Mkard

Long Post Warning! Hiya, and a reality check for CLK 320
Hello to all,
It is with some trepidation that I introduce myself (and issues) onto these boards. Some very excellent and productive back-and-forth has occurred on this MBWorld forum. Thanks.
I’ve been reading these threads for some weeks now. Many things on my “Concerned” list, as I find myself unexpectedly the owner of a Mercedes Benz. Largely GM, Toyota and Lexus up till now. Oh, and air-cooled Bugs 30yrs ago!! I’ve become quite aware of how much I don’t know by following some of the excellent threads here as regards W209 and some others as appropriate.
Surprise acquisition is a 2005 CLK 320 Coupe with 90K + miles. That would be@165K km for you benighted denizens of the world who DON’T have speedometers properly displaying Furlongs-per-Fortnight! Left the factory in October of 2005. 2nd owner had kept it garaged (in Arizona, a must) as though she loved it for almost 7 yrs. Dealer serviced for the important markers.
After having a pre-purchase inspection done at one of the three Mercedes dealerships in my area (not the one across the street from the BMW dealership on whose wholesale lot my wife and daughter had found this little charmer), I am now trying to make a plan based on the MB Tech’s write-up. BTW, I was charged one hour labor for this service, tech, also a one-time Marine, spent 2.5 hours with this car at his service bay, so I have some confidence that most of the major areas were covered. Semper Fi.

PPI as listed: -all accompanied by dealer estimate charges $$$$

Evap fuel system code- many wor$$t cases possible, I changed w/MB Filler Cap. No faults have reappeared in 10 days.

Engine main seal slight leak

Bushings (front) age-cracked

Motor and xmsn mounts aged and collapsed

Rear tires show some inner tread-wear and age-cracking (production date Michelins @ July 2011)

5-speed auto (722.6) needs a first time xmsn fluid flush and fill with filter change before 100K mi.

Yep, here we go again.

My main focus at this time is on the main seal (if it is a “Slow Electron Day”, no possible way of determining just how much oil is in this engine!), and the transmission (xmsn, if you hadn’t already figured) fluid/filter. Engine main seems pretty straight-forward, just separate and R & R seal. Xmsn is still a bit of a puzzler. I am asking you to correct/confirm that I’ve Grok’d the relevant forums/threads…

-----A power flush, including cooling lines of @14 quarts of xxx.14 ATF (spec’d for 722.9 7-spd xmsn) is the only sensible way to go. A 4 to 5 qt “drain, filter change, and fill” just won’t do. Regards to Dr. Ruck.
-----Requires special machine to permit filling via “overflow” tube at tranny pan. If Indy mech doesn’t have this machine, then pressure evacuate via top radiator coolant tube connection while adding via what should have been dipstick tube. (I haven’t a lift, so I will need someone else to do this).
----- Tranny pan was supposed to be updated for this engine/transmission in W209 series. Ensure that new pan/tube is installed at this time. MB part number readily available.
----- Replace TCU sensor with o-rings regardless
-----Not all tranny pans come with magnetic plug. If available, clean and re-install. Options?
----- Current radiator is manufactured by Valero. Replace with Behr unit before beginning xmsn FF&F. Flush and fill coolant system when xmsn portion complete. Don’t bother to sample and test ATF for coolant contamination, just yank the silly thing. This is sage advice for all production dates?

If I’ve missed any obvious take-away’s from the many threads and posts concerning these issues, please point me in the right direction. I do plan on using an eager Indy “Import” mechanic to do most everything except xmsn mount and fuel filter (which seems to be the original). Spark plugs and simple stuff I can handle. But engine lubricant seal and transmission type issues, are likely beyond me.
BTW--I seem to recall that many of the AT’s that I’ve done basic service on in the past, required one to cycle through the gears during flush/fill procedure to ensure that the control valve fluids were cleared-out. I didn’t note any mention of this in the .pdfs and other DIY guides I’ve seen here on MBWorld. Did I miss this step? Please underline it for me somehow if I did, as I’ll want to ensure Indy mech has what he needs.
Again, thank you for the excellent forum. There are some truly wondrous contributors to MBWorld, they and you, have my appreciation and gratitude.

