Guys where is the WIS document saying that the torque converter on the 722.9 transmission must be drained?

 

Hang ten ~ I'll find it for you.

 

Here: It's in the stickies & the Wiki.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-converter.pdf

 

Read Johnand's excellent thread!

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...+722.9+service

 

Thanks, after a partial drain of six units of fluid on the transmission, my SA just assured me "that it would cost 1400 USD to drain the torque converter because they would have to take apart the entire transmission" and "MBUSA told them not to do this, ever."

The car jerked in gear a little today, too.

 

Time to find a new SA. All they have to do is pull a rubber plug out of the bell housing. Rotate the engine until the TC drain plug lines up. Remove the drain plug. Now they have contaminated the fluid. Half old, half new.

I get mad when these clueless SA's BS their customers.

 

Read this thread.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-done-but.html

Good dealers & MBUSA roll over when confronted with the WIS evidence.

Others have tried this "we will have to remove the transmission nonsense." Some dealers are really bad.

 

What aggravates me is how these bad dealer service centers pick and choose what parts of MBZ's guidelines they want to follow. For example, take your car in with retrofitted HID headlights and ask to have the "XENON=PRESENT" option set and they will refuse because it's "against policy", but take your 722.9 in for service, and they ignore WIS and refuse to drain the TQ! Idiots!

 

I had a referral to a different SA from a source outside the dealer and spoke to him this morning, well versed in the drain plug/torque converter drain issue on 203's and 209's.

I have an invitation to take the car back in with original SA/mechanic.

I simply will not allow my car to suffer from mixed old/new fluids and no torque converter drain after I specified such -- whether or not it has a drain plug.

 

i need the WIS document they are trying to get away with this at my dealer can anyone sent this to me ASAP please.

 

http://benzbits.com/722_9/TorqueConverterDrain.pdf

 

Transmission 722.90202, does my Torque Converter have a drain plug/bolt?
I'm nearing 97,000 Kilometer on the Odometer, and MB India has suggested we do a transmission flush, and filter replacement. Does this transmission 722.90202 have a Torque Converter drain? Please advise, our service department here is lacking knowledge.
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I just did a rear Main Seal and, while I was at it, I ended up removing the Valve Body and gave that a full cleaning! As for the TC drain, yes all you have to do is spin the Crank with a rachet from underneath as you look for the TC Drain screw. It's a small hex head and on my 2007 AMG E63 when I inserted the hex bit, it was obstructed by the Tranny Oil Hoses that go to and from the Tranny, so it required a basic removal of both hoses. Since I was doing the Rear Main which requires removing the Tanny anyway, those hoses were removed in order to drop the Tranny! Once removed, the drain plug for the Tranny was easily removed with the hex bit. Just be sure to pull down so as not to cause the flywheel to spin while you do it otherwise you'll have to reposition it with the Crank Rachet. Since I had the tranny fully removed, I opted to fill up the Torque Converter manually by using a very small funnel to fill the TC up with new, in my case LiquiMoly RED ATF Tranny Fluid. Note that when doing so, assuming the drain hole is aimed upwards in order to fill it, once it reached halfway full any fluid poured in will come out via the Center of the TC!! I had wondered how the TC is cycled with fluid and doing this process answered my question!! As for a weep hole on the inner side of the TC or a similar one on the Transmission Drive Shaft, I did not see that. But I found that the TC had to be installed/Seated in an exact position clockwise in order to fully retract towards the interior body of the Tranny, otherwise it would have remained too far out on the shaft and would not have been able to be installed! Obviously since it has to be installed a specific way, I can only deduct that there is some built-in weephole that is matched somewhere on the shaft!! I took a little fiddling with but I finally got it there!

I still haven't driven her yet however due to my having replaced every bushing in the rear Subframe, new shocks and RMT Air Springs, Rotors, Pads, Dive Shaft Disc's, Mid~Drive Shaft Bearing, as well as having installed a transplanted 3.06 Ring and Pinion from a Charger SRT8 with a MFactory LSD!!! WIll be installing the whole subframe this coming week (6 bolts total-Fairly Easy once the exhaust is removed as long as you use a suitable Tranny Jack!! I used new Bolts all around since most were torque to yield (ie-one time use!!) With the Tanny Jack supporting the whole subframe, I was able to install the Air Springs with relative ease, tighten the Suspension bolts from overhead instead of on my back, and refill the Diff, install the new Hubs etc all from not being under the car!! As for tightening the bolts to the control arms, since all my bushings were from K-mac, they were not rubber which bind when being torqued down. As such, I still made sure that the outer Carrier was level and even before removing any arms, I marked a horizontal line across each since that was where the arms naturally returned to once the carriers were off. The only Arm that I replaced were both Torque Arms, but had I decided to go with K-Mac before ordering them, I would have chosen the K-mac. But instead I replaced the Carrier bushing with the rubber OEM to pair with the New Torque Arm on each side. When I torque those down, I'll be sure to put a magnetic level across the Axles to ensure they are both level and use the iPhone Inclinometer App to dial in the -1.2 degree the Arms are supposed to be at in the rear at their Tallest setting by using various jacks/2x4's on each side to stabilize the Subframe while I'm torquing down in it. No road hugging Comfort robbing lowriding for this ride!!

After getting that all installed, in retrospect, I made a mistake mounting and tightening the bolts of all the arms to the Carrier! Why you ask? Well, in order to install the axles, I ended up mounting the subframe with the carriers installed and then mounted the differential. As such, once mounted, I had to disconnect either the upper or lower Arms in order to install the axles. So it would have saved me a couple steps if I had instead just used the bolts for the arms to mock them up loosely to confirm there was no binding, as I did, but then remove the lower bolt from the torque arm and disco the Air Spring Arm bolt connecting to the subframe. Since it required a flat floor, a BFH and a punch to center the bushing of that Arm into the Carrier (don”t even think you can get that done with the Carrier flopping around connected to the other arms!) disconnecting this Arm is the way to go since it’s not supposed to be fully tight until the Axles are level (~1.4*). So after mocking up the Carrier making sure all bushings were in their right place with no binding (with those K~Mac bushings, they”re not rubbery|sticky so you should easily be able to move the carrier once connected vertically. I did have to remove a couple arms in “adjust” the positioning of the bushings, even after measuring with calipers on each bush before and after removal|install, but in the end all seemingly lined up well.) it would have been better that I left the torque arm and Air Spring Arm unbolted before mounting the subframe in order to install the differential. Because then you can get under the car and shove the axle into its place (making sure to align each side accordingly and in reference to the Drive Shaft and the pinion position) while using your feet to push against the inner axle and pull out the carrier in order to get the outer spleened end of the axle shaft into the new hub and newly greased flange which should definitely have been installed already! Why you ask? Because there’s no way to tighten the hub bolts with the axles in the way!!

 

Thank you @E63007