Remove the driver side interior panel to fix the Window rattling noise
07-12-2014, 07:11 AM
#26
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Victoria Harbour Canada
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2008 CLK 63 Convertible
You could be my hero!
My passenger door window noise is driving me bananas. I'll check your solution today!
2004 CLK 500 Sport package convertible.
2004 CLK 500 Sport package convertible.
10-30-2020, 02:44 PM
#27
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Join Date: May 2020
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2007 clk350
Dont have the SRS tag on mine
My 2007 CLK350 convertible doesn't have the SRS tag, and I need to replace the door control module... I tried to follow a youtube video but it doesn't work the same in mine..
Cliff note 1: If your window is rattling, pull the rubber plugs on the bottom side of the door, see if are missing any bolts. If you are, that might very well be the reason why.
Cliff note 2: If you want to remove the door panel, then read on.
I have had my CLK for almost 2 months now. My driver side window is rattling when I drive over the bump. It is very annoying consider that CLK is quiet (well, compare to my Subaru) and that the rattling noise is exceptionally loud because of it. Also, I was not able to close the door smoothly, it takes quite an effort to close the door. After doing some search on the board, and really did not find much info except going to the dealership. Unfortunately, I do not have extended warranty so I was left with no choice but DIY.
Attachment 384100
Remove the SRS tag and remove the torx bolt
Attachment 384101
Remove the round tag and remove the second torx bolt
Attachment 384102
Remove the chrome plate, 3 small torx bolt.
Also remove the plastic piece right underneath it, 1 torx bolt (no pix, sorry)
Attachment 384103
Pop the twitter.
Attachment 384104
Ok, now ready to remove the interior panel. start from the bottom, pull gently, the clips will pop, work your way to the top.
Attachment 384105
Attachment 384106
Remove connectors that are connected to the door. Also unhook the door handle.
After I did all that, I finally realized that I have very limited access to the windows regulator to search for the rattling. So I was about to give up and either to live with the rattling, or go to the dealership and bend over. BUT, I got curious with all the rubber plugs on the bottom side of the door, and I decided to pull them out. Little do I know, behind those rubber plugs are the windows regulator adjust/secure bolts. I also found the cause of the rattling as well. I was missing 1 nut, which cause the window regulators to bounce freely.
Attachment 384107
I put another nut in there, and the noise is gone, and the door can now shut tightly and smoothly was well.
Cliff note 2: If you want to remove the door panel, then read on.
I have had my CLK for almost 2 months now. My driver side window is rattling when I drive over the bump. It is very annoying consider that CLK is quiet (well, compare to my Subaru) and that the rattling noise is exceptionally loud because of it. Also, I was not able to close the door smoothly, it takes quite an effort to close the door. After doing some search on the board, and really did not find much info except going to the dealership. Unfortunately, I do not have extended warranty so I was left with no choice but DIY.
Attachment 384100
Remove the SRS tag and remove the torx bolt
Attachment 384101
Remove the round tag and remove the second torx bolt
Attachment 384102
Remove the chrome plate, 3 small torx bolt.
Also remove the plastic piece right underneath it, 1 torx bolt (no pix, sorry)
Attachment 384103
Pop the twitter.
Attachment 384104
Ok, now ready to remove the interior panel. start from the bottom, pull gently, the clips will pop, work your way to the top.
Attachment 384105
Attachment 384106
Remove connectors that are connected to the door. Also unhook the door handle.
After I did all that, I finally realized that I have very limited access to the windows regulator to search for the rattling. So I was about to give up and either to live with the rattling, or go to the dealership and bend over. BUT, I got curious with all the rubber plugs on the bottom side of the door, and I decided to pull them out. Little do I know, behind those rubber plugs are the windows regulator adjust/secure bolts. I also found the cause of the rattling as well. I was missing 1 nut, which cause the window regulators to bounce freely.
Attachment 384107
I put another nut in there, and the noise is gone, and the door can now shut tightly and smoothly was well.
07-28-2024, 07:18 PM
#28
If you wind the window down to 80% open you can see where the bottom conrner is secured (or not in my case) with a star bolt. This is self-tapping and can easily be tightened using the right tools (or a pair of mole-grips) to stop the window from rattling.
I'd post a nice pic to show you but got so carried away with how my repair had gone, it's all back in one piece now - sorry.
