Purge Valve ?
#1
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Daughters car: 2004 CLK 320 Convertible. VIN: WDBTK65G84T031371
Purge Valve ?
Hi, I disconnected my purge valve to check the electrical connection and now my car wont start. The starter engages, but does not stop trying to start the car. I have to turn the ignition to the off position before the starter stops.
What did I do wrong?
What did I do wrong?
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Daughters car: 2004 CLK 320 Convertible. VIN: WDBTK65G84T031371
Hmm, cold water. I'll try that. Thanks!!
If it is the CPS, can I DIY without having to reprogram or reset anything?
If it is the CPS, can I DIY without having to reprogram or reset anything?
Last edited by CV1; 08-10-2016 at 01:27 AM.
#5
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It's not a bad DIY job. Removing the MAF helps, but be careful with that as the plastic and rubber on it tend to be brittle with age. No reprogramming is necessary. Do get a genuine or Bosch from a trusted source - there's lots of cheap Chinese crap out there.
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Daughters car: 2004 CLK 320 Convertible. VIN: WDBTK65G84T031371
Ok. I did the CPS job along with the valve cover gaskets including the small breather gaskets with black RTV. I also replaced all ancillary hoses. Let me just say, the CPS removal and install, is a PITA DIY job. Nobody said anything about the challenges of going into it with a well paid for Beer Gut and large ham-hock type hands! Start to finish was about 7 hours, with me complaining most of that time.
Disconnecting the left side fuel line, removing the valve cover, and removing the MAF plus its housing is the way to prep for this. Putting a movers blanket and towels on top of the engine saved me from much grief I'm sure. Using a mirror, a magnet, and a Thumb Ratchet helps tremendously for the CPS job. I only needed a 6" flex and a 4" extension(mostly the 6"). Aftermath; sore lower back and left knee, some minor knuckle scrapes. Overall satisfaction and knowing I saved my daughter some money. Thanks to this forum and the valuable help its members provide.
Disconnecting the left side fuel line, removing the valve cover, and removing the MAF plus its housing is the way to prep for this. Putting a movers blanket and towels on top of the engine saved me from much grief I'm sure. Using a mirror, a magnet, and a Thumb Ratchet helps tremendously for the CPS job. I only needed a 6" flex and a 4" extension(mostly the 6"). Aftermath; sore lower back and left knee, some minor knuckle scrapes. Overall satisfaction and knowing I saved my daughter some money. Thanks to this forum and the valuable help its members provide.
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#8
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Ok. I did the CPS job along with the valve cover gaskets including the small breather gaskets with black RTV. I also replaced all ancillary hoses. Let me just say, the CPS removal and install, is a PITA DIY job. Nobody said anything about the challenges of going into it with a well paid for Beer Gut and large ham-hock type hands! Start to finish was about 7 hours, with me complaining most of that time.
Disconnecting the left side fuel line, removing the valve cover, and removing the MAF plus its housing is the way to prep for this. Putting a movers blanket and towels on top of the engine saved me from much grief I'm sure. Using a mirror, a magnet, and a Thumb Ratchet helps tremendously for the CPS job. I only needed a 6" flex and a 4" extension(mostly the 6"). Aftermath; sore lower back and left knee, some minor knuckle scrapes. Overall satisfaction and knowing I saved my daughter some money. Thanks to this forum and the valuable help its members provide.
Disconnecting the left side fuel line, removing the valve cover, and removing the MAF plus its housing is the way to prep for this. Putting a movers blanket and towels on top of the engine saved me from much grief I'm sure. Using a mirror, a magnet, and a Thumb Ratchet helps tremendously for the CPS job. I only needed a 6" flex and a 4" extension(mostly the 6"). Aftermath; sore lower back and left knee, some minor knuckle scrapes. Overall satisfaction and knowing I saved my daughter some money. Thanks to this forum and the valuable help its members provide.
The million dollar question is it all fixed now?
#9
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Daughters car: 2004 CLK 320 Convertible. VIN: WDBTK65G84T031371
Yes, its all fixed! The car starts quickly now, seems to feel smoother, and my daughter is happy. I'll keep an eye on the gaskets, but I think they're good too.
Next project on this car is replacing the front wheel bearings.
Next project on this car is replacing the front wheel bearings.
#10
Should I plan to plan these clips/ plastic/ rubber?
#11
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I would go ahead and buy new vacuum hoses and plastic clamp. They are not very expensive. You might also need a new throttle elbow - there is a plastic clip on it that holds that back of the MAF sensor and it's prone to breaking. It should come wit new gaskets for both ends (the throttle and MAF sensor).
#12
I would go ahead and buy new vacuum hoses and plastic clamp. They are not very expensive. You might also need a new throttle elbow - there is a plastic clip on it that holds that back of the MAF sensor and it's prone to breaking. It should come wit new gaskets for both ends (the throttle and MAF sensor).
I visited the parts store. I saw that the part number of this MAF is 1121590180 but not sure about the other parts. If you don't mind, can you please share the other part numbers?
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Rudeney (08-17-2016)
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Daughters car: 2004 CLK 320 Convertible. VIN: WDBTK65G84T031371
While doing the job, I noticed that I caused a plastic loom wire wrap to crumble. Now the wires back there are unprotected. Where do they go to, and should I go back in there and rewrap them, or am I fine leaving them alone?
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Daughters car: 2004 CLK 320 Convertible. VIN: WDBTK65G84T031371
I know that's the right thing to do, and I hate leaving stuff incomplete. I'll buy some of that split plastic loom and tear everything back down when she comes back for a visit. Hopefully we wont have a bunch of melted wires...