722.9 7GTRONIC Fluid Change
05-02-2012, 10:46 PM
#26
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
My wife was watching me crawl under the car, cursing and grimacing each time, and she commented that I needed I proper life. I told her that would be a great Christmas present. Not that she'd go out and buy it for me (I always have to pick out my own mechanical or electronic gifts), but I do already have one picked out, so maybe I just need to leave some strategically placed ads around the house this fall... 
Seriously, if I had a lift, I could do this easily and would not mind helping friends. There is absolutely no reason why this should be a $400+ job when you have an experienced mechanic with the proper tools and parts at hand.
As for cleanliness, is it just me, or does MBZ do an excellent job of putting things together just right, with the right covers and such to keep them clean? I am always surprised at how clean even a poorly maintained MBZ looks. I was equally surprised at how clean my transmission pan, bell housing and other undercarriage parts were given than my car is nearly 6 years old.
Seriously, if I had a lift, I could do this easily and would not mind helping friends. There is absolutely no reason why this should be a $400+ job when you have an experienced mechanic with the proper tools and parts at hand.
As for cleanliness, is it just me, or does MBZ do an excellent job of putting things together just right, with the right covers and such to keep them clean? I am always surprised at how clean even a poorly maintained MBZ looks. I was equally surprised at how clean my transmission pan, bell housing and other undercarriage parts were given than my car is nearly 6 years old.
The following users liked this post:
Justontime (08-19-2024)
05-03-2012, 09:15 AM
#27
Super Moderator
Not just you. MB does a really good job of encapsulating things. A by-product of their endurance testing in Namibia, SA & Finland. Dust & dirt is as well controlled as snow slush.
My C240 was close to spotless under the covers at 8 years.
My C240 was close to spotless under the covers at 8 years.
05-03-2012, 10:46 PM
#28
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
OK, I have some fluid leaking. It's not much, and I'm not sure from where (I assume the pan) but I saw a puddle under the car this morning. At first I had a big "oh crap" moment, but then I checked and it was just water from the A?C condensate drain. However, I noticed this evening when I came home, the water puddle was mostly dry except for a big spot, so I checked and it was oily, but not very much. I reached under the car and can feel some oil on the transmission pan. Again, not much, not enough to drip, but it is damp. I guess I'll have to check it the weekend! (and I thought I did such a good job cleaning the seal surfaces 
)
)
05-04-2012, 06:50 AM
#29
Super Moderator
Don't feel bad - even John had a slight leak at first attempt. I just got lucky. I admit to being tempted to apply Yamabond to that seal.
05-04-2012, 07:45 PM
#30
Super Moderator
This is why DIY is preferable!
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-done-but.html
Rodney - A friend in Dallas want's to know where you got your pump & the MB 722.9 adaptor?
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-done-but.html
Rodney - A friend in Dallas want's to know where you got your pump & the MB 722.9 adaptor?
05-04-2012, 09:17 PM
#31
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
Assenmacher 722.9 Driveline Filler on eBay
The seller had a few minor "dings", but I contacted him in advance last Monday to make sure he had it in stock and would ship fast. He was very responsive to my email and It was delivered that Thursday.
05-05-2012, 10:03 PM
#32
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
I checked the leak this afternoon. It was coming from the rear of the transmission pan. It was not much more than a drip, but jacking up the front end of the car caused it to drip more.
I drained and removed the pan and I found two problems. First, in checking the gasket seating surface, I found a scratch on the transmission housing. I don't know where it came from because I had no metal tools anywhere near there. The only thing I used to clean the surfaces was a microfiber cloth. I also found that the pan sits very close to the exhaust hanger bracket and I was having a hard time cleaning around it so I removed it. I think this was the other problem - the bracket interfered with the lip of the pan and the gasket. Part of the hanger bracket actually sits against the lip of the pan. I'd say that removing it is a must-do for the job in the future.
I cleaned the seating surfaces carefully, again. I used 400, then 600 then 800 grit sandpaper to gently dress the scratch. I put everything back in place and refilled and all seems fine. Time will tell, though!
I drained and removed the pan and I found two problems. First, in checking the gasket seating surface, I found a scratch on the transmission housing. I don't know where it came from because I had no metal tools anywhere near there. The only thing I used to clean the surfaces was a microfiber cloth. I also found that the pan sits very close to the exhaust hanger bracket and I was having a hard time cleaning around it so I removed it. I think this was the other problem - the bracket interfered with the lip of the pan and the gasket. Part of the hanger bracket actually sits against the lip of the pan. I'd say that removing it is a must-do for the job in the future.
