mbnz230

Finally had the time to do a coolant change tonight after like 30k after purchase, coolant is very green, replace it with zerex g05. will probably have to change it one more time soon, cause I didn't do a full flush, I can see stuff floating in there and a hint of green. while doing the coolant change, I notice my steering rack boot is torn up. I hope I don't have to replace the whole rack just because of that plastic boot. I am not sure how that happen, looks like the metal rings that ties it in place is gone.

DRACO

Just mark or better yet, measure the tie rod end and remove it, remove the torn boot and replace it.

You know this, but you really should not mix the fluids.

mbnz230

thanks. i know mixing it is not good, it's just too much trouble to look for the crank case coolant drain bolt. i will replace the fluid again when i do the boot. i can see some rust starting to form, so when i replace the new boot, what type of grease should i use. just regular bearing grease ok.

i also notice some oil or maybe transmission leak here in the picture. anyone know where it's coming from. looks to be very wet there too. after i repair the boot i need to look into it. it's leaking pretty bad i think.

Rudeney

Zerex G-05 is perfectly fine to mix with genuine MBZ fluid.

There is a repair kit for the steering gear boot: A2034602300

You need to find out what's leaking. If it's transmission fluid, you need to fix it ASAP as it can cause limp mode. If it's oil, it could be the lower oil pan leaking.

mbnz230

thanks, i just order the part last night. it will arrive sometime next week, so when i do the boot i might check out what exactly is leaking. i wish i have a lift . as for the coolant, it was the cheap green coolant that was in there, not even the light green extended lift stuff but dark green. i never thought changing the coolant is this easy, easier than an oil change.

merceBENZ

Not so easy if you do it right way. Did you remove bolt from crank case to drain coolant out of it? If not, you still got old leftovers mixed with fresh. This is per WIS.

mbnz230

I should have drain the fluid in the crankcase since what's in there now is a different brand of coolant but if you have the mercedes coolant it would be fine to just drain the radiator and be all set, maybe just do it every couple years.

mbnz230

finally finished putting on the new boot. does anyone know the torque spec for the outer tie rod ball joint 21mm nut. i just torgue it at 120 ft lbs. its a castle nut but there's no cotter pin or hole so if that nut is loose and the ball joint pops out, it would be really bad, the wheel can go side ways

There was alot of sand inside the steering rack. I sprayed it with liquid wrench and wipe the best I can. it's way better than before now. This job took me at least a couple hours, setting up the jacks and getting all the tools.

I still don't know where the leaks are coming from. I was hoping it be the transmission pan gasket or the electrical connector on top of the pan, but that looks dry. The leaks look like it's in front of the transmission, any ideas?

Rudeney

It is torqued in two stages. First to 50Nm, then an additional 60-degree rotation.

Rocman8

thats probably the rear main seal leaking

mbnz230

50nm is like 37 ft lbs. plus 60 degree, i will have to try that out, thanks. i torque my wheel lug nuts at 100ft lbs (17mm bolt). so for the 21mm nut 120lbs, that was my logic.

mbnz230

i hope there's a diy out there somewhere. time to do research again, thanks

DRACO

Tie Rod 35-37 ft lbs, Two stage torque is best.

Rear Main Seal requires an trans drop at a minimum but the proper way is an engine pull :-(. I am not looking forward to this.

Rocman8

Absolutely wrong information

Rudeney

Unless there is another reason to pull the engine, the rear main seal is accessed by pulling the transmission, then removing the flywheel. Once all of that's out of the way, it's a fairly easy job. Pulling the transmission requires draining its fluid, remove the exhaust system (at least from the manifolds to the Y pipe), and disconnecting the drive shaft. This can be done on jack stands with a transmission floor jack. You can slide the transmission over and back enough to access the engine bell housing. I'd budget at least 12 hours total as a DIY.