I'd post a nice pic to show you but got so carried away with how my repair had gone, it's all back in one piece now - sorry.
A standard (small!) socket fits on that bolt perfectly.
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rich1068 (07-29-2024)
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Timmyboy (07-29-2024)
07-29-2024, 10:28 PM
#30
Junior Member
Timmyboy, great post thanks. I'm interested in how you removed the door interior trim panel. A while ago I replaced the power windows control panel (broken switch), but along the way I found I could not remove the door trim panel (with the last "pull back and up" manoeuvre), despite having removed all clips, handle connector etc. etc. exactly as per the WIS instructions. I eventually was able to replace the switch panel by working from below the with the trim panel propped out to give (just) enough room. So can you advise of any final tricks in getting the panel off please? I stopped when the forces being applied by me felt too big. Thanks.
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Timmyboy (07-30-2024)
07-30-2024, 04:36 AM
#31
I've had the door cards off before to replace the silver trim for wood and used this YT video as a guide. Unlike your CLK, mine is pre-facelift but hopefully the same procedure.
When everything is unscrewed lifting the panel from the top of the door does need a bit of a tug. Certainly more than in the video but I'd guess he's had his off before to aid the filming. It also needs careful positioning when refitting. It's very easy to have the top of the door card not quite right.
When everything is unscrewed lifting the panel from the top of the door does need a bit of a tug. Certainly more than in the video but I'd guess he's had his off before to aid the filming. It also needs careful positioning when refitting. It's very easy to have the top of the door card not quite right.
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Timmyboy (07-30-2024)
07-30-2024, 05:29 AM
#32
I used that exact same video Rich has posted, both times I've had the door card off - and found the same experience both times which is very similar to what the video shows.
In my case, I also concluded too much upward force was being applied and the door card was in danger of snapping.
Once all the bolts/screws were off and the retaining plastic poppers unpopped on both sides and the bottom (so the door card is free to flap/swing at the bottom, still stuck to the door at the top) I gently forced the top of the door card, still with the horizontal rubber strip which runs from left to right and down the inner door panel attached, of the top of the door - then let the door sit on the plastic trays you can see in my photo (important to have some support, so you don't stress/tear the rubber). It is then fairly easy to pull that same rubber strip DOWN all along the top, where it will be stuck to the door card. The rubber is then free and can be balanced on the top of the door panel, leaving the door card to move away.
The 2nd time I did it (a few days ago) I found it far, far easier when re-assembling everything to first lay the rubber strip in exactly the correct position on top of the door - and then force/push the door card back into the correct little channel it needs to sit it. The first time I tried last year, I fixed the top rubber strip back to the door card BEFORE fitting back to the door - and it is quite difficult to judge exactly where it needs to be, to make sure everything is lined up - needed a couple of attempts.
Good luck!
In my case, I also concluded too much upward force was being applied and the door card was in danger of snapping.
Once all the bolts/screws were off and the retaining plastic poppers unpopped on both sides and the bottom (so the door card is free to flap/swing at the bottom, still stuck to the door at the top) I gently forced the top of the door card, still with the horizontal rubber strip which runs from left to right and down the inner door panel attached, of the top of the door - then let the door sit on the plastic trays you can see in my photo (important to have some support, so you don't stress/tear the rubber). It is then fairly easy to pull that same rubber strip DOWN all along the top, where it will be stuck to the door card. The rubber is then free and can be balanced on the top of the door panel, leaving the door card to move away.
The 2nd time I did it (a few days ago) I found it far, far easier when re-assembling everything to first lay the rubber strip in exactly the correct position on top of the door - and then force/push the door card back into the correct little channel it needs to sit it. The first time I tried last year, I fixed the top rubber strip back to the door card BEFORE fitting back to the door - and it is quite difficult to judge exactly where it needs to be, to make sure everything is lined up - needed a couple of attempts.
Good luck!
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rich1068 (07-30-2024)
07-30-2024, 11:33 PM
#33
Junior Member
Timmyboy thanks for this. I hadn't seen the video before - and it certainly would have helped me! As usual for many, doing the same job over again makes it seem like it was really just a piece of cake!
I've used this forum many, many times over the 6+ years of maintaining and repairing my CLK, and the community is one of the great things about owning a CLK.
I've used this forum many, many times over the 6+ years of maintaining and repairing my CLK, and the community is one of the great things about owning a CLK.
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rich1068 (07-31-2024)