I cleaned the seating surfaces carefully, again. I used 400, then 600 then 800 grit sandpaper to gently dress the scratch. I put everything back in place and refilled and all seems fine. Time will tell, though!
05-08-2012, 09:50 PM
#33
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
So far so good - everything is dry. After looking at everything closely with the exhaust bracket removed, I am relatively certain that was the issue - I must have dislodged the gasket slightly when sliding the pan over the bracket. I doubt the little scratch would had leaked that much.
07-11-2012, 05:04 PM
#35
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Camas, WA
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 0
Received 58 Likes
on
24 Posts
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Benz redesigned the pan & spill tube. This is one off. New sump volume & level - old pan also inclined to distort.
Rodney - The pan & gasket mating surfaces require to be super clean or you will have a leak. Far more so than the 722.6. Benz recommends cleaning with a chamois. Even the meticulous Johnand suffered a leak at first attempt.
Rodney - The pan & gasket mating surfaces require to be super clean or you will have a leak. Far more so than the 722.6. Benz recommends cleaning with a chamois. Even the meticulous Johnand suffered a leak at first attempt.
Just to clarify, I never actually had a leak. What I thought was a leak, turned out to be splash from draining the torque converter, leaking at the bell housing to transmission assembly. I have since fashioned a splash shield, that I use to keep the fluid from running down the bell housing.
I have done the 7G service on many W203's, some ML's, and many E-classes as well. The torque converter shape is different between most models. The W203 with the e25 M272 (like my personal car), have a very steep angle where the converter drain is positioned, so the fluid tends to go down the bell housing, and not out the access hole. All other models that I have done so far, don't have this issue.
I used a very large pan to catch the oil. It's actually a water pan from an old tile wet saw I used to have (long story, it got stolen but the thieves left the pan...dumbasses). It's very sturdy and shallow, but about a foot longer and wider than the transmission pan. The first step was to remove the underbody shrouds. I removed both the engine and transmission shrouds to make it easier to get to the bolt on the harmonic balancer to rotate the engine to get to the torque converter drain.
I then removed the pan drain bolt and got less than a quart of fluid out. I used a large flat head screwdriver in place of the official MBZ drift tool to pop the fill tube off of the drain hole. Another quart or so of oil came out. After that, I replaced the drain plug (loosely) and went to work on the torque converter. The dust cap on the access port for the torque converter drain was missing (note to self - get a new one!).
The engine must be rotated until the drain bolt in the torque converter is accessible. I was able to lie on my back from the front of the car so my head was at the TQ drain and the I could use my hands to manipulate a ratchet wrench on the balancer bolt to rotate the engine. With the V8, there is very little room between the balancer and the cooling fan, but I was able to get a socket and wrench in there. The drain bolt is very tiny. It's recessed and only about 10mm round, so I had to watch carefully. Also, there is a cable hold down bracket right in the way and it really isn't possibly to remove it since it's behind a couple of bell housing bolts. I found I could stop it just to the right of the bracket and then barely get a TORX screwdriver on it. I then used a socket on the end of the screwdriver handle and a ratchet wrench to loosen it. I also used this setup to tighten it and check the torque.
The fluid drained out of the TQ very smoothly and with very little mess. The last drops did splash against the housing and that bracket, but otherwise it was an easy operation. I replaced the drain bolt with a new one (with a new washer). That darned bracket is in the way and I had a really hard time getting it to torque. It actually stripped out the TORX head in the bolt, but it did finally "click" so it's good. It may just be a PITA to get out next time. I probably got four quarts of fluid out of the torque converter - much more than drained from the pan so far.
I then removed the pan drain bolt and got less than a quart of fluid out. I used a large flat head screwdriver in place of the official MBZ drift tool to pop the fill tube off of the drain hole. Another quart or so of oil came out. After that, I replaced the drain plug (loosely) and went to work on the torque converter. The dust cap on the access port for the torque converter drain was missing (note to self - get a new one!).
The engine must be rotated until the drain bolt in the torque converter is accessible. I was able to lie on my back from the front of the car so my head was at the TQ drain and the I could use my hands to manipulate a ratchet wrench on the balancer bolt to rotate the engine. With the V8, there is very little room between the balancer and the cooling fan, but I was able to get a socket and wrench in there. The drain bolt is very tiny. It's recessed and only about 10mm round, so I had to watch carefully. Also, there is a cable hold down bracket right in the way and it really isn't possibly to remove it since it's behind a couple of bell housing bolts. I found I could stop it just to the right of the bracket and then barely get a TORX screwdriver on it. I then used a socket on the end of the screwdriver handle and a ratchet wrench to loosen it. I also used this setup to tighten it and check the torque.
