down when top switch is pressed or pulled.

Trunk won't open unless I use manual key.
Checked the top cover in trunk and it's clipped on fine.
I even tie strapped it since last year.
Top switch blinks when driving.

Top is seated properly and I used the top tool to make sure it's locked in place. The one right behind the middle of rear seats.

I searched online and this forum and can't figure out what to check and do.

Can someone please point me in the right direction?
Pictures, videos or diagrams are appreciated as well.

Thanks,
Jan

Mercnotworking

Hi Jan,

I spent 18 months fixing my roof and it worked perfectly for over a year. There was a faulty switch.

This link was one of my starting points.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...-failures.html

Here's another one, which led to the solution.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...p-problem.html

Without doing a full diagnosis, here's some first thoughts. Check the fluid level on the hydraulic pump (see Tophydraulics' excellent videos to find out how). if it ain't ok, then there may be a leak somewhere. If the fluid is ok, then it sounds like one of your switches is faulty. Use Serendipity's excellent diagrams to fault find and then replace the switch. if that is the fault.

Don't panic and have fun.

jan27299

From link 2.
It only does up to step 2 which rolls down my windows.
The lock on the rear how does not release.

Do I need a scanner to get whatever code I see everyone posting like s84/15?

Mercnotworking

Hi,
You said earlier that that you can put the roll bar up and down separately. You could try putting the roll bar up before starting the process. If it drops automatically at the same time as the windows go down then that suggests it is stage 3 where the issue lies.

D

jan27299

So finally had a sunny day.
I tried opening it again and same issue.
I then realized I didn't turn back the hydraulic pressure last time I manually opened /closed the top.

I was in a rush to go out so I just manually opened the top again.

Once I got home, I just put up the rear headrest and pressed the button to close the top to see if the rear headrest goes down


Well to my surprise, the top started working and closed by itself.

I didn't even turn the pressure back on and it still closed fine.

Mercnotworking

Sometimes manually recycling the roof is the solution.
Well Done!!

Serndipity

Just a quick note to explain the annoying beeping that jam27299 mentioned.

The N52 Power Roof/Roll-bar controller communicates with the N70 Overhead control panel control module via the body CANBus.

It's purpose is:

- At the end of each soft-top opening or closing operation, a chime signal is sounded for 1 second to confirm correct opening or closing implementation.
- During driving mode and with an incorrectly locked soft top, a warning signal sounds for 10 seconds.

Note: For further output of the warning signal, the system is reset by an Ignition "ON" and "OFF" again cycle and will continue until a power roof system position/limit switch, associated with the roof being properly opened/closed and locked, has been correctly actuated.

jan27299

It's back again.
top won't open and starts beeping when I drive.

Mercnotworking

Okay, Don't Panic. This is fixable but you do need to work logically and methodically through this challenge. It sounds like one of the sensors is faulty because the 10 seconds of annoying beeps (or 12 beeps)*

First Step. Do the roll over bars still work? - if so, then you can probably rule out any issues with electrics and the hydraulic pump.

Next step. manually recycle the soft top roof, put the roll bars up to shut both the rear bow and the luggage cover.

Then, start closing the roof, watching to see if the electric windows retract roll bars come down and if the rear boot locks. if all these work then it's not stage 2. Continue closing until you reach the fail point and work out which stage it's failing at using serndipity's amazing diagram in this post. https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...p-problem.html

From what you've said already, this could s25a1 which is easy to access - see Serndipity's post in the above link.

Have fun.

PS i lived with that 10 sec (12 beep) beep for over a year which went off if you hit a pothole and when you started up the car. Not much fun but the car still went (usually).

jan27299

I will try this when its sunny again.
But when it closed the last time, i did not hear a beep.
Basically pushed the button and the read cover oped to my surprise and the entire thing went though the steps until the rear bow closed/locked.
The front part of the top stopped about 5 inches from the windshield but no single beep sound.
at this point i just pulled the top down and locked it in.

rollover bar i assume is what brings the rear headrest up/down.
That always worked with the switch.
And it automatically went down the last time the top closed properly.

jan27299

Had the time to try it out yesterday and today.

1) I tightened the hydraulic tension from the trunk by turning it clockwise, did this because I loosened it the last time I manually opened the top.
2) unlocked top and all 4 windows went down.
3) rear of top unlocks from the back cover and lifts up.
4) rear cover opens and rear of top goes down.

That's where it stopped.
The rear of the softop just went down as low as how it would be if rear cover was closed.
I manually put the top down in the trunk and had to lock the rear cover with the softop tool.

Putting softop back up has no issues.
opens cover, lifts top up, cover closes, top locks to cover.
It goes through the entire thing properly.

But it still beeps every time I drive initially.
Tried 2x more yesterday and same all 3x.
Today same thing.

Mercnotworking

Hi Jan,

In my humble opinion it seems to be related to the rear bow.

Here's what serndipity said to me about the issue I had.

David.......from what you have described, it appears that your problem is likely being caused by a malfunctioning input/output to the soft top controller and replacing the hydraulic pump and controller was an unnecessary and expensive repair.

As shown below, the fault occurs at stage 6, while closing the roof, which is prohibiting stage 7 to function properly.



The next document shows the necessary actualization's, at each stage, that are required for the power roof operation to proceed.



Further analysis of this information will greatly assist in diagnosing/troubleshooting/repairing the power roof.

Typically, the repair will be a malfunctioning position/limit switch or hydraulic cylinder, which then can be DIY or shop corrected at low cost.

Me again.

The diagrams above relate to closing the soft top and your issue seems to be opening the soft top.

I would now follow the diagram back from stage 11 to get to the stage where it fails.

Then look at the "Limit Switch Statuses" diagram to see which switch could be faulty. and then work out how to replace the switch.

if you take your time and work it out correctly, you will save yourself a HUGE amount of cash.




There is quite a lot of information here - https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...k-problem.html

Always pay close attention to serndipity's notes, as they are invaluable.

Keep going. you've made it this far.

David.

jan27299

So i found some pictures online on how the softop open sequence.



I basically make it to step 7 where the rear bow goes back down after step 6 is completed.
but thats as far as it makes it.

On another note after the last time i closed it, the beeping stopped.
I also read up on a different forum that it could be my relay either needing a good cleaning or replacement.


I will try cleaning it the next time i have a couple of hours to spare to take apart the trunk to get to the pump.
Will update everyone if this fixes my issue or a replacement.

Mercnotworking

Cleaning the relay is definitely worth trying. Getting to the pump is quite a slog so it's worth getting a new relay, if you're going to go to all that effort. I don't think they are expensive or hard to get hold of.


That said, I would be very surprised if it is the relay. Your hydraulic system is doing nearly everything it is asked to do and the annoying beeps are a clear sign of one sensor not doing its job.

If it is a sensor, then you have 2 challenges to overcome:

1. identifying which sensor is failing
2. replacing it.

You will save yourself huge ££££ if you can overcome these.

Good luck, don't give up.

David