Patton001

I am planning on servicing my trans when the time comes. My question is when I drain the TC at service, it seems it takes an extra 3 quarts. Should I just pump the extra 3 back in before I start the car or wait till I have run the car then add more?
Thanks.

Rudeney

I drained the torque converter, and then pumped in 10 quarts. With a fluid pump, you don't need to start the engine - it will flow back into the torque converter. I started the engine, brought it up to the correct temp, and then drained out maybe a quart to get it to the proper level. FYI, there is a very specific way to drain and fill the 722.9 - they all have a torque converter drain, so you always drain it and measure the fluid level via overflow at 113F.

Patton001

Thank you, yes I was aware of the level checking procedure. Where did you get the adaptor to screw into the drain plug?

Yidney

Source is in the sticky post.

Rudeney

Assenmacher makes the adapter for about $40 or so. There are cheaper alternatives like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-722...3c1053&vxp=mtr


Better yet, get the whole pump from Assenmacher:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Assenmacher-...68c109&vxp=mtr

It's well made and makes the job super easy. Even at $180, plus another $100-$150 for parts and fluid, you still come out ahead on the first change compared to dealer prices, and probably about equal for indy shop prices. Since I intend to service mine ever 35K-40K miles, it's worth it.

Patton001

Thanks for that. If I finish filling then run the car while up on jack stands will the fluid reach temp or will I need to drop it and drive then put it back up?

Patton001

One more...any idea how much the updated trans oil pan will run? Thanks.

Rudeney

Patton, there is a challenge with getting the temperature right. It has to be 113F for proper overflow measurement. You can gently rev the engine just a bit, and then (with your foot on the brake to keep the wheels form spinning) shift through the gears a few times. The problem is that the "regular operating" temp is more like 180F, so it's going to seek the reach that. Just idling the engine from cold, it will eventually get there, but you just have to wait until it gets to 113F. If you rev too much and start it warming too quickly, it will pas through 113F and ride before you get a chance to check the level. Then you have to shut down and wait an hour or longer for it to cool down. It took me a 2nd try to figure out just how to finesse it to 113F slowly.

As for the pan, do you have the old style? The new (correct) pan style will slope upward on the rear. The old pan (which should be replaced) will have no slope. Let me know if you need the new style pan - I bought one (and the new overflow pipe for it) because I didn't pay close attention and though I needed it. As it turns out, I had the new style, so I still have a brand new pan, with drain plug and overflow pipe. I can make you a deal on it if needed.

Patton001

I haven't been down under to check but I will evaluate before I do the job, thanks.

Rudeney

You probably have the new pan. My understanding is that it revised in late calendar year 2005, so most MY2006+ vehicles were shipped with the new pan.

Patton001

That would be one small victory. After having bought this car a couple weeks ago I have begun to wonder if it was a wise buy. After researching here and other forums and finding out about the issues with the conductor plate in the trans that seem to be an ongoing problem, then hearing about the balance shaft gear issue I am a little worried. Although this is my first MBZ we have had them in my family for years and thought them to be bullet-proof. Seems I got lucky and bought the worst possible year.

Rudeney

My advice for people considering buying an MBZ is this: There are very sophisticated an complicated machines that come at a cost. If you want one, and are not willing to worry about the costs of the potential "maintenance and adjustments" they might need, then you need to lease a new one, or buy it and trade it before the warranty expires. If you can't afford that, then you can buy a used one, an either be prepared to pay between $1K and $4K per year in maintenance or be s killed DIYer. Otherwise, but a Toyota.

Patton001

Not really worried about maintenance etc. I have been working on cars for 40+ years. Tearing down the engine to do the balance shaft gear may or may not be beyond my skills but the time it takes to accomplish the job is what I really don't have. I have a very well outfitted garage to work in so when I do have time you can usually find me working on the cars. I have only had this car a few weeks. I will have a pretty thorough knowledge of this car once I gather all the manuals and get to spend some time with the car. Just the usual learning curve.

Rudeney

That's good. Other than the occasional frustration with parts that shouldn't break that do, you will likely enjoy working on the car. You will see the excellent engineering used to create it and find that for the most part, it is easy to work on. I would suggest that you at least get a copy of WIS, or better, get SDS. You can find the hacked/cloned versions of these on eBay. SDS "does it all" and can be had for around $500.