The fluid drained out of the TQ very smoothly and with very little mess. The last drops did splash against the housing and that bracket, but otherwise it was an easy operation. I replaced the drain bolt with a new one (with a new washer). That darned bracket is in the way and I had a really hard time getting it to torque. It actually stripped out the TORX head in the bolt, but it did finally "click" so it's good. It may just be a PITA to get out next time. I probably got four quarts of fluid out of the torque converter - much more than drained from the pan so far.
While I was waiting for things to cool down, I changed the oil, replaced my brake wear sensors, and re-bled the brake lines (more on the brake stuff later). I also had on the list to replace the sway bar busings, but I figured I'd have something to eat first and let the transmission cool more. My wife went down to the local sports bar/pub and got me 20 dry-rub Cajun spiced wings. Tasty!
So, after being properly nourished, I checked the temp and it was down to 110F. So I started the engine, range the gears, and go it to the prescribed 113F. I removed the fill adapter from he drain and got -zero- fluid. I should have gotten at least a slow drip. The design of the fill tube is that it snaps onto the top of the drain port, but it fits somewhat loosely, allowing some fluid to seep past. Without a full fill, but some fluid int he pan, you should get an intermittent drip. I was getting nothing. I pumped another liter of fluid and and checked again, and now I had a drip. Another liter pumped in, and then I was getting a full steady stream. Once it slowed to a drip, I replaced the drain plug, torqued it, and shut down the engine.
At this pint, the temp was at 117F, 4 degrees above the proper fill temp. Honestly, I think this is as good as it gets. There is just no way to keep it at a steady 115F in the time it takes to remove the filler pump adapter, check the level, and then replace the drain plug. I figure at most, I'm a few ounces over or under, which is going to have to be good.
So, after being properly nourished, I checked the temp and it was down to 110F. So I started the engine, range the gears, and go it to the prescribed 113F. I removed the fill adapter from he drain and got -zero- fluid. I should have gotten at least a slow drip. The design of the fill tube is that it snaps onto the top of the drain port, but it fits somewhat loosely, allowing some fluid to seep past. Without a full fill, but some fluid int he pan, you should get an intermittent drip. I was getting nothing. I pumped another liter of fluid and and checked again, and now I had a drip. Another liter pumped in, and then I was getting a full steady stream. Once it slowed to a drip, I replaced the drain plug, torqued it, and shut down the engine.
At this pint, the temp was at 117F, 4 degrees above the proper fill temp. Honestly, I think this is as good as it gets. There is just no way to keep it at a steady 115F in the time it takes to remove the filler pump adapter, check the level, and then replace the drain plug. I figure at most, I'm a few ounces over or under, which is going to have to be good.
You are fine at 117F. I have, for fun watched how much fluid you lose over 115, and from 115-125, it is a few ounces, but shoots up fairly sharply over 125.
Oh, and a few more things...final fluid fill was exactly 9 quarts (not liters). The Assenmacher tool is VERY well made and easy to use. I also noticed it was made in USA. They sell adapters for other makes of transmissions, too. It's a good investment if you plan to do this more than once. I just bought the 5 quart model and refilled it. They also sell 3 and 10 quart models, but I think the 5 is just fine. It was no problem to stop and add fluid to its tank.
Honestly, it's not that hard. I think there are two big mental challenges: having to lift all four wheels of the car to a level position with enough room to work underneath, and having to use a pump to refill the transmission. If it weren't for these two things, it wouldn't be much more difficult than an oil change on some cars. The fact that MBZ's have center jack points does make it easier, only having to jack twice to get all four wheels off the ground. And the Assenmacher pump is great. It's well made (and made in USA, go figure!).
Other than that, it's just the "grunt work" of crawling around under the car and draining fluids. I guess some might be scared of dealing with the temperature sensitivity of the oil, but it's just a scale on a gauge, like a dipstick. I used SDS, but an infrared thermometer would work just as well.
I also have to give kudos to Johnand as he was the pioneer of this as a DIY. I used his suggestions and documentation. In fact, had I used his instructions instead of WIS, I would have save a lot of time. WIS wanted me to fill 75%, then shut down the engine and add the remainder of the fluid, which caused the temperature to go high and required a three hour wait for a cool down. Johnand's method is to go ahead and fill 100% and then check the level at the magic 113F temp without a shutdown. I see no difference and will do it that way next time.
