Installing sub and amp on clk350
#1
Installing sub and amp on clk350
I got a harmon/kardon system and i want to add a sub and amp. I already have all the equipment and i was wondering ifanybody has any idea how to install this. Ive installed a system in my integra before but im scared that since this is a much more expensive car theres a special way of doing it. Any tips? Thanks!
#2
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 559
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From: Planet Jupiter
2000 Volvo S40, 2006 Hummer H3, 2008 CLK550
I got a harmon/kardon system and i want to add a sub and amp. I already have all the equipment and i was wondering ifanybody has any idea how to install this. Ive installed a system in my integra before but im scared that since this is a much more expensive car theres a special way of doing it. Any tips? Thanks!
#4
he just need a pac to get the signal from the factory amp.
To the OP read this,
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...convertor.html
Andy
To the OP read this,
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...convertor.html
Andy
Last edited by M-bENZ; 11-12-2010 at 10:06 PM.
#7
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: A Canadian in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
'05 C200K SS, '05 Kleemann CLK500K, '08 Hummer H3 & '92 Z34 5sp (track car in Canada)
I got a harmon/kardon system and i want to add a sub and amp. I already have all the equipment and i was wondering ifanybody has any idea how to install this. Ive installed a system in my integra before but im scared that since this is a much more expensive car theres a special way of doing it. Any tips? Thanks!
What amp did you buy and does it have speaker level (high level) inputs? If so, you just use the wires coming off the factory sub for the line feed. If your amp doesn't have speaker level inputs then you need to get a line level converter, you'll still use the speaker wires comming off the sub for it.
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#9
i vote on the bestbuy idea. or go to any high end audio shop to do it. your gonna need to just tap into the wires which doesnt sound difficult but if you **** up, you might be looking at a new audio set up
#12
This will work and it is an easy install.
If just adding an amp and sub, maybe in the trunk, remove lower rear seats. Remove HK center box between the seats. Take the box apart to get to the speaker and add wires from the speaker into the trunk. From those wires add to amp and sub. For power (and ground) you can run from the battery under the door sill etc to the trunk.
If just adding an amp and sub, maybe in the trunk, remove lower rear seats. Remove HK center box between the seats. Take the box apart to get to the speaker and add wires from the speaker into the trunk. From those wires add to amp and sub. For power (and ground) you can run from the battery under the door sill etc to the trunk.
#13
yerp
I just did this install on my 550 with h/k. I spliced the +/- signal from the rear driver side speaker (sub). I ran the line from the speaker directly under the panel, wormed through some foam and found a convenient spot to exit under the deck in the trunk. From that Splice i used 2 adapters, 1 is the Line Level converter, and the other is a remote turn on switch.
I ran the Power from the battery. This was the longest part of the install since I really had to make myself cut the hole in the rubber panel for the wiring through the firewall. Once I did it though, I was surprised that the (4 guage) cable that I used fit perfect in the hole. It was easy to push the power cable under all the panels and run all the way to the back seat without taking any paneling off (I did have to remove the front seatbelt rear mount though, np). I used the anchor bolt under the trunk mat for the ground connection.
The remote turn on switch has (basically) 4 wires: signal, power, ground and remote. The remote turn on switch uses the signal wire to tell it when to send the signal to the amp, that is why it needs power. I plugged the power and ground wires into the amp with power and ground cables.
For the Line Level Converter, it uses the (high) signal inputs and possibly a ground if there is some static and converts it to RCA outputs (low signal freq). I only used 1 channel since I had only tapped 1 speaker (there are 4 inputs right +/- and left +/-), therefore I only have to use 1 RCA to the amp low freq input. Just make sure you use the same color for both (not white to grey stripe or grey to white stripe, only use grey solid and grey strip, etc. if running 1 channel)
This setup works great for me as for now I do not plan on getting my component speakers upgraded intil the last mod to my car. I am running a 12w3 with 250/1 amp. I only run the amp at about 50% capacity and it thumps very well.
Hope this helps.
I ran the Power from the battery. This was the longest part of the install since I really had to make myself cut the hole in the rubber panel for the wiring through the firewall. Once I did it though, I was surprised that the (4 guage) cable that I used fit perfect in the hole. It was easy to push the power cable under all the panels and run all the way to the back seat without taking any paneling off (I did have to remove the front seatbelt rear mount though, np). I used the anchor bolt under the trunk mat for the ground connection.
The remote turn on switch has (basically) 4 wires: signal, power, ground and remote. The remote turn on switch uses the signal wire to tell it when to send the signal to the amp, that is why it needs power. I plugged the power and ground wires into the amp with power and ground cables.
For the Line Level Converter, it uses the (high) signal inputs and possibly a ground if there is some static and converts it to RCA outputs (low signal freq). I only used 1 channel since I had only tapped 1 speaker (there are 4 inputs right +/- and left +/-), therefore I only have to use 1 RCA to the amp low freq input. Just make sure you use the same color for both (not white to grey stripe or grey to white stripe, only use grey solid and grey strip, etc. if running 1 channel)
This setup works great for me as for now I do not plan on getting my component speakers upgraded intil the last mod to my car. I am running a 12w3 with 250/1 amp. I only run the amp at about 50% capacity and it thumps very well.
Hope this helps.
#14
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: A Canadian in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
'05 C200K SS, '05 Kleemann CLK500K, '08 Hummer H3 & '92 Z34 5sp (track car in Canada)
That'll work but your only getting a mono track for bass, you should really tap both the left and right chanels.
#15
Agreed, but the speaker on the passenger side rear window is only a tweeter, so I wasn't sure it would give me the signal range I was wanting for a sub. It still bumps pretty good. No complaints here. Good tip though.
I was just getting lazy and dindn't want to tap one of the door speakers to get a full range signal.
I was just getting lazy and dindn't want to tap one of the door speakers to get a full range signal.
#20
Help with stereo system
I recently had a amp and subwoofer installed on my 2003 clk55. Now the stereo will just blast super loud and then the sub will shut off. The stereo will just go super loud to super low whild driving the same speed. HELP!!! Has any1 had this problem?
#22
Please don't take the car to Best Buy. Spend a bit more and take it to someone who has worked on these cars before. I'm not saying that the installers at BB aren't capable, but the electrical system in these cars is a PITA.
#25