Hey guys, I am thinking about getting a 2004 CLK320. Are there any reasons I should/shouldn't?? I have heard that they have some issues, but I am very mechanically inclined, so that doesn't pose a problem. Well, unless the issue is that it likes to toast tranny's. That is something that I would not want to have. Hmm, well, thanks for any input, thanks!!

Well, either this, or I am also highly considering a 2001 CL500. I know insurance is gonna be spendy because of my age, but I love the design of the car. I am hoping to get one of these next summer, not this upcoming one but the summer of 2013. I will be selling my P.O.S. pickup and will have saved money for this. Any input??

 

The 3.2l V6 M112 engine is practically bulletproof, and the 722.6 transmission is decent. Other than typical MBZ maintenance stuff, there's not any chronic issues to worry about. Oh, and ignore the "transmission is sealed for life" thing - the routine now is a fluid and filter change every 39K miles.

 

Thanks! I appreciate any input. Again, thank you very much!!

 

Both nice cars for different reasons. If you aren't looking at buying for another 14 months I would revisit the thought next year - time can change opinions and priorities.

Between the two though, tough choice, I far prefer the CLK over the older CL look but also far prefer the 500 engine over the 320

 

the CL has more moving parts, so be aware that electrical issues may occour. Check the ABC suspension if it exist int the 01 CL. The CLK is smaller in size, so if its a big body coupe that you desire, go for the CL.

 

See, I prefer the looks of the older CL over the CLK. Plus, the CL is an S-class coupe, so it will be pretty luxurious. I do understand how the more electronics, the more will go wrong. Heck, the non-electric seats in my '83 don't go up or down, still working on that.

 

Well, I guess it's a CL for you in 14 some odd months then eh?

 

+1

 

Possibly, who knows, I might be in Germany by then. Then I might buy a German-spec W123. It all depends. Thank you for the input, though. I really appreciate it.

 

I'm with Rodney on this one. M112 & 722.6 combo is bulletproof if maintained correctly. Will do a million Km's. I know of a number that have.

 

Yeah, but the difference is that when your seat adjuster fails, you can usually still drive the car, and it's probably something you could fix with a few hours of labor and a hammer and a wrench. When ABC fails on the CL, you might end up not being able to drive it with the suspension on the ground and the tires jammed into the wheel wells. And then even as a DIY, the valves and pump used in the system can cost thousands per part. Hop over to the R230 SL forum here and on BENZWORLD and see what those guys are dealing with - it's the same system and it seems to be good for about 50K miles.

Another consideration is whether you want luxury or some sportiness. The CL is very luxurious, but not very sporty. It handles well for a car its size, but nothing like a CLK. Of course the CLK is nothing near as sporty as a BMW 6-series, but it's all relative.

 

An old CL is not the car to own on a tight budget.

 

Hmm, well I guess I'll just wait and see what happens with the automotive industry. Heck, I might end up with a new C-class. I don't know. Well, thanks everyone!!

 

Love my '04 clk 320 and have only had a few issues in almost 2 yrs. Got it with 58k and have 74k now. Did have a starter motor go out at 65K but nothing else to speak of. Love the top down driving in NC and. With the weather this year have had lots of open top driving! Good luck with your choice

 

Agreed to both points. CLK (w209), IMO, is a better looking car than the CL (w215). I found the CL too big for a coupe. M112 and 722.6 combination is bullet-prove, I myself have over 150k miles in my 2004 CLK320.

My friend drives a 2005 CL500 with ABC and he has to replace something in the rear suspension (maybe struts?) and he was quoted $8-10k CAN.

 

That's just nasty!

 

Yeah, I dont know. I might get a new, I might get a used. I don't know. All in time though. Thanks everyone!!

 

Hi

My wife has a w209 from 09/2003.

She loves it.

Issues we had:

Radiator leaked Glycol into the transmission, so new radiator and oil flushed and changed in box. But I think we got in time, so converter and gearbox seams ok. Could be very bad, new converter and gearbox $$$$ - issue on early w209s, search forum

Climate compressor changed - sounds like a low flying jet :-)

Read springs broken, changed, front suspension minor things

Keyless Go - small issues, changed handles etc.

Overall - very nice car, drives good and looks good

 

I am aware of the radiator issue, Valeo vs Behr. My build date was Jul-2003. I will check mine in 2-3 weeks when my car is on a hoist (ATF pan flush).

When did you replace your radiator? What mileage?

 

one month ago - 120.000 km

the jury is still out on concerning the converter and transmission

 

My car has 240K km, I hope if I have a bad Valeo, the issues would have surfaced already.

How did you tell that you had the coolant contamination? Any symptoms?

 

at low speed 40-50 km/h it would feel like a slight "rumble" from the front - like you were driving over worn down rumble strips

you could also feel that the shift between 1st and 2nd was harder than usual and at 40-50 km/h it felt like the converter had trouble engaging

 

I was anxious so I went to the indie today and checked the radiator. I could not find any label but I did see the wavy strip instead of the straight toothed crimping. I printed the DIY thread from here and we concluded that it was a Behr. I saw a stamp in the radiator that said 61515, not sure what this is.

Unfortunately we saw some oil on the panel. I thought it was ATF but the indie said it was probably engine oil. We saw grease on the transmission pan as well as the engine part in front of the pan. The drain plug of the engine oil was dry. We looked around and we could not find the origin of the "oil". Definitely there was no dripping anywhere. He said this was not bad considering the age of my car. The oil change was 2 months ago and I did not notice any loss of oil. I also did not notice any engine oil in my parking space.

He cleaned it up and we will checked again in 2-3 weeks when I do my 2nd ATF pan flush.

 

Check the pilot bushing on the transmission electrical connector - the o-rings on it fail, especially in cold weather and leak. Luckily, it's an inexpensive and easy repair.

 

This is the 13-pin connector, right?
Isn't this connector located inside the pan? Also, I read that of this leaks, it would leak inside the car, below the carpet of the passenger seat.

The color of the "grease" was black or dark brown. The indie said the color of the new ATF was red. He probbaly did not rememeber that most of my ATF is still 236.10.