Happy holidays everyone . I ran the power wire from the battery all the way to the rear seat . Can i pass the power wire through the passenger rear seats or does it have to go through the driver side ?

 

Passenger side is fine- that's how I routed mine.

 

tried running it but i can not get the seat back to come off . i removed the seat bottoms and the 2 bolts holding the seat back and it will not come up .

 

Why not tap into the rear SAM? It already has a high-amperage power supply to it.

 

I dont want to mess with the sam if it goes bad i will have a bigger headache . I got the wire into the car . i am having a hard time getting the back seat out and there isnt enough room for me to see behind it.

 

Is there a lug or something to attach a wire to or do you need to scotch lock? I thought about adding something like an Infinity Basslink but didn't want to tear out my interior to run a wire.

 

What amperage do you need? Unless you are looking at something over 80 amps, just use a fuse tap into an open slot on the SAM. Beyond that, then I'd wire into the SAM feed itself, which will require installing your own taps and terminal, but the feed wire there should be good for 200amps or better.

 

I don't for see any self-powered sub needing more than 30amps. Now for a solution for the remote turn on lead, either need a fuse slot that only gets power when the key is on or a current sensing amp, hmmm.

 

Rodney you da man, this will be easy! Found this in the Basslink user manual:

" For speaker-level applications,
a remote connection is not required,
since BassLink’s Auto Turn-On feature will
sense voltage on the speaker wires to
automatically turn on BassLink."

20A fuse required.

 

That's exactly what I did for the subwoofer amp I put in the kid's C240 - connected to a switched circuit the rear fuse panel and it does an auto-on when it gets audio input.

 

I am running a 4 gauge wire to run a 5ch amp . rather go straight to the battery . Plus i figured out the issue . on convertibles there is a metal shelf it has a bout 12 bolts and will require the whole trunk liners to come out but there is a small hole on the right and left side . so i just used coat hanger and a flash light to run the wire to the back . I should be done with the install soon...

 

I am considering adding a small sub to my CLK cabriolet.

From what I see in this thread, if my amp needs a fuse lower than 80a I can just use the SAM for power?
My amp will want a 60a fuse (Clarion sub amp).

I intend to put a sub in the rear driver side footwell (ie where the rear passenger behind the driver would put their feet). I will remove the sub for the rare time I have 4 passengers, so far it is usually 1-3.

I am also considering simply disabling the stock sub, and using that signal to the new sub amp. I find the stock sub does not do much for me.

 

The rear SAM is fed by a 200 amp fuse on the pre-fuse box (under the hood - with the red jump terminal on it). Of course you can actually put a 200 amp device back there as it still needs enough power for other consumers, but 60 amps should be fine. I would wire it directly to the main power feed coming into the SAM and then immediately into an inline fuse.

 

while you can run it off the sam i would not. Spend the extra time and money to run a dedicated line with and inline fuse/breaker no more that 12" from the battery. These cars are odd when it comes to power draw. I have never had an issue with a dedicated line though. Just an example. My fuse housings for the AC system recently melted. They did not pop the plastic part melted. That was a result of bad brushes on the blower motor drawing slightly too much power.