Planning to go Quad Exhaust!
09-23-2013, 11:52 AM
#51
MBWorld Fanatic!
That already sounds good.... I think the dual setup with a crossover will give you the growl I think you want to add. As you are now, I think your exhaust is louder than mine. 
An X-pipe will reduce the volume a little and alter the tone, whether it is stand alone or part of the muffler.
BTW I checked with magnaflow and the 11386 internal x-pipe is the same as the 10791 but perforated.
An X-pipe will reduce the volume a little and alter the tone, whether it is stand alone or part of the muffler.
BTW I checked with magnaflow and the 11386 internal x-pipe is the same as the 10791 but perforated.
09-24-2013, 01:28 AM
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
That already sounds good.... I think the dual setup with a crossover will give you the growl I think you want to add. As you are now, I think your exhaust is louder than mine.
An X-pipe will reduce the volume a little and alter the tone, whether it is stand alone or part of the muffler.
BTW I checked with magnaflow and the 11386 internal x-pipe is the same as the 10791 but perforated.
An X-pipe will reduce the volume a little and alter the tone, whether it is stand alone or part of the muffler.
BTW I checked with magnaflow and the 11386 internal x-pipe is the same as the 10791 but perforated.
09-24-2013, 03:58 PM
#53
MBWorld Fanatic!
kb24forlife24, I believe both the dual piping and the x-pipe (internal to the 11386) will clean the tone (reduce raspiness).
Here is probably more than you care to know: From my "self-edu", I think much of the raspiness is due to exhaust pulses running together. Though the CATS will restrict flow and contribute to this "bunching", the pulses going down their separate paths and having less pressure to overcome from the previous pulse (scavenging by the x-pipe), the pulses should be "cleaner".
Here is probably more than you care to know: From my "self-edu", I think much of the raspiness is due to exhaust pulses running together. Though the CATS will restrict flow and contribute to this "bunching", the pulses going down their separate paths and having less pressure to overcome from the previous pulse (scavenging by the x-pipe), the pulses should be "cleaner".
09-24-2013, 10:06 PM
#54
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Thanks for a nice tip Fatz! 
I'm set on what I want to do. I have to find some nice tips at a nice price. I'm thinking of these tips http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=101 Are these a good fit for my car or does it look bad? Where can I get good tips?
I'm set on what I want to do. I have to find some nice tips at a nice price. I'm thinking of these tips http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=101 Are these a good fit for my car or does it look bad? Where can I get good tips?
09-24-2013, 11:31 PM
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
I don't care for the Vibrant tips. I think the oval or trapezoid/square AMG imitations or large magnaflow ovals look best... Huge matter of preference. Check ebay for ideas, even if not a purchase from them.
09-25-2013, 12:10 AM
#56
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
What is the ideal outlet size for the tips? I know the Inlet Diameter is supposed to be 2.5". Would Dual 3.0" outlet tips look small?
09-25-2013, 02:58 AM
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
From the second page of the pdf sent previously, the VIS openings for the tips are 113/4 inches. The tips i used (ebay oval AMG imitations) are 8 7/8" which left 1 7/16" on either side.
If you leave 3/4" on either side as a minimum (for tips that have a single wall) you are left with a max tip width of 10 1/4". You can use a wider tip (up to 1/2" side clearance) if you use "double wall" tips, as they will run cooler.
I think you're looking for something 7.5" - 10.5" across, and You like.
One other note on tips and their placement. My tips extend out about 1/2" more when at operating temperature vs cold. Pretty sure this is due to the type clamps used to connect the resonators back part of the exhaust to the front part.
If you leave 3/4" on either side as a minimum (for tips that have a single wall) you are left with a max tip width of 10 1/4". You can use a wider tip (up to 1/2" side clearance) if you use "double wall" tips, as they will run cooler.
I think you're looking for something 7.5" - 10.5" across, and You like.
