Windshield washer failure, pump good, now what?
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Parkland FLA
2006 CLK 350
Windshield washer failure, pump good, now what?
Read the posts on pump system, replaced pump this morning, nothing. Checked the level switch, shows continuity with fluid in the reservoir. Checked the ground (brown wire) from pump to post ground up and inside motor compartment, five or six brown wires there, continuity. Had a continuous 10 volts or so across the pump connector, and when the switch was pushed, no change in voltage. Switch inside feels like it is functioning properly. No other electrical problems in the car system, so could it be the SAM. SAM sounds expensive!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Parkland FLA
2006 CLK 350
Now the right turn signal won't shut off
I replaced the combination switch this morning, and now I cannot get the right turn signal off. I am sure it has something to do with the clock switch. I am also hearing a clicking sound when I turn the steering wheel. I could not understand the instructions that said to recenter was to turn the dial to the left once and then turn to the right twice?
But Rudeney, I got the washer working, thanks, and now please help.
But Rudeney, I got the washer working, thanks, and now please help.
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I doubt it has to do with the clock spring - that is just used for the wiring to the moving part of the steering wheel (airbag, horn, buttons). I suspect the combination switch is not installed properly, or may part of the new on has broken.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Parkland FLA
2006 CLK 350
All good until I put the steering wheel on
What I can't understand is I can get the turn signal to physically work correctly until I put the steering wheel on. all of the filler plates line up correctly and everything seems fine until the steering wheel is installed, no SRS issues when battery is connected and engine is started, but when I turn the key over to start and run the right turn signal then is on continuously and the turn signal does not work correctly. How do you re-center this clock switch please?
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Joined: Dec 2009
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I still don't see it having anything to do with the clock spring, but here's how to set the correct position of it:
http://benzbits.com/W209/SteeringWhe...ngPosition.pdf
http://benzbits.com/W209/SteeringWhe...ngPosition.pdf
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Parkland FLA
2006 CLK 350
Defective switch out of the box
I took out the new replacement switch (right turn signal stayed on)and compared it to the old replacement switch (no washer control), turn signals worked fine. Come to realize the new switch is defective and I will have to replace again. Put the old back in for now, so the turn signals will work.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 24
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From: Parkland FLA
2006 CLK 350
Defective from the parts supplier
I returned the combination switch, and had to have their mechanic show the front desk that the switch was defective. Replace switch in under a half an hour and all is fine, again my thanks to Rudeney for his guidance. Watch out for Melons in Oakville, they sold me some junk, no locking key and the cutout instructions were not in the original plastic bag, like the new part they replaced. Thanks,
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 3
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2006 C280 4matic
Have same exact situation was the problem the combo switch
Read the posts on pump system, replaced pump this morning, nothing. Checked the level switch, shows continuity with fluid in the reservoir. Checked the ground (brown wire) from pump to post ground up and inside motor compartment, five or six brown wires there, continuity. Had a continuous 10 volts or so across the pump connector, and when the switch was pushed, no change in voltage. Switch inside feels like it is functioning properly. No other electrical problems in the car system, so could it be the SAM. SAM sounds expensive!!
Washer pump won't work. Did everything that Todderrobert did before I found his post. Ran a jumper from battery to pump and pump works. Pump's Brown wire has continuity to negative battery cable. Tried to trace the White/violet wire with a toner and could not locate where the wire went to. Using a VOM, there is 11.0volts at the pump connector whether the vehicle is on or not and the combination switch has no effect on the 11,0v. voltage. Everything else on the combo switch works fine. After finding todderobert's post, I decided to stop looking for the problem. Can anyone confirm that replacing the combo switch sounds like the most likely solution?