P.S. Sorry for the overlong post. My kid is learning to drive on this car, and I hope that this safest of pretty vehicles (or prettiest of safe vehicles?) will not leave her stranded over the next 4 to 8 years. So, I am trying to do my bit. Thank you for your patience.

Yidney

A little advice. Not to preach, but you are correct that your post is overlong - by a factor of 5. It takes 10 minutes to read and even then doesn't have any real clear questions you are asking. We don't need to know where you bought it or that your indy was a marine or that your rear tires have wear on the inside unless you have a question about your rear tires. All of them pretty much have that wear - these cars usually have negative camber, and unless you get a special bolt kit installed, it is not adjustable. Should you get your tranny serviced? Yes? Does it take a special tool to fill it through the drain hole? I requires a fluid pump. That fluid pump can be as simple as a screw on plunger for each quart like a hand soap dispenser you can buy at any auto parts store. I don't think the plug was ever magnetic - there are two magnets stuck on the pan inside. The most important thing about your tranny fluid change if you go to an indy is that he uses the correct fluid, and not one he thinks "will work." Correct fluid or go elsewhere. The second most important thing is he knows how to get the level correct at a certain temperature. I would not have this job done at most any generic repair place - they have to know what they are doing.


EDIT: The only other special tool is a threaded adapter - basically a hollow bolt - but if you have to ask about that you are already in the wrong place.

Mkard

Yidney,

The post did warn about length. The style was intended to be both pleasant and informative as regards how car was acquired and overall condition. I both warned and apologized. Sorry you had to read it twice.

I believe that I had made clear both the importance and identity of the correct MB spec'd ATF as xxx.14. Expressed in that fashion as I hadn't the first three digits at my fingertips. It is 236.14 of course.

I stated that here were the listed results of the PPI done at MB dealership, therefore I included all of the few items reported and how thorough the Tech was. BTW when speaking of a person, Marine is always capitalized. I then declared my concerns (2) about what to do next.

The questions were of two categories, did I correctly infer solution paths from the many posts about these two areas of concern? And, did I miss something? If that was the case, to then please point me in the right direction on MBWorld.

The Edit of your post was not particularly helpful as I had made clear that the xmsn flush (not a "drain and fill") was to be done by an Indy. Most, I suspect, have an extensive tool chest.

You are free to think that I am in the wrong place. Having read input on these forums from other contributors who have established both their expertise and their civility, I don't agree.

MKard

MarcusF

Personally, I wouldn’t flush the transmission. I know the alleged benefits of getting every ounce of fluid out, but I would simply have the fluid and filter changed. My local dealer has done mine three times now. It's about $300 or so where I live (6 hours west of you). The dealer did the one-time $2 O-ring while they were at it (it's $2 while they're doing other work, a bit more if that's all they do). However, it's your car so it's whatever you decide.


If you personally are doing the rear main, the motor mounts are a piece of cake. And those mounts should be done sooner rather than later. Besides, do you really want to drop the trans and have the motor (partially) suspended by busted mounts? Really?


If you’re paying an Indy for the rear main, pay them to do the mounts while they're at it. Depending on how long the motor mounts have been ignored, the trans mount may be toast too.


BTW, the plugs have been changed once already, right? If not, it's 5 years or 100,000 – whichever comes first. If they're due, now is better than later. If you wait another 6 weeks it'll be 100+ degrees every day for the following 5 months.


Congrats on the car. Enjoy the ride. And attend some local MB events - the Desert Stars group has plenty.

Yidney

"You are free to think that I am in the wrong place"


I think you missed my fundamental point, and I apparently also missed yours. You can type as many words as you please, and you certainly write better than most and know what punctuation is. My point was simply that of the 100+ people who have opened this thread already, probably 5 read it - 95% saw how long it was and closed it. Good, bad, or indifferent, that's just the way it is.

Mkard

Marcus,
Thanks for your information. At what mileage did your shop do the first drain-and-fill?

The 6yrs of service records I have available indicate that previous owner's Dealership service bought in to the MBUSA "Sealed for Life" label. Sigh.