One other note on tips and their placement. My tips extend out about 1/2" more when at operating temperature vs cold. Pretty sure this is due to the type clamps used to connect the resonators back part of the exhaust to the front part.
09-25-2013, 04:50 PM
#58
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
From the second page of the pdf sent previously, the VIS openings for the tips are 113/4 inches. The tips i used (ebay oval AMG imitations) are 8 7/8" which left 1 7/16" on either side.
If you leave 3/4" on either side as a minimum (for tips that have a single wall) you are left with a max tip width of 10 1/4". You can use a wider tip (up to 1/2" side clearance) if you use "double wall" tips, as they will run cooler.
I think you're looking for something 7.5" - 10.5" across, and You like.
One other note on tips and their placement. My tips extend out about 1/2" more when at operating temperature vs cold. Pretty sure this is due to the type clamps used to connect the resonators back part of the exhaust to the front part.
If you leave 3/4" on either side as a minimum (for tips that have a single wall) you are left with a max tip width of 10 1/4". You can use a wider tip (up to 1/2" side clearance) if you use "double wall" tips, as they will run cooler.
I think you're looking for something 7.5" - 10.5" across, and You like.
One other note on tips and their placement. My tips extend out about 1/2" more when at operating temperature vs cold. Pretty sure this is due to the type clamps used to connect the resonators back part of the exhaust to the front part.
09-29-2013, 11:28 PM
#59
MBWorld Fanatic!
kb24forlife24, re exhaust question from lowering thread;
You don't need to do any modding to the car to accommodate the piping . I think there are two options that would make changing anything on the rest of the car unnecessary.
- you could use a piece of "J" or "U" bend pipe to clear (go around) the sway bar (I opted not to do this because I want to minimize the number of bends and degrees of angles.
- you could (as I did) just angle the pipe to clear the sway bar and then angle it back up. these are gentle (30-45 degrees. With the crest of the bend within the range of your tire print, the clearance is not an issue unless you straddle something at that 2.5" (diameter of pipe) point that would be less that 3" from your undercover panel. The distance between the tire contact and pipe stays the same when going over speed bumps and road irreularities, so it's no problem at all for these cases.
If you opt for a "J" or "U" type bend, I would do the same to the other side, to keep the pipe lengths as close as possible. Just have the tech measure the passenger side pipe length and add enough on the driver side to keep them close in length. I think doing this will help to keep the "drone band" as narrow as possible. There is drone in most, if not all, exhaust systems. It is a factor of the sound wavelenght vs the pipe length. So, there will be drone at some RPM range. If that range for each pipe is different, it could expand the overall RPM range where you get drone.
Mine drones at 1900 to 2000 RPM. At this RPM, I am either shifting manually and having some extra fun or cruising at highway speeds (60-65). Downshifting to 6th gear raises the RPM past the drone zone when cruising at 60-65.
You don't need to do any modding to the car to accommodate the piping . I think there are two options that would make changing anything on the rest of the car unnecessary.
- you could use a piece of "J" or "U" bend pipe to clear (go around) the sway bar (I opted not to do this because I want to minimize the number of bends and degrees of angles.
- you could (as I did) just angle the pipe to clear the sway bar and then angle it back up. these are gentle (30-45 degrees. With the crest of the bend within the range of your tire print, the clearance is not an issue unless you straddle something at that 2.5" (diameter of pipe) point that would be less that 3" from your undercover panel. The distance between the tire contact and pipe stays the same when going over speed bumps and road irreularities, so it's no problem at all for these cases.
If you opt for a "J" or "U" type bend, I would do the same to the other side, to keep the pipe lengths as close as possible. Just have the tech measure the passenger side pipe length and add enough on the driver side to keep them close in length. I think doing this will help to keep the "drone band" as narrow as possible. There is drone in most, if not all, exhaust systems. It is a factor of the sound wavelenght vs the pipe length. So, there will be drone at some RPM range. If that range for each pipe is different, it could expand the overall RPM range where you get drone.
