I just got my car recently.. umm i was wondering about pads? i found some aftermarket ones.. there pretty cheap dunno about quality thou.. also this is my first MB.. and i was also curious about doing my own brake job? is there anything i should be aware of or should i just bring it to my local shop to get my pads done or do "I HAVEEEEEEEE to go to the MB Dealer? =[" ???? everything is out of pocket and i dont wanna spend an arm and a leg on a brake job ya know? =]

I heard Akebono brakes are good (has less brake dust than the stock pads). You could have this done at a independent shop that has MB experience. Lastly, you can get the Service Manual for the car and do it yourself, I breezed through the procedure on my copy; it doesn't look that bad.

Good Luck!

haha thats the ones i added to my car =] cool beans... hey what the hell ill give it a shot my self how hard can it be? i mean i did brake jobs on my parents explorer for them my eclipse which is still in my garage.. and stuff is it similar to that? do i need to disconnect the battery or anything for any odd reason ? ... cuz im on the blind on this one i never done it before on a benz

When it comes to brake pads, I always remember one thing...you get what you pay for.

oh trust me i agree im the first to belive in that =o] ... i read on some website if ur going to do your brakes your self you have to disable the SBC brake system or some ****? what is this?... or is it just straight meat and potatos drop the calipers pop em out and put the new in?

Yes, also bleed the brake lines, check if the rotors are okay and replace the brake sensor if necessary (our cars gives us a warning when the brake pads are low, if you saw this warning, replace the sensor).

The CLK doesn’t have Sensotronic Brake Control. If it did, you’d have to disable the system to do the brakes.

As for pads, with the MBCA discount, I paid $62 for the front pads and $42 for the rear. And for performance, the OEM brakes are great. The CLK500 stops from sixty in the same distance as a CLK430; 121 feet. That’s two feet further than a 2004 911 GT3.

Changing them is straight forward. While I’m at it, I make it a point to mic the rotors (mine are usually good for 2 sets of pads) and flush the fluid.

flud is new.. i did that already the pads have meat but just to be double sure i wanna put new ones on... and ill def check the rotors but they seem pretty much new.. the car only has 30k miles on it.. no wottles when i hit the brakes or anything.. the sensors didnt go off or anything? maybe i should hold off on doin em?... i dunno.. but is that GREEN AIR FILTER worth the buck over the stock or K&N's?

go with EBC Red stuff . and im using the K&N filter without any problem.

Andy

i'm looking to do my brakes soon. after much reseach, i decided to go with stock rotors and Porterfield R4-S pads.

I just finished doing a brake job on my clk 500 a month ago. If you pay someone to replace your pads then you need to be shoot. This car is so nice when it comes to replacing your pads. for each caliper take out the two pins and the retaining plate that pops out slide out your pads slide in new pads put retaining plate and pins back in your done. never half to take the rotor off. When I did mine I replaced the front rotors at 30k miles because they were uneven. As for pads go with a ceramic pad you will not regret it. I purchased everything from R1 Concepts and they gave me a great deal give them a call.

I actually replaced my pads with some junk pads I thought were good and I am now paying for it. So I just ordered some cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramice brake pads for the front and rears. So now I wound up spending $700 bucks for a brake job that should've only costed me around $200. Whatever you do don't go cheap...