megacrazy

The Bose speakers sound fine to me. Also, no need for a converter, simply get an amp that can handle 2ohm speakers. Plenty of choices out there.

megacrazy

It is one hell of a job indeed...but you don't feel like you're driving a 1994 Honda anymore...at least from an interior point of view So plenty of return there.

dariusf

I guess everyone has their own opinion To me when I compare Bose to even average price speakers there is night and day.

dariusf

well its a bit better looking then a 90s honda me think I like the wood trim as well

dariusf

Also do not forget you will have to run extra set of wires to each door so you will need to remove the door panels unless you tap in to the cables in the door seals. In that case no need to remove the door panels which now I remember I did.

There is a pair of cables (+ and -) from the front speaker and another pair from the tweeter in the doors. It is then joined together at the door seals in to a single pair which goes to the amp in the trunk. You will want to add a second pair there. This way you have one pair for the speaker and one for the tweeter. These two pairs per side will go to your crossovers. Then from the crossover will be single pair going to the amp. There is also a 3rd pair for the rear speaker in the doors (this can be reused).

dariusf

This is the amp I used 5 channels, 2 per side and 1 for sub.

http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-5

dariusf

The speakers I used, they sound very good in this car

Fronts + tweeters
Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch



Rears
Polk Audio DB651 6.5-Inch



Subwoofer
Polk Audio db1040 10-Inch

dariusf

The speakers mostly fit fine in the existing mounts. I did have to wrap the tweeters in couple layers of electrical tape on the outside edge so they fit snug in to the mounts. Then front or rear mounts had to have small modifications done to them to be able to mount the speakers. The plastic covers that came with the speakers were not used When the door panels were put back up you could not tell that there was any change to the speakers. You can see the silver cones just a little in light through the doors cloth coverings.

dariusf

The hardest part for me was figuring everything out and doing all the research upfront. Then committing to do the work. Was a bit scared to mass with the car. Running all the wires was a pain but I used wire fishing line. Getting in to the engine compartment for the power cable to the trunk was much easier but had to take the trim off on the passenger side. Also the head unit with million cables in the back was a pain to fit inside.

dariusf

dariusf

dariusf

mis3

Mine is a 2004 CLK320. I have a subwoofer under the center of the dash.

megacrazy

Why not simply tap the wires in the trunk where the amp used to be connected? Then all you have to do is run a set of cables to the dashboard.

Well I am not really an audiophile haha. I care more about engine noises. Regardless, how are the speakers you used holding up? I might buy them if any of the Bose ones decide to crap out.

dariusf

thats center channel, subwoofer is under the back shelf under the back window

pskdude

OK, Sorry i have been reading so many posts (new and old) endlessly trying to understand my situation. If one of you with some history can reiterate or maybe outline my situations it would be much help. =/

Just purchased yesterday, its a 2004 CLK500, Cabrio. So my trunk space is limited. :/ It has the Bose system with the non-navigation radio. So im trying to Upgrade without having to Rewire and spend $ I dont need to currently. =(

What are my options as far as keeping the Bose Sub and speakers and trying to Upgrade to a Navi+.

Thanks for any feedback.

dariusf

As I explained, there is only one pair running to the trunk from the doors for the front speaker and tweeter. You need separate pairs to go to the crossovers. The other pair that is there is for the rear speaker in the door. One firing at the side of the seat. Thats why you need to tap in at the door seal and run extra new pair for the front door speaker. I used the existing pair for the tweeter to save on work.

While I am in to high end audio, you do not need to be an audiophile to hear the deference. But you do have to compare as until you hear a much better setup you will think the existing is fine.

dariusf

You would have to buy a 2ohm 4 channel (5 if you want a sub) amp and deal with wiring. Again, read my posts from today on why you may would want to replace the speakers while you are at it. The speakers I got sound great while costing only about $200 (excluding a sub which you do not need for most music with these speakers). Hack I listen to varies flavors of techno and was just fine with no sub for a while with these new speakers. Only reason I got a sub was due to the fact it was only $60 and I had 5yth channel there in the amp so might as well use it.

NOTE: the speakers I used were 4ohm like most available and I used 4ohm amp.

dariusf

Also I remember something about the Bose sub in that car not working at all with other amps. Again you will be fine with out using a dedicated subwoofer unless you are a bass head

megacrazy

I guess I would have to take a look at the wires that go into the doors. I didn't replace the speakers but I did replace the head unit and added 2 amps. There was no need to tap into any speaker wires. Simply tap at the harness in the trunk and you're good to go.

If you were replacing the speakers as well what's to stop you to simply use the existing wiring?

Also as far as the Bose sub not working...it's been working fine with Kenwood amps for about a year now

pskdude

What Navi do you have installed mega? Even replacing with a factory Navi deck I would have to do all of the above or with an aftermaket solution only >?

and yes im a bass head so im trying to keep the Bose sub. =P I wish this Dynavin was plug and play, jesus how complex... lol...

dariusf

because the speaker and tweeter were using the same one pair of cables joined together at the door seal and then single pair going to the trunk. You need two separate pairs to go to the crossover which is in the trunk by the amp. There is no place to add crossover in the door seal. Perhaps in your setup it was using two separate pairs, one for speaker and one for tweeter all the way to the trunk. My car is 2003 CLK320 with Bose setup.

dariusf

Quote:

Originally Posted by pskdude

What Navi do you have installed mega? Even with this factory one I would have to do all of the above or with an aftermaket solution >?

and yes im a bass head so im trying to keep it. =P

It all depends on your what is in your car and what you are replacing it with.

Pre face-lift 2003-2004, uses D2B fiber optic network, in US it uses Audio-10 or Audio-30 head unit with Bose amp in the trunk connected with fiber. This is a head unit with no navigation. There is also COMMAND 2.0 head unit option in some versions.

Post face-lift 2005-07 is using MOST fiber optic network and Audio-20 or Audio-50 or COMMAND APS with navigation head units.

There are two types of audio 10 units, CD in dash, and tape in dash (the display flips down) with disk changer in the glove box (I have audio 10 with tape and changer with Bose amp in the trunk in my 2003 CLK).

dariusf

I just made it 'easier' with the in car networks details Dynavin is plug and play IF you do not have bose.

And going with factory Navi deck is going to be very expansive and it would have to be a unit compatible with the network you have in your car. Looks like your car has the D2B fiber optic network so factory option is the Audio-10 or Audio-30 or COMMAND 2.0 (*assuming I got my details right ))))

dariusf

Lowest cost option for people with Bose setup is to get Dynavin unit + 2ohm amp + some wiring. For extra $200 + some extra wiring I got 4ohm amp + nice speakers

* I figured do it once do it right. I already had the car apart anyway and it was only $200 more.... well $260 with a new subwoofer