We bought this 2000 CLK 320 Cabriolet with only 76,121 miles on it. We’re just the third owner and we have all maintenance records for the car from the time it was new. We even have the original window sticker for it. It’s been garage kept and never seen a winter. No rust, minor scratches here and there, immaculate top and the interior is in great shape. Everything works but the A/C and it needs new tires. It runs great and the ride is smooth (no shimmy) even with the old tires. Got it for a good price, too! Those are the pros and cons. Hoping someone can tell me what to look out for on this model.

Top down and my beautiful wife behind the wheel.

 

That is such a cool car. You have bought very well, my man.

Gosh - common issues on CLK??

The power hood often fails and is a right pain to diagnose.

The Transmission fluid does need replaced every 60k miles or so.

The boot/trunk lock often corrodes through lack of use with the metal key. A replacement lock with a key is like gold dust. That's important because if the power hood fails during operation the boot will lock shut and manual operation of the roof becomes impossible.

Rust is a huge issue with rainy uk cars, but yours looks perfect.

Engines are great and need little maintenance. New cabin pollen filters can make a huge difference to ventilation.

The car is definitely not a fast sports car, but a glorious grand tourer. The steering is not rack and pinion and can be very wobbly.

I love my 208 cabriolet, but really I would have much smarter to buy newer 209 and avoided all the "fun and games" of fixing it.

Enjoy. It looks great.

 

Thanks for the information! We were looking for a grand tourer and not a sports car, so this one will be great for us. I’ll check out the lock on the boot today. I think a transmission fluid replacement would be a good idea, too. The top is working perfectly right now, so fingers crossed! Just detailed it and it looks even better. Can’t wait to get new tires and put her on the road! We’re still waiting for tags, so it’ll probably be next week. Thanks again!

 

The factory recommends the brake fluid be changed every two years. Agree on the transmission fluid change. I also bought a 2000 CLK 320 Cabriolet (garage kept) not as low miles as yours, but still good (114,000 when I bought it July 2018)). I hope you can keep her in a garage, they don't like too much moisture. I think just using the boot helps. I think there's a little doohickey that helps push up the boot lid that you might spray WD40 on. If you got two keys with your car, guard one with your life cause thy're expensive. Use the mechanical key for the boot occasionally to keep the mechanical lock operational (graphite lubricant?).

 

Thanks for the information! I’ll get the brake fluid changed when I change the transmission fluid. We have two keys, so we’ll take care of them. The mechanical key doesn’t open the boot right now. We’ll try the graphite spray and see if that works. .

 

Finally got plates and registration for her, so she’s ours and she’s legal. Just need to get her serviced and inspected on Monday.

We put some new tires on her and she drives and rides so much better! Pirelli P4 Plus. Such a difference.

We are still slowly cleaning her up to our standards. She was a little dingy on the inside. She’s looking and smelling better.

Bought some top cleaner and protectant. The top is really clean and dark, but we want to get some protectant/repellent on it to keep it that way.

She is still running great. Took her out for a spin last evening and got ice cream. She performed beautifully. We’re looking forward to many years of enjoying this machine.

 

After using graphite, it still didn’t seem the key worked to open the trunk. I accidentally pushed while turning and it opened! I thought that maybe it was just the key fob allowing me to push the button for trunk access, so I put it inside the house and tried again. Success! The mechanical key works! I also found out that the alarm works since the doors were still locked when I opened the trunk mechanically. lol! Anyway, thought I’d share a victory, no matter how small!

 

Glad you used a graphite lubricant, as while WD40 is a solvent, it is not a lubricant and tends to leave behind a residue, that can gum up a mechanism.

Also seems that you stumbled across the way to use the mechanical key to open the trunk as well. Specifically, when using the fob or center console trunk release, the latch is pneumatically released by moving a lever. When using the mechanical key. the latch is not released by traditional tumbler action. After you insert the key, turn the key 45 degrees counterclockwise and then push the key inward (e.g. which will override the pneumatic system and move the lever to release the latch).