Other than that, it's just the "grunt work" of crawling around under the car and draining fluids. I guess some might be scared of dealing with the temperature sensitivity of the oil, but it's just a scale on a gauge, like a dipstick. I used SDS, but an infrared thermometer would work just as well.
I also have to give kudos to Johnand as he was the pioneer of this as a DIY. I used his suggestions and documentation. In fact, had I used his instructions instead of WIS, I would have save a lot of time. WIS wanted me to fill 75%, then shut down the engine and add the remainder of the fluid, which caused the temperature to go high and required a three hour wait for a cool down. Johnand's method is to go ahead and fill 100% and then check the level at the magic 113F temp without a shutdown. I see no difference and will do it that way next time.
Thanks for the kudos 
I continue to fill up all of them with the 2.5 Gallon Power Fill after a change, and have never had an issue. I have heard of some overfilling and having it come out the vent tube, but in the dozens of 7G's I have done, I have yet to have that happen.
The only time I have had an issue with them heating up too fast, and blowing past 115, is when I was in a rush on a very hot day. Which here in the NW is few and far between
Most of the time, I get impatient waiting for them to heat to temp in the winter.My wife was watching me crawl under the car, cursing and grimacing each time, and she commented that I needed I proper life. I told her that would be a great Christmas present. Not that she'd go out and buy it for me (I always have to pick out my own mechanical or electronic gifts), but I do already have one picked out, so maybe I just need to leave some strategically placed ads around the house this fall...
Seriously, if I had a lift, I could do this easily and would not mind helping friends. There is absolutely no reason why this should be a $400+ job when you have an experienced mechanic with the proper tools and parts at hand.
As for cleanliness, is it just me, or does MBZ do an excellent job of putting things together just right, with the right covers and such to keep them clean? I am always surprised at how clean even a poorly maintained MBZ looks. I was equally surprised at how clean my transmission pan, bell housing and other undercarriage parts were given than my car is nearly 6 years old.
Seriously, if I had a lift, I could do this easily and would not mind helping friends. There is absolutely no reason why this should be a $400+ job when you have an experienced mechanic with the proper tools and parts at hand.
As for cleanliness, is it just me, or does MBZ do an excellent job of putting things together just right, with the right covers and such to keep them clean? I am always surprised at how clean even a poorly maintained MBZ looks. I was equally surprised at how clean my transmission pan, bell housing and other undercarriage parts were given than my car is nearly 6 years old.
I LOVE Yamabond, after picking some up on your recommendation a long time ago. Great stuff. See my last comment below. If that didn't work so well, I would probably use Yamabond.
I checked the leak this afternoon. It was coming from the rear of the transmission pan. It was not much more than a drip, but jacking up the front end of the car caused it to drip more.
I drained and removed the pan and I found two problems. First, in checking the gasket seating surface, I found a scratch on the transmission housing. I don't know where it came from because I had no metal tools anywhere near there. The only thing I used to clean the surfaces was a microfiber cloth. I also found that the pan sits very close to the exhaust hanger bracket and I was having a hard time cleaning around it so I removed it. I think this was the other problem - the bracket interfered with the lip of the pan and the gasket. Part of the hanger bracket actually sits against the lip of the pan. I'd say that removing it is a must-do for the job in the future.
I cleaned the seating surfaces carefully, again. I used 400, then 600 then 800 grit sandpaper to gently dress the scratch. I put everything back in place and refilled and all seems fine. Time will tell, though!
I drained and removed the pan and I found two problems. First, in checking the gasket seating surface, I found a scratch on the transmission housing. I don't know where it came from because I had no metal tools anywhere near there. The only thing I used to clean the surfaces was a microfiber cloth. I also found that the pan sits very close to the exhaust hanger bracket and I was having a hard time cleaning around it so I removed it. I think this was the other problem - the bracket interfered with the lip of the pan and the gasket. Part of the hanger bracket actually sits against the lip of the pan. I'd say that removing it is a must-do for the job in the future.
I cleaned the seating surfaces carefully, again. I used 400, then 600 then 800 grit sandpaper to gently dress the scratch. I put everything back in place and refilled and all seems fine. Time will tell, though!
So far so good - everything is dry. After looking at everything closely with the exhaust bracket removed, I am relatively certain that was the issue - I must have dislodged the gasket slightly when sliding the pan over the bracket. I doubt the little scratch would had leaked that much.
