turbocobra10

I'm currently trying to replace my alternator in my 2004 CLK500. I have all connectors and bolts out but I can't find a way to pull it out. I have turned it every angle possible but can't seem to get it out. Does anyone have any ideas?

Klinh

Do a search. There's alot infos of "how to" remove it.

turbocobra10

Klihn,

I have searched but keep coming up with irrelavant info and the two I did find never had a solution posted. I will keep searching.

Klinh

I changed the alternator on Sunday and it took 2 hrs. Originally, i thought it would take only 1 hr, which is the typical time on other cars. But I have to agree that the job is far more difficult than on other cars, such as BMW, Toyota or GMs. I should have posted some tips/tricks soon after I did this job. But there's on oil dipstick in the front of the car I worked on. Next time, it'll take me no more than one hour.
There's very little room in the back of the alternator to work with, i got some cuts on my hands as a result of taking out the alternator.
Here's the procedure I would recommend (I didn't take pictures eithe, but can take some later and post them):
1. Remove battery negative terminals (2 batteries) on the E class or one in the CLK class.
2. Remove engine cover and vent duct on passenger side.
3. Remove drive belt: only one. Nut on tensioner is 17mm. Rotate counter-clockwise & remove belt. Draw a picture of the belt position before removing it; you'll need to refer to it when putting it back.
4.. Remove the two long mounting bolts (12mm I believe) holding the alternator. (There maybe 4 mounting bolts on some models, I don't know). Use a pry bar & pry the alternator loose.
5.. Flip the alternator facing down (pulley facing down). There's a plastic cap covering the 13mm nut. Remove that w/ a flat head screw driver. Remove the large positive wire by removing the 13mm nut. Unplug the wire harness.
6. Take the old alternator out: Some pipes and hoses are on the way, you'll need to remove some plastic clips holding down the hoses, and move (not disconnecting) the hoses out of the way.
7. The hardest part. Drop in the new alternator. Connect the wirehareness. Don't connect the positive wire yet. Now wiggle the top of the alternator onto the fitting slot; need some muscle to wiggle it in; insert the long bolt, it maynot smoothly slide into place -- just wiggle and push at the same time, you maynot be able to align the hole on the alterntor and the hole in the mounting plate, the trick is to wiggle the bolt and slightly wiggle the alternator at the same time and push the bolt in. Tighten the bolt 1/2 way. Now wiggle the bottom of the alternator into the bottom fitting position. Insert the 2nd bolt and wiggle both the bolt & the alternator at the same time until the bolt can slide into position. Now tighten both bolts.
8. Connect the positive wire on alternator & tighten the nut.
9. Put the drive belt back on.
10. Reconnect the battery terminals.
It took me 2 hrs to do the whole job. Next time, it won't take more than an hour.




https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...lternator.html

Rudeney

It comes out from underneath, but it's like working one of those old metal and wood bar room puzzles. I think even if someone posted a video, you'd still have to just figure it out by trial and error.

turbocobra10

Klinh,
Is your CLK a 500? I could not get mine out the same way you did although I wish I could have. I ended up removing the water pump and pulling it out from the front and lifting it out. What a pain in the a**.

waveterrorist

It has been my experience that Mercedes shop time is usually about double what it should take (usual caveats, rust...)

I have been un successful in replacing my m113 alternator and I even jacked the motor up from the sub frame.

I don't see how this unit comes out the bottom but my only remaining idea is to droop the subframe.


It somebody has actually done this I would be interested in how.

Rudeney

According to WIS, you just remove the electric suction fan and it comes out from the top. I have removed the alternator on my C240 and didn't even need to remove the fan.

http://benzbits.com/w209/RemoveAlternator.pdf

waveterrorist

I considered dropping the sway bar but was not sure there was room.
What is a suction fan?

Rudeney

The electric fan behind the radiator.

waveterrorist

Fritz couldn't just call it a radiator fan like the rest of the free world....

According to my material shop time for the V6 is only 1.9 hours so I will report back

waveterrorist

The fan/shroud appear to to be the key. I found this in the C55 forum and it is right on point....https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...lternator.html

DanielFD

try dropping an alternator on a n62tu engine like in my BMW, think around 6 hours! you guys and previously me had it easy! do miss working on my old m112 engine..

waveterrorist

The job is done and for something basically conceptually straight forward it was for me a very unpleasant experience.

I did not touch the sway bar but I suggest releasing the motor mounts from the sub frame and jacking the motor up a couple of inches once you get the fan shroud out.

mbnz230

isn't this posted in 2012?

i guess you guys are doing it wrong, all you need is just replace the voltage regulator, the part is like $40, save $$$. that's what i did. no need to remove the alternator or anything. with some screws driver you can do it under the car, pretty simple. unless you know for sure it's not the voltage regulator, it usually is.

mis3

Not sure if there is a difference between a CLK320 and CLK500.
When my indie changed the alternator of my 2004CLK320, it took less than an hour and everythIng was done on top, not from the bottom.

JimVonBaden

Definitely a difference.

Rudeney

Yep, M113 has much less room to work, but removing the engine suction fan gives you just enough.