mguerrero

So, Thanks Ruedney I found out I have the dreaded Valeo Radiator - so I'm looking to order a new one - I found several brands online and finally tracked down a Behr brand - any reason to go with Behr over other brands like Nissens? Also, can someone give me a parts list and if possible part #'s?? Thanks in advance!

I have a 2003 CLK55 with a 02/2003 build date

Rudeney

I would go with Behr as that is the OEM brand and they seem to be mostly trouble-free. Other than the radiator and coolant, the only other thing you may need is some transmission fluid to replace what is lost. Here's the WIS doc:

http://benzbits.com/w203/Radiator.pdf

mguerrero

thanks so much! I think I'm gonna replace the hoses while I'm there do you happen to know the part #'s?

clkcadet

Hi

Sorry to bump this, as I did not want to start a new thread as there are many!

I recently bought a 2003 CLK500, knowing that the PO replaced the radiator back in 2008.

Now you would think Benz would put a BEHR in there, but I look under the hood and it is still a Valeo. It is part number RA 1409, and build date of 11/11/2007.

I am just curious if I am safe with this radiator, or should I go ahead and replace it? Transmission shifts fine, no jerking or anything like that... but I rather be safe than sorry. As a quick note, I am not a heavy driver at most I would put 3k miles a year.

Please let me know, thanks!

mguerrero

I think you're fine as they fixed the issue in 2004 I think - although if it was me I wouldn't take a chance if you're planning on keeping it for a while ... how many miles since replaced?

clkcadet

Its been about 50-60k since changed. Tranny fluid has also been flushed about 25k miles ago, and coolant also has been flushed recently (maybe 15k miles ago?, need to check service paperwork)

I am glad to hear that I am safe though. I just want to make sure I am ok to run on the Valeo radiator for a little while until I have the time to get it replaced.

mguerrero

yeah you're fine - they stopped putting the Valeo's for about 1.5 yrs and then then once Valeo fixed the issue they resumed using both the Valeo and Behr ... I just bought all the parts to replace mine ... do you have receipts proving it was replaced?

clkcadet

It is on the car fax, date and mileage both noted being done at a Mercedes dealer

mguerrero

yeah then you're good - I'd replace it at around 80-90k after the change

kb24forlife24

Would my '05 have a Valeo? Can you tell by VIN?

Glyn M Ruck

It could have either Valeo or Behr. They were used interchangeably.

clkcadet

You would need to look under the hood. There should be a label on the top of the radiator. Regardless, if you do happen to have a Valeo you should be OK. The batch that had problems affected the 2003 CLKs.

Eojj

My 04 had a valeo radiator. I didn't want to take any chances so I just changed it out anyways. The radiator I got was a nissens. For some reason the invoice inside the nissens box says Behr. The part number also indicate it being a Behr as well. If you google Behr vs valeo vs nissens radiators, you'll probably find mixed reviews for all of them. Regardless, as long as it's not the valeo that's within the affected date ranges for our cars I'm happy haha...

mguerrero

question for you ... I'm literally in the middle of replacing my radiator but cannot seem to figure out how to remove the top brace that sits right above the radiator ... what do I need to remove to get that off? bumper??

Rudeney

No need to remove the bumper - this doc may help:

http://benzbits.com/w209/EngineFan.pdf

mguerrero

thx for your response - I ended up having to remove the bumper as I could NOT remove the oil coolers and the horn without removing the grill which was attached to the bumper - it worked out anyways as I have a set new xenons I was waiting to install

mguerrero

another question, how do you properly step by step bleed this system? I keep reading different examples ... Thx!

Rudeney

There is really no special process for bleeding the coolant system. The proper cold level in the reservoir is right at the "crimp" edge. Leave the cap off, start the engine, run the cabin heater on high (so the valve opens and circulates coolant through the heater core). Continue to top off fluid until it begins to expand past the cold level, then replace the cap and you're good to go.

mguerrero

thx so much!