Last edited by johnand; 07-11-2012 at 05:06 PM.
07-11-2012, 08:41 PM
#36
Super Moderator
Sorry about reporting a leak. I should also read a little more. Did not realise it was a splash. Remember you reporting some wetness!
Note ~ I stickied your excellent transmission service thread at the top of the W209 forum a long while back!
Note ~ I stickied your excellent transmission service thread at the top of the W209 forum a long while back!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 07-11-2012 at 08:44 PM.
07-11-2012, 09:50 PM
#37
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
03-21-2013, 09:15 PM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
C63AMG, NIssan NX2000, Pontiac Fiero GT
Another thank you to all who pioneered this diy. I never back off of diy, but I must say the overflow tube / fluid heat got to me the first 5 times I read. I did run accross something I hope someone can clarify.
I do not know my trans PN (I have a VIN request in work). My car is 09-C63 so I wondered about step 11.1 of AR27.00-P-0270SYZ, which talks about additional oil cooler and 194C. It looks like a step after removing and reinsatlling a cooler only, so I will disregard, right?
Also I guess I will have to check physically to be sure what pan I have before finalising parts cache prior to drain since there is some uncertainty when that sloped pan was cut in. thanks
I do not know my trans PN (I have a VIN request in work). My car is 09-C63 so I wondered about step 11.1 of AR27.00-P-0270SYZ, which talks about additional oil cooler and 194C. It looks like a step after removing and reinsatlling a cooler only, so I will disregard, right?
Also I guess I will have to check physically to be sure what pan I have before finalising parts cache prior to drain since there is some uncertainty when that sloped pan was cut in. thanks
03-21-2013, 11:19 PM
#39
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
With a MY2009, I am certain you have the revised pan. If your car was built June 2009 or later (and I doubt that as it would then be a "MY2010") you have a different fill procedure.
03-22-2013, 02:43 PM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
C63AMG, NIssan NX2000, Pontiac Fiero GT
Another thank you to all who pioneered this diy. I never back off of diy, but I must say the overflow tube / fluid heat got to me the first 5 times I read. I did run accross something I hope someone can clarify.
I do not know my trans PN (I have a VIN request in work). My car is 09-C63 so I wondered about step 11.1 of AR27.00-P-0270SYZ, which talks about additional oil cooler and 194C. It looks like a step after removing and reinsatlling a cooler only, so I will disregard, right?
Also I guess I will have to check physically to be sure what pan I have before finalising parts cache prior to drain since there is some uncertainty when that sloped pan was cut in. thanks
I do not know my trans PN (I have a VIN request in work). My car is 09-C63 so I wondered about step 11.1 of AR27.00-P-0270SYZ, which talks about additional oil cooler and 194C. It looks like a step after removing and reinsatlling a cooler only, so I will disregard, right?
Also I guess I will have to check physically to be sure what pan I have before finalising parts cache prior to drain since there is some uncertainty when that sloped pan was cut in. thanks
03-22-2013, 11:37 PM
#41
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
Like I said, I am certain you have the revised sloped pan, but why not go ahead and look at it to double-check? It's very easy to visually identify it (unless you are like me and look at the rear of the pan instead of the front!)
03-23-2013, 12:01 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
C63AMG, NIssan NX2000, Pontiac Fiero GT
Rodney, I will look. You say you believe a newer fill procedure applies to later C 63's. If I read you correctly. By the way I will post in the C 63 forum once I have anything worth saying. Meanwhile thanks.
03-23-2013, 04:27 PM
#43
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
Beginning in June 2010, the 722.9 transmission was revised, and there is a new oil and procedure for filling. Here's a video that explains the differences in filling. The voice-over is in German, but you'll understand the procedure well enough. At about 1:10 in the video, you'll see how to identify the new 2010 version - it's the pan on the right with the much deeper dimples. Also, a new oil is required, and supposedly, it is not compatible with the old transmissions. I believe only MY2011 cars will have this new version of the 722.9, so yours should be identical to mine.
http://benzbits.com/722_9/NewVersionService.wmv
http://benzbits.com/722_9/NewVersionService.wmv
03-23-2013, 07:15 PM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
C63AMG, NIssan NX2000, Pontiac Fiero GT
Beginning in June 2010, the 722.9 transmission was revised, and there is a new oil and procedure for filling. Here's a video that explains the differences in filling. The voice-over is in German, but you'll understand the procedure well enough. At about 1:10 in the video, you'll see how to identify the new 2010 version - it's the pan on the right with the much deeper dimples. Also, a new oil is required, and supposedly, it is not compatible with the old transmissions. I believe only MY2011 cars will have this new version of the 722.9, so yours should be identical to mine.
