xenon not turning on?
#1
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'79 300D, '85 300Dt, '99 CLK430
xenon not turning on?
Hello all, I had my car stored for about 1 month during harsh winter. A few days ago I reconnected the battery, and every thing was fine except, the passenger side xenon does not work. I checked the fuse box, and its good, all the connections are good too, and I’m not sure what to do next Any advise before I head down to the dealership?
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GL320CDI / C63 Edition 507 Coupe (EDP) / E63 S (on order) / G500 / Smart Brabus
If your car is under warranty, just take it to the dealership.
If you want to save some money, you can diagnose it yourself. If you're sure the connections and fuses are good... Try swapping the bulbs to see if the problem follows the bulb. If so, then you can change the bulb yourself. If the problem remains with the headlight, it might be the ballast/ignitor. If you're adventurous and/or technical, you can try to swap these yourself to see if the problem follows that. If it is the ballast, the dealership would replace the whole headlight, and great expense. With your resources here at mbworld, you can get a ballast for less money and replace just that.
-s-
If you want to save some money, you can diagnose it yourself. If you're sure the connections and fuses are good... Try swapping the bulbs to see if the problem follows the bulb. If so, then you can change the bulb yourself. If the problem remains with the headlight, it might be the ballast/ignitor. If you're adventurous and/or technical, you can try to swap these yourself to see if the problem follows that. If it is the ballast, the dealership would replace the whole headlight, and great expense. With your resources here at mbworld, you can get a ballast for less money and replace just that.
-s-
#3
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'79 300D, '85 300Dt, '99 CLK430
Thanks very much for the informative reply! Turns out it was the bulb I assumed the bulb was not the cause of the problem because it worked last month. Any idea on the pricing of a xenon bulb? I phoned the dealer, and they want 180$CAN (145.464 USD)
#5
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Originally Posted by 999hpCLK
Thanks very much for the informative reply! Turns out it was the bulb I assumed the bulb was not the cause of the problem because it worked last month. Any idea on the pricing of a xenon bulb? I phoned the dealer, and they want 180$CAN (145.464 USD)
heres a used one on ebay that should work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
#7
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Originally Posted by CLK430ROB
I have a set of OEM HID bulbs in my possession. Don't need them, as I upgraded my bulbs to 7200k. They were taken off the car at about 20k miles.
Rob
Rob
if i was you 999hpCLK, id either
A) grab these from clk430rob so you have a matching set that will look the same on both drivers and passenger side
B) upgrade to 6000k or 8000k. i prefer 8000k personally
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#9
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Clueless
Can someone clue me in on the 6000, 7200, 8000 "k" factor?
#10
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Originally Posted by lowphat
Can someone clue me in on the 6000, 7200, 8000 "k" factor?
#11
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Originally Posted by mmgrad
the higher the K rating, the whiter the light... 4300k is the "optimal" setting of white balance.... anything above that, it starts becoming blue (6-8000k)... a lot of people have the misconception that bluer light equals brighter light... but, it really doesn't... it just creates tremendous glare which equals eye fatigue for driver and other cars...
#12
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Originally Posted by mmgrad
the higher the K rating, the whiter the light... 4300k is the "optimal" setting of white balance.... anything above that, it starts becoming blue (6-8000k)... a lot of people have the misconception that bluer light equals brighter light... but, it really doesn't... it just creates tremendous glare which equals eye fatigue for driver and other cars...
Thanks.
#13
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Originally Posted by BklynBenz
this is true, but at least here in nyc there are street lights everywhere and the amount of lost light due to the higher kelvin temp isnt really noticeable. if all you do is drive on back country roads with no street lights im sure upgrading to a 6000k or an 8000k will make things tougher to see. i was going for looks more than practacality with my car
#16
mmgrad is exactly rite....the higher in temperature rating you go, the less "brighter" it gets. the "K" stands for KELVIN (temperature rating like degrees "C" celcius and "F" Fahrenheit) The 4300K, 6000K and 8000K are just points off a light spectrometer. Imagine a spectrometer being a measurement output that of a rainbow in those color scales. 4300K would be white color leaning towards blue, and 6000K is blue, and 8000K is almost purplish pink...now anything less than 4300K would give you a more yellowish tinted white and so forth and so on down the other way of the chart. Hope this helps!
#17
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Originally Posted by CLK430
mmgrad is exactly rite....the higher in temperature rating you go, the less "brighter" it gets. the "K" stands for KELVIN (temperature rating like degrees "C" celcius and "F" Fahrenheit) The 4300K, 6000K and 8000K are just points off a light spectrometer. Imagine a spectrometer being a measurement output that of a rainbow in those color scales. 4300K would be white color leaning towards blue, and 6000K is blue, and 8000K is almost purplish pink...now anything less than 4300K would give you a more yellowish tinted white and so forth and so on down the other way of the chart. Hope this helps!