Clk Cel
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Richmond BC, Canada
335is
Clk Cel
first time poster so a lil history about me... ok so i'm driving a CLK320(2000) passed on from my brother... it's a great car.... my first car also.... only mods r tinted windows, eurolite fogs, and took out the 2 middle yellow lights...
ok the problem is... i have this CEL comming on from time to time.... the car seems to drive perfectilly normal tho.... the only time it felt weird was the first time it came on for me... it felt like... the gearbox is scrwed.... it changes gears like when the car is not warmed up.... then the CEL went out and i thought ok... no problem.... then it came back again but this time the gearbox seems fine... anyone else know what might be the problem? thanks...
ok the problem is... i have this CEL comming on from time to time.... the car seems to drive perfectilly normal tho.... the only time it felt weird was the first time it came on for me... it felt like... the gearbox is scrwed.... it changes gears like when the car is not warmed up.... then the CEL went out and i thought ok... no problem.... then it came back again but this time the gearbox seems fine... anyone else know what might be the problem? thanks...
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From: So Cal
W213 '17 E43 ///AMG - W211, W208 no more
well, the easiest way to find out what the problem is is to get a diagnostics check...
if you don't wanna pay top dollar to the dealer, just go to an autozone to "borrow" their diagnostics tool and scan it.....
if your car is under warranty, then definitely take it to the dealer for a checkup...
if you don't wanna pay top dollar to the dealer, just go to an autozone to "borrow" their diagnostics tool and scan it.....
if your car is under warranty, then definitely take it to the dealer for a checkup...
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Mile High City
W208
Originally Posted by mmgrad
well, the easiest way to find out what the problem is is to get a diagnostics check...
if you don't wanna pay top dollar to the dealer, just go to an autozone to "borrow" their diagnostics tool and scan it.....
if your car is under warranty, then definitely take it to the dealer for a checkup...
if you don't wanna pay top dollar to the dealer, just go to an autozone to "borrow" their diagnostics tool and scan it.....
if your car is under warranty, then definitely take it to the dealer for a checkup...
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Autozone is a parts store like Checker Auto parts. Around here you give them your drivers license, go out in the parking lot with the code reader, plug it in and pull up the code(s). Bring it back in and you get your license back. Odds are your problem is the Mass air flow sensor or an O2 sensor. 
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Richmond BC, Canada
335is
um so today i brought my car to a repair shop and have them pull the code for ~$40.... they said the code was soemthign along the lines of air flow meter or mass air flow meter somethign liek that.... and from the very little automotive experience i have... it's probally the same thign u guys r talking about... any ideas about it? that guy said it's about 500-600 for the part... so now i wounder... what happened to that sensor? did it fry or somethign? and what if i don't fix it? will there be a problem? and oh what does that sensor do? thanks!!
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You can get a new one from ebay for around 100 - 150 bucks. I picked up 2 new ones for $99 each. I used one and one is in safe keeping just in case it goes bad again (which it probably will). The part takes about 5 mins to replace. If you don't replace it, you'll experience loss of power during full acceleration, rough idles and most importantly loss of fuel efficiency up to 30%. With gas prices the way they are these days, I would suggest buying the part. Just look for a sensor for a 112 engine on ebay. The sensor is the same for all 112 engine models.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Richmond BC, Canada
335is
thanks for the info... is there a way to tell by looking at the sensor if it has fried or how it failed?
and could too many WOT cause this part to fail? cause um... yea... i always go WOT/hard acceleration.... but i don't think i feel any difference in acceleration just yet....
and could too many WOT cause this part to fail? cause um... yea... i always go WOT/hard acceleration.... but i don't think i feel any difference in acceleration just yet....
Last edited by RX_Renesis; Jan 30, 2005 at 04:14 PM.
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nope....the only true way to tell if the sensor is bad is to hook the car up to a star diagnostics tool and check the adaptation values. Even the OBDII sensors at those autozones can be wrong. I hope you took your car to an MB specific independent shop. If not, did you get the actual codes they pulled from your car?
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Richmond BC, Canada
335is
um yea i think i have the codes written down somewhere.... they said if it happeneds again then i will probally leave them my car and they say they will test it for a few days to see if it's actually fried or just some malfunction.... cause they said wouldn't want to change a 600$ part for nothing.... they want to make sure b4 they change it out...