http://benzbits.com/722_9/NewVersionService.wmv
http://benzbits.com/722_9/NewVersionService.wmv
06-24-2013, 09:02 AM
#45
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2006 C230
Can someone tell me the part # of the old pan please as I have a pan with MB part # A 221 270 09 12 but mine has the sloped edge and it seems the original part with an issue from the images and video show a complete squared off one. I see that part # A 221 270 12 12 is the latest listed in EPC but I'm wonder if the 09 12 is the same and there is an earlier part # that was the issue or indeed I have a pan that needs to be replaced during service. Thank you.
06-24-2013, 09:20 AM
#46
MBworld Guru
Thread Starter
# A 221 270 09 12 is a good part. I am not sure what the newer revision is for, but your existing pan is valid. The old style pan would not accommodate the new filter, plus I believe the slope is designed for better oil flow. This may help:
http://benzbits.com/722_9/RedesignedPanParts.pdf
http://benzbits.com/722_9/RedesignedPanParts.pdf
06-24-2013, 09:21 AM
#47
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2006 C230
One other question please and thank you: There is a note for the filter on EPC Online and makes note of the transmission code of A89 using a different filter part #. Can anyone provide information as to how to obtain the "Code" as to compare? Thanks in advance.
06-24-2013, 09:25 AM
#48
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2006 C230
# A 221 270 09 12 is a good part. I am not sure what the newer revision is for, but your existing pan is valid. The old style pan would not accommodate the new filter, plus I believe the slope is designed for better oil flow. This may help:
http://benzbits.com/722_9/RedesignedPanParts.pdf
http://benzbits.com/722_9/RedesignedPanParts.pdf
06-24-2013, 09:45 AM
#49
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2006 C230
I did a bit more research on this and what is interesting is that the document provided seems to make reference of a magnet change. I wonder if there was a further revision to this pan as EPC tells me that the the parts have been replaced again along with new part # for the filter as well the part # for the pan gasket but the bolts and overflow pipe are the same. Below is a copy/paste from the shopping list from EPC Online minus the torque converter plug and sealing ring:
Mode MD mode Mod. des. overview C SEDAN
FIN/MD WDB 2030521A912797 Catalog 63K -PASSENGER CAR ONLY / NUR PKW
VIN WDBRF52H46A912797 Major assembly GA - Automatic transmission
Sales designation C 230 Major assembly MD 722998 00 702999
Assortment class Car Group 27 - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Market North America Subgroup 115 - OIL PAN,OIL FILTER
Item no. Part number Designation/description Quantity Version
10 A 221 270 09 12 . OIL PAN
. Replaced by: A 221 270 12 12
. +001 A 220 271 03 80
. [098, 099] From Transmission: 0024198 From Date: 11/12/2003
001
12 N 000908 012009 . . SCREW PLUG, FILLING 001
14 N 007603 012102 . . SEALING RING 001
30 A 221 277 01 95 . OIL FILTER
. Note: 011813.1
001
60 A 004 990 35 12 . BOLT
. OIL PAN TO TRANSMISSION HOUSING
. M6X40
006
100 A 251 271 00 97 . OVERFLOW PIPE 001
Mode MD mode Mod. des. overview C SEDAN
FIN/MD WDB 2030521A912797 Catalog 63K -PASSENGER CAR ONLY / NUR PKW
VIN WDBRF52H46A912797 Major assembly GA - Automatic transmission
Sales designation C 230 Major assembly MD 722998 00 702999
Assortment class Car Group 27 - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Market North America Subgroup 115 - OIL PAN,OIL FILTER
Item no. Part number Designation/description Quantity Version
10 A 221 270 09 12 . OIL PAN
. Replaced by: A 221 270 12 12
. +001 A 220 271 03 80
. [098, 099] From Transmission: 0024198 From Date: 11/12/2003
001
12 N 000908 012009 . . SCREW PLUG, FILLING 001
14 N 007603 012102 . . SEALING RING 001
30 A 221 277 01 95 . OIL FILTER
. Note: 011813.1
001
60 A 004 990 35 12 . BOLT
. OIL PAN TO TRANSMISSION HOUSING
. M6X40
006
100 A 251 271 00 97 . OVERFLOW PIPE 001