Mine drones at 1900 to 2000 RPM. At this RPM, I am either shifting manually and having some extra fun or cruising at highway speeds (60-65). Downshifting to 6th gear raises the RPM past the drone zone when cruising at 60-65.
09-30-2013, 11:23 PM
#60
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
kb24forlife24, re exhaust question from lowering thread;
You don't need to do any modding to the car to accommodate the piping . I think there are two options that would make changing anything on the rest of the car unnecessary.
- you could use a piece of "J" or "U" bend pipe to clear (go around) the sway bar (I opted not to do this because I want to minimize the number of bends and degrees of angles.
- you could (as I did) just angle the pipe to clear the sway bar and then angle it back up. these are gentle (30-45 degrees. With the crest of the bend within the range of your tire print, the clearance is not an issue unless you straddle something at that 2.5" (diameter of pipe) point that would be less that 3" from your undercover panel. The distance between the tire contact and pipe stays the same when going over speed bumps and road irreularities, so it's no problem at all for these cases.
If you opt for a "J" or "U" type bend, I would do the same to the other side, to keep the pipe lengths as close as possible. Just have the tech measure the passenger side pipe length and add enough on the driver side to keep them close in length. I think doing this will help to keep the "drone band" as narrow as possible. There is drone in most, if not all, exhaust systems. It is a factor of the sound wavelenght vs the pipe length. So, there will be drone at some RPM range. If that range for each pipe is different, it could expand the overall RPM range where you get drone.
Mine drones at 1900 to 2000 RPM. At this RPM, I am either shifting manually and having some extra fun or cruising at highway speeds (60-65). Downshifting to 6th gear raises the RPM past the drone zone when cruising at 60-65.
You don't need to do any modding to the car to accommodate the piping . I think there are two options that would make changing anything on the rest of the car unnecessary.
- you could use a piece of "J" or "U" bend pipe to clear (go around) the sway bar (I opted not to do this because I want to minimize the number of bends and degrees of angles.
- you could (as I did) just angle the pipe to clear the sway bar and then angle it back up. these are gentle (30-45 degrees. With the crest of the bend within the range of your tire print, the clearance is not an issue unless you straddle something at that 2.5" (diameter of pipe) point that would be less that 3" from your undercover panel. The distance between the tire contact and pipe stays the same when going over speed bumps and road irreularities, so it's no problem at all for these cases.
If you opt for a "J" or "U" type bend, I would do the same to the other side, to keep the pipe lengths as close as possible. Just have the tech measure the passenger side pipe length and add enough on the driver side to keep them close in length. I think doing this will help to keep the "drone band" as narrow as possible. There is drone in most, if not all, exhaust systems. It is a factor of the sound wavelenght vs the pipe length. So, there will be drone at some RPM range. If that range for each pipe is different, it could expand the overall RPM range where you get drone.
Mine drones at 1900 to 2000 RPM. At this RPM, I am either shifting manually and having some extra fun or cruising at highway speeds (60-65). Downshifting to 6th gear raises the RPM past the drone zone when cruising at 60-65.
BTW do you recommend me just ditching the muffler and going with a res delete with a generic X pipe?
Thanks
10-01-2013, 01:52 AM
#61
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yeah. Just avoid the sway bars and I would recommend not modifying anything to make it a straight run on the passenger side. You probably need only 3/8" clearance or so in case you upgrade your sway bar or wrap the pipes, or etc. Also, with the VIS diffuser it's a bit harder to see the pipes anyway. I did not measure it but I think the bottom of the VIS diffuser is about an inch lower. I'll check mine for you tomorrow. Unless you're on a hill, it's kinda hard for anyone to see the pipes. I tried to get a picture of mine but they did not come out well, as they're wrapped and painted black.
