He@t

It uses some weird bulb with a attached igniter its call D1S

And i have been googling forever to find a replacement for 8000K or higher but no luck.


Does anyone knmow what i can do to get a higher Kelvin bulb?

robertus

Hi,

I think you will fine the bulb is a D2s, where the black plastic of the bulb joins the metal housing it will actually twist approx half a turn and pull out.

If you have a magnifying lens in your lights on your car then they run D2s bulbs and all MB that have Xenon lights have these lenses.

Also do not touch the glass portion of the bulb with your bare hands because the life expectancy of the bulb is greatly reduced.

Also if it was me I would not go any higher than 8000k bulbs, the higher the K's the shorter the distance and 8000k is the turning point, well actually about 7000k is probably closer. 8000k looks quite blue plus you can put HB 7500K & H7 7500k PIAA's PlasmaBlue HID in your other high beams & fog lights.

Also you can put 6Led Super White's for your parkers but you have to use fixed load resisters so the bulb warning light on the dash does not come on because Leds draw less current.

The above lighting will make all the lights on your car be consistent in the blue colour.

Do a search on the forum, there Threads with "How to Install" and pictures of members showing installations.

Robertus

robertus

Hi Mate,

To follow on:-

I was just talking to a importer of Xenon bulbs, if MB has gone to the D1s bulbs it looks like it is for the US only. The replacement bulb from MB in Australia are saying they still use D2s

Yes it has its own built in igniter, the bayonet fitting on the base if a D1s is different to a D2s as the D1s base is suppose to be smaller. A lot of the Xenon lights now let you interchange D1s & D2s bulbs, read further down.

Anyway OSRAM & Phillips make D1s, the igniter does away for the need of running 23kv through the wires, I found the following:-

"D1S is a further developed D2S, to increase safety and elimnate the need to mount ballast inside or onto headlamp. The base of a D1S bulb has ignitor built in, eliminating the need to transfer 23kV through a cable. The Less components that can be harmed by mechanial impact, the safer it is. D1S is part of Philips "XenStart" system - see "HID Ballast" page for more info.

D1S is basically a D2S, where base is "cut halfway off" and a black box is mounted to the base. Which means D1S does not have any higher output. D1S system is backwords compatible. A D2S bulb can be mounted into a D1S socket of a OEM HID headlamp. When mounting a D1S into a D2S socket, you will see that bulbs seats great because mating base are identical. Its the securing part that can be questionable. Deep securing rings will not go under the ignitor box. An OEM HID headlamp designed for D1S typically use a spring clip to secure HID bulb. The spring rate is much higher than in traditional halogen system, mainly because of higher weight and need for more safety. A D2S bulb will m

The connector on D1S is different as well. Voltage from ballast is only around 85V, so extreme high voltage plugs are not needed."

The Bulb importer told me that 8000k D1s bulbs with igniter are available but as yet are just starting to hit the market.

Interest stuff

Robertus

robertus

Hi,

One last thing, they are saying, and if you read the quote in the last thread that although you cannot put a D1s bulb into a D2s holder because it won't be secure, you can actually put a D2s bulb into a D1s holder. The bulb itself is identical in power output its just the way the are housing the bulb as per the last thread.

If you check around you come across alot of manufactures stating that there replacement D2s bulbs replace both D1s & D2s.

Robertus

robertus

Hi, Have attached a image of how a D1s & D2s bulb is attached it its socket, in theory if you can get the D1s bulb out you can put a d2s bulb in.

He@t

I have tryd my hardest to twist counter clockwise and clockwise no luck it will now budge.

He@t

I read that somewhere while researching but there is no info at all on how to take out the actual bulb It seams pretty seated in. And the last thing i want to do is force it and break something. Ill still research more

robertus

Hi He@t,

A couple of things, I would probably buy a couple of cheap secondhand 4300k bulbs with igniters off EBay and pull them apart to see if you can get the actual bulb out of the plastic sockets as per the diagram above in my last post and swap the actual glass bulbs.( don't touch the glass)

The highest "K" bulb of this type (D1s) I have come across is 6000k from phillips, I think the standard bulb in the your CLK is 4300k. I have heard that Xteh make a 7000k D1s.

Also do you have the new adaptive Xenon lights, what I mean by that is when you turn around a corner do your lights turn as well and follow the corner. My new CLK55 AMG which arrives in 5 days comes with Xenon lights but sports cars are not allowed to have adaptive lights, in Australia anyway. I was thinking the reason why you may have igniters on the base of the bulb (D1s) is because of this.

In the passed adaptive lights were a optional extra, they now might be standard on the CLK500 in the USA?. Should check the MB USA website?

Robertus

Vader55

He@t , There is a special small tool used to take that bulb out I believe. I have a buddy who sells those and that is what he said.. I have not messed with a d1s before. His info is http://suvlights.com/ Richard

HID Xenon Bulbs

No picture yet
Osrams 5400K Xenon D1S-HC
$175 each

Osrams 4250K Xenon D1S
$150 each

Osrams 4250K Xenon D1R
$150 each

XenStart™ D1S bulb with starter

$150.00 each