ESP inoperative after getting car lowered
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 95
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From: Moore, OK
2007 CLK 550
ESP inoperative after getting car lowered
Hello everyone. Ever since I got my car lowered, I now get a message that states ESP inoperative. The manager at the suspension shop said that he had to remove the brake lines from the brakes because how the front springs were setup. Here's what I've noticed. The passenger front has two wires coming from the fender to the wheel. The drivers front only has one wire going from the fender to the wheel. You can see where there's another plug-in and another set of couplings for the wire to snap into. Service manager said his tech noticed only 1 wire on the driver side. Originally I thought he just forgot to plug up second wire on the driver side. I'm guessing these wires belong to the wheel sensors. Is there supposed be 1 wire on the driver side and 2 on the passenger? I've also tried the lock to lock screen wheel sensor reset. I still get the same message though. Btw, the message appears after the 1st mile of driving. Any suggestions on what to do?
On a side note he said he had to bleed my breaks during this process. Since then my brake pedal goes down a little further than it used to. Is there anyway to fix this.
Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.
Kyle.
2007 CLK550
On a side note he said he had to bleed my breaks during this process. Since then my brake pedal goes down a little further than it used to. Is there anyway to fix this.
Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.
Kyle.
2007 CLK550
Last edited by klonsbury; Mar 22, 2013 at 12:16 PM.
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The two wires are for both the wheel speed sensor and the brake pad wear sensor. Not every wheel has a brake pad wear sensor (only on in front and one in back), but every wheel has the speed sensor. Opening the brake lines and bleeding them should not cause a problem with the wheel speed sensors. But, this should not affect the brake pedal feel unless they didn't do a good job of bleeding the brakes. If you haven't done a brake fluid flush in the last two years, you might want to do that, which will also get any air out of the system the mechanic may have missed.
My guess is that they damaged either the sensor itself or the wiring lead. If you can get someone with SDS to scan the codes, it will tell you the exact problem.
My guess is that they damaged either the sensor itself or the wiring lead. If you can get someone with SDS to scan the codes, it will tell you the exact problem.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Moore, OK
2007 CLK 550
3 times? I thought it was just once. I started the car and turned the wheel all the way right until it stopped and then all the way left until it stopped. So I guess I need to go back and forth 2 more times?
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Two full turns lock-to-lock usually does it, but three won't hurt. Sometimes I've had to remove the fuses to totally "wipe out" the calibration and the do the turns. Also, the car must be in park (i.e. not moving) when doing this.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Moore, OK
2007 CLK 550
Also, I have a P0015 code stored in my car. Is that related to balance shaft issue? Or this resolved by replacing those magnets? Thanks for your responses. You are always so knowledgable and helpful.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Moore, OK
2007 CLK 550
Issue resolved.... So far.
I pulled the fuses like Rodney suggested and then did the steering wheel reset procedure. It's been a week and no message. Where as before, I'd receive the message within a mile of starting the car and driving.
Thanks everyone for your help!
I pulled the fuses like Rodney suggested and then did the steering wheel reset procedure. It's been a week and no message. Where as before, I'd receive the message within a mile of starting the car and driving.
Thanks everyone for your help!
