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How do I replace my serpentine belt?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Moore, OK
2007 CLK 550
How do I replace my serpentine belt?
I've searched and can't find the answer. In another forum, it mentions removing a bolt near the tensioner pulley and then the tension will actually move. Thus allowing the belt to come off. Is this correct?
Thanks!
Kyle.
Thanks!
Kyle.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 355
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From: Brandon, Florida
2012 C63 Coupe P31
On the M113 V8, the tensioner has a 17mm bolt that you use to pivot the tensioner. Put a socket with breaker bar or socket, ratchet, and long pipe on the bolt and rotate the tensioner counter-clockwise and remove the belt. Everything can be done from up top. No need to remove any bolts, at least on the M113.
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I can usually replace it without any tools - just pull on the belt and the tensioner will give enough to slide it off the water pump pulley. Same with putting it back on - route it on everything but the water pump, then pull it onto the water pump.
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I don't know who the OEM is, but the MBZ part number is A0159972592. Honestly I'd probably just buy a good quality aftermarket belt from a retail auto parts store - there's not a lot to belt technology.
Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 216
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2004 CLK 500 with AMG Package, Not Convertible
I don't see any cracks or anything but thinking to replace as a precautionary measure. Is it really that easy without opening that 17mm bolt? Should I also replace the tensioner too or just the belt? No noise or anything so far.
One more thing, is water pump right above crank pulley or?
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 773
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From: Dallas
2013 CLS63, 2001 ML430, 2012 e350 coupe
Sorry for bring this thread back from dead, but I am at ~78k miles and think on the original belt.
I don't see any cracks or anything but thinking to replace as a precautionary measure. Is it really that easy without opening that 17mm bolt? Should I also replace the tensioner too or just the belt? No noise or anything so far.
One more thing, is water pump right above crank pulley or?
I don't see any cracks or anything but thinking to replace as a precautionary measure. Is it really that easy without opening that 17mm bolt? Should I also replace the tensioner too or just the belt? No noise or anything so far.
One more thing, is water pump right above crank pulley or?
no real reason to replace it if there are no cracks but yes its that easy. I wouldn't replace the tensioner just to replace it
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2004 CLK 500 with AMG Package, Not Convertible
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2005 320CLK Cab
Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
2004 CLK 500 with AMG Package, Not Convertible
Makes sense, please do post here if you end up replacing tensioner and which ones would you replace? Just one or any other?
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 773
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From: Dallas
2013 CLS63, 2001 ML430, 2012 e350 coupe
why would you have to replace the tensioner? its hydraulic so unless that part has failed or the bearing in the pulley itself there is no need. Rubber cracks with age, its a part that eventually you have to replace, the tension er may never need to be replaced.
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The tensioner uses a spring - not hydraulics (though 4MATIC models do have an additional hydraulic strut in addition to the tensioner). The spring rarely fails, though I did have one do that on my C240. It's symptom was a "clucking" noise when the power steering pump was stressed by tight turns.
Typical problems of the tensioner and the idler pulleys are bearing failure. This will be a squeaking noise. When this happens, replace the pulley because it will eventually lock-up and destroy the belt. Another failure is if these plastic pulley crack. That can also shred the belt. That also happened on my C240 and the strips of belt got sucked into the alternator. It took me an hour to unwind all the crap.
When you have the belt off, inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys for any cracks. Rotate them to fell for bearing wear.
Typical problems of the tensioner and the idler pulleys are bearing failure. This will be a squeaking noise. When this happens, replace the pulley because it will eventually lock-up and destroy the belt. Another failure is if these plastic pulley crack. That can also shred the belt. That also happened on my C240 and the strips of belt got sucked into the alternator. It took me an hour to unwind all the crap.
When you have the belt off, inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys for any cracks. Rotate them to fell for bearing wear.
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 216
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2004 CLK 500 with AMG Package, Not Convertible
Thanks so much GB and R.
I am going to hold on to this belt for now and will look and keep an eye to see if it's falling apart, then will replace it.
When no belt would be there, will check for any abnormal noises on the tensioners too, as well as plastic pulleys.
Thank you again.
I am going to hold on to this belt for now and will look and keep an eye to see if it's falling apart, then will replace it.
When no belt would be there, will check for any abnormal noises on the tensioners too, as well as plastic pulleys.
Thank you again.
Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
2004 CLK 500 with AMG Package, Not Convertible
The tensioner uses a spring - not hydraulics (though 4MATIC models do have an additional hydraulic strut in addition to the tensioner). The spring rarely fails, though I did have one do that on my C240. It's symptom was a "clucking" noise when the power steering pump was stressed by tight turns.
Typical problems of the tensioner and the idler pulleys are bearing failure. This will be a squeaking noise. When this happens, replace the pulley because it will eventually lock-up and destroy the belt. Another failure is if these plastic pulley crack. That can also shred the belt. That also happened on my C240 and the strips of belt got sucked into the alternator. It took me an hour to unwind all the crap.
When you have the belt off, inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys for any cracks. Rotate them to fell for bearing wear.
Typical problems of the tensioner and the idler pulleys are bearing failure. This will be a squeaking noise. When this happens, replace the pulley because it will eventually lock-up and destroy the belt. Another failure is if these plastic pulley crack. That can also shred the belt. That also happened on my C240 and the strips of belt got sucked into the alternator. It took me an hour to unwind all the crap.
When you have the belt off, inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys for any cracks. Rotate them to fell for bearing wear.
So far there is no squeaking or any other noise, does it mean things are good for now?
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Refer to this:
http://benzbits.com/M112/BeltRouting.pdf
#4 is the idler pulley. When you replace it, you just remove the Torx bolt and swap the pulley with integrated bearing. #7 is the tensioner pulley. It's replaced as an entire assembly.
http://benzbits.com/M112/BeltRouting.pdf
#4 is the idler pulley. When you replace it, you just remove the Torx bolt and swap the pulley with integrated bearing. #7 is the tensioner pulley. It's replaced as an entire assembly.