I agree with you about the motor mounts, and the xmsn mount is also toast. I figure I can handle that one, but the motor mounts are likely beyond me. No lift. Also, somewhat corpulent. Would you expect a labor rate benefit on motor mounts with bushings, or either with rear main seal?

You are right that plugs need doing. I'll take care of that myself. A little blood on knuckles means I own the car, right?

Again, thanks for relating some of your experience. This is all new to me.

Mkard

MarcusF

My local dealer did the first transmission service in October of 2006 at 84K - my service writer was on top of things and was recommending it back then.

I have no idea what the dealer would charge for motor mounts. I did those, and almost everything else, myself. Although, I don't do transmission fluid baths. For $300, the dealer can have that job.

I don't have a lift either, but with four homemade stands, I can get a little elevation without having to worry if it's going anywhere.

Mkard

Yidney,

Peace.

As Marcus pointed out, there is a lot for me to learn. And, I agree that it is good to get as much of this out of the way as possible before AZ fries our brains. Again.

Mkard

Mkard

Marcus,

I am a bit paranoid about the TC residual, and will likely fork over the $ for a qualified and equipped shop to do it. Trying to research shops and be quite selective as to who I'll allow to do the job. After that, I'll follow your example for fluid drain-fill-and filter.
Btw, did you have your transmission pan replaced with the new design with longer tube, or just carry-on with pan as equipped in '04? Mine has original old Part #. $90 part with gasket, so I'm wondering.

I like your garage set up! The substantial wood floats are a great idea. The wall-art is too. Thanks again.

Mkard

Rudeney

Hi Mkard. Welcome to the forum! On the transmission, you have the 722.6, so there are no pan revision issues, and yes, it was sold as "sealed for life". MBZ never officially came out and specified any maintenance, but unofficially they told to dealers that they could do a one-time 70K mile pan-drop fluid (4qt - 5qt) and filter change. Personally, I recommend that every 40K miles. And if it's never been done, do it ASAP.

Mkard

eRudeney,

Thanks.
So, if no other reason to swap pan, merely replace filter/gasket, clean it and leave it be with old part# pan and fill tube unit in place.

I absolutely will do xmsn flush, filter and fill as soon as possible. Will follow-up with <40kmi drain/filter/fill as a new religion.

Which leads to one of my original questions: cycling AT valve body ?
MB document AR27.55-P-0100A
Flush automatic transmission and converter 11.3.05
makes no mention of "going thru gears during flush" as was once done on Detroit Iron products. I have some slight concern about residuals in actuators etc, and would like your comment if possible.

Again, thanks for your reply and all of the other great posts by yourself and Glyn.

Mkard

Rudeney

Yes, you do need to shift through the gears when refilling and checking the level:

http://benzbits.com/722_6/FluidFilterChange.pdf
http://benzbits.com/722_6/LevelCheck.pdf

mis3

I replaced my engine and transmission mounts 2 months ago.
I used MB parts and my indie charged me 3 hours of labor. Altogether I paid $520CAN for the whole job (parts and labour) and the end results were 100% worth the effort.

Mkard

Thanks. Those are the links I failed to find.

Thanks to all who have intro'd me to MBWorld community.

Mkard

Mkard

mis3,

Good to know. On my list for sure.

Thanks
Mkard

Zax63

Warning:this response is at least 42% longer than it needs to be.

I believe your car has only 145k KM's on it, not 165KM as stated. I would agree the post was longer than need be, not by a factor of 5 as alleged as it then would have been quite abbreviated, but maybe by 35 percent. I would also agree that you did pre-warn us and I did continue to read it. I think maybe you lost some folks at the "furloughs to furlongs" part...I expect that you might have had more consumers without some fluff. That being said, most of us do it as well. Obviously proud of being a Marine, and well deserved. Thanks for your service. As per your chastisement about proper capitalization of the word "marine"- it is technically only capitalized when a)starting a sentence or b)when referring to the branch of the Armed Forces.

Good luck with the car. Not as reliable as your aforementioned chariots but with proper maintenance these do continue on for quite some time and can be a bit more rewarding to drive.