I listened to your clip again and, as i noted before, your exhaust sounds prettty darn goodto me, except for the "raspiness" and being "mono-toned" under acceleration. I think being dual and having more effective scavenging will remedy those things. The muffler will just make it a bit quieter vs using the individual x-pipe. I don't think your exhaust is "too" loud as it is. If you want near the same volume (loudness), use the individual x-pipe. It will lower the volume a bit, but much less reduction than the muffler/x combo and it will not introduce the muscle car rumble at low rpm/idle.
I listened to your clip again and, as i noted before, your exhaust sounds prettty darn goodto me, except for the "raspiness" and being "mono-toned" under acceleration. I think being dual and having more effective scavenging will remedy those things. The muffler will just make it a bit quieter vs using the individual x-pipe. I don't think your exhaust is "too" loud as it is. If you want near the same volume (loudness), use the individual x-pipe. It will lower the volume a bit, but much less reduction than the muffler/x combo and it will not introduce the muscle car rumble at low rpm/idle.
10-01-2013, 02:13 AM
#62
MBWorld Fanatic!
Some pics from the rear of mine. Note the angle of the 3 pairs of pics. I adjusted the brightness on the 2nd of each pair. I am standing in the driveway, downhill from the rear of the car. Hope this helps.
10-01-2013, 06:31 PM
#64
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Thanks for the pics Fatz. I don't think I'm gonna get the VIS diffuser; it's just too much and I don't think it's worth it. I'm just gonna cut the bumper and go from there
10-01-2013, 06:45 PM
#65
MBWorld Fanatic!
It is rather pricey and it can be added later if you come across a good deal. I got mine as part of a group buy for about $350 (from memory).
10-05-2013, 06:11 PM
#66
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I'm just gonna get the tips and go with cutting the bumper itself. I'll keep you guys posted with pics of the parts as I get them.
10-15-2013, 09:29 PM
#67
MBWorld Fanatic!
10-16-2013, 12:12 PM
#68
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
RT TIP 2044906427
Are these the dual tips? Because when I type them in on the parts store it tells me it is the whole exhaust system. If these are the dual round tips I'm looking for, then I'll purchase these right away. Is there a picture of these part #s? Thanks
10-16-2013, 01:47 PM
#69
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hey Fatz, thanks for the pdf. But I won't be buying a diffuser, at least not now. But I have a question on the tips. On the sticky for the part numbers I found these two part #s: LT TIP 2044906327
RT TIP 2044906427
Are these the dual tips? Because when I type them in on the parts store it tells me it is the whole exhaust system. If these are the dual round tips I'm looking for, then I'll purchase these right away. Is there a picture of these part #s? Thanks
RT TIP 2044906427
Are these the dual tips? Because when I type them in on the parts store it tells me it is the whole exhaust system. If these are the dual round tips I'm looking for, then I'll purchase these right away. Is there a picture of these part #s? Thanks
I don't know about the tips you listed. It is probably best to call the parts distributor and ask them to be sure.
10-16-2013, 05:24 PM
#70
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Omega48er asked me to share what I did. I think he is installing a diffuser. The first part of the pdf depicts what I did to get the outline of where to cut; I thought you might use this to outline yours or show it to the person you find to do the cut.
I don't know about the tips you listed. It is probably best to call the parts distributor and ask them to be sure.
I don't know about the tips you listed. It is probably best to call the parts distributor and ask them to be sure.
10-17-2013, 07:10 PM
#71
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Omega48er asked me to share what I did. I think he is installing a diffuser. The first part of the pdf depicts what I did to get the outline of where to cut; I thought you might use this to outline yours or show it to the person you find to do the cut.
I don't know about the tips you listed. It is probably best to call the parts distributor and ask them to be sure.
I don't know about the tips you listed. It is probably best to call the parts distributor and ask them to be sure.
10-17-2013, 08:37 PM
#73
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
10-17-2013, 10:28 PM
#75
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Oh I've seen that thread before, that was too much for my budget. I found nice looking replicas for a fraction of the price (although the actual tip is not as long as the EUROstyle ones it's almost like the OEM tips)
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/7/2...54544792_o.jpg
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/7/2...54544792_o.jpg