The above is covered in the owner's manual as well as being able to choose for the central locking system to either operate in 'selective' or 'global' locking mode.

When you read your owner's manual, it also tells you that the transmission never requires servicing. Apparently, the marketing department even convinced the engineering department, that by using newer synthetic fluids, the drain bolt on the torque converter was eliminated, the fill tube was sealed etc.. However, when transmission started failing to operate properly, due to normal wear deposits (e.g. from the metal gears, Graphite clutches etc.) MB changed their mind and recommended that the transmission be serviced at 40,000 miles and every 40,000 miles thereafter. The service will drain the fluid from transmission sump (e.g. about 5 quarts), replace the fluid and filter, as well as the valve body's wiring harness pilot bushing, which at dealerships will run around $325.

 

Thanks for the information. I definitely plan on getting the transmission fluid service. I’d imagine that it would be cheaper at an indy shop. I know that Service B, which is due, is considerably cheaper than what I was quoted by the dealership. This is a pretty reputable indy shop in my area, so I feel good going to them. We’ll see how they do tomorrow!

 

Nice find! Enjoy! Convertibles are so much fun! A/C might just need some R134a. Toss in a can and you should be good. If you have a leak that is bad the A/C will stop working. If it is just a summer car and it is a slow leak might just be better to charge the system once a year.
I had the same issue with my 2002 CLK430.

 

Thanks! I had the A/C partially charged and it’s been holding it with no leaks (they used dye). So, I’m having it charged the rest of the way. It’s just a summer car, but It would be nice for this to fix the A/C. We’re going on a trip tomorrow and it might rain, so A/C would be nice!

 

Hello again Scott,

Any issues with the W208/A208 HVAC system can easily be identified and repaired, using just the N52 dashboard push button controller, which has complete builtin self test diagnostic capabilities.

There are 3 different test, you can run.

The first test will show you the current actual values, of numerous system parameters. as you step through the test (e.g. the level of vehicle battery voltage to the controller, the left and right heater core temperatures, the blower control voltage level etc.). Often this alone, will indicate where the problem is and what needs to repaired.

For example, in step #7, the N52 display will show you the current refrigerant pressure, as well as the refrigerant temperature in step #8.

Unless the pressure is low, I respectfully disagree that the system refrigerant should be recharged every year. Specifically, I have owned my A208 since new and 19+ years later, my AC is still icy cold, with just the initial factory fill.

Additionally, on the A208, when the soft top is open, the power soft top controller with override the in car temperature sensor and the AC system will not run.

However, there are occasionally very hot days, when rather then closing the roof and running the AC, you can still enjoy comfortable top down driving. Although you won't find it in the owner's manual all you have to do is change the AC operation mode, from automatic to manual. Then with the rear seat wind defector in place, the windows up, you'll be able to manually adjust both the vent temperature and blower fan speed, for a comfortable ride.

If running system parameter value test doesn't provide the solution, there is also a test that will show specific diagnostic trouble codes that are stored in the the controllers memory (which require repair and DTC erased) as well as a flap test (used to troubleshoot issues with the air flow vent vacuum actualization's).

Armed with the aforementioned test and knowledge of the system components, a good shade tree mechanic should be able to DIY diagnose, repair and maintain their HVAC system.

 

Thanks for the information on the A/C! I’ll try the test and the info on the top down and the A/C will come in handy. We got her charged on Tuesday and have been running the A/C daily since and it’s been ice cold. So far so good!

After getting a bunch of critical maintenance done, I’m going to wait to service the transmission fluid until the spring when I do Service A. I’m also going to replace the seal on the axle at that time. It’s seeping a little right now. Nothing bad, but it needs to be done.

She has been a joy to drive and we’re currently driving her around on vacation. Cruising through the Adirondacks with the top down has been amazing! Happy motoring!