Low coolant warning but no leaks
Currently, I'm needing to put about 200ml of demineralized water in every 2-3 weeks (in response to a low coolant warning). Do people have any ideas as to what would be the likely cause of this coolant usage?
For background, I've done a fair bit of maintenance myself since I bought it in November but also took it into Anthony Costello Automotive (Canberra's best Merc/BMW independent specialist) to replace front/rear shocks, perform a tranny service and investigate coolant usage and a few oil leaks. $3,000 later.....
So, they replaced a few O-rings and gaskets (oil filter housing, PS reservoir) and the oil leaks appear to have been fixed. However, they discovered engine oil in the coolant expansion tank and traced it back to a leaking oil cooler. They replaced it. They reported no coolant in the transmission oil and that the head gasket(s) were ok (I have no idea how they formed that conclusion).
They performed 2 coolant pressure tests and couldn't see any leaks and I haven't seen any either. I know the Valeo radiator is quite new, as it has a manufactured in 'April 2015' sticker on it. It's not blowing any white smoke and the oil looks normal.
Any ideas - as I'm at a bit of a loss and don't really want to start randomly replacing things that may or may not fix it up.
Cheers,
Ben
Last week, my mechanic and I pressurized the system from the water reservoir and started checking for leaks and found nothing even after removing the bottom plastic panel and getting under the car. Kindly note that the water reservoir was changed to a new one a year ago. We couldn't spot anything at all. He's saying the leak could be caused by the HVAC system where the evaporator leaks. He's saying it's a common issue with these cars.
What do you think? Anything else for me to check before replacing the evaporator? I think I should definitely have him check the coolant pump based on what you said.
Last week, my mechanic and I pressurized the system from the water reservoir and started checking for leaks and found nothing even after removing the bottom plastic panel and getting under the car. Kindly note that the water reservoir was changed to a new one a year ago. We couldn't spot anything at all. He's saying the leak could be caused by the HVAC system where the evaporator leaks. He's saying it's a common issue with these cars.
What do you think? Anything else for me to check before replacing the evaporator? I think I should definitely have him check the coolant pump based on what you said.

Sent the pic to my mechanic and he's is saying it's either the cooler inside the radiator or the separate oil cooler next to the oil cap since my car is european spec and has the separate cooler.
Last week, my mechanic and I pressurized the system from the water reservoir and started checking for leaks and found nothing even after removing the bottom plastic panel and getting under the car. Kindly note that the water reservoir was changed to a new one a year ago. We couldn't spot anything at all. He's saying the leak could be caused by the HVAC system where the evaporator leaks. He's saying it's a common issue with these cars.
What do you think? Anything else for me to check before replacing the evaporator? I think I should definitely have him check the coolant pump based on what you said.
I had replaced the oil cooler seals in April of 2016.
Pictures below are after a 35-minute trip this morning. I am stopping to drive the car until I take it to the garage and get it fixed.

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I had replaced the oil cooler seals in April of 2016.
Pictures below are after a 35-minute trip this morning. I am stopping to drive the car until I take it to the garage and get it fixed.


There are some other signs to look for such as excessive water/condensation from the exhaust pipe. I'm not an expert, but I don't think it can be a faulty radiator. The problem these cars have is with coolant mixing with transmission oil in the radiator although to my knowledge that was rectified in CLKs manufactured after September 2003. Having a cracked oil cooler may be the problem. Having new oil cooler seals won't necessarily matter if the structure is cracked somewhere (as mine was). Replacing the oil cooler is a cheap fix. Perhaps try that before you go doing the head gasket which will cost a bomb in labor.
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There are some other signs to look for such as excessive water/condensation from the exhaust pipe. I'm not an expert, but I don't think it can be a faulty radiator. The problem these cars have is with coolant mixing with transmission oil in the radiator although to my knowledge that was rectified in CLKs manufactured after September 2003. Having a cracked oil cooler may be the problem. Having new oil cooler seals won't necessarily matter if the structure is cracked somewhere (as mine was). Replacing the oil cooler is a cheap fix. Perhaps try that before you go doing the head gasket which will cost a bomb in labor.My mechanic is saying the oil cooler is the first fix to attempt since it's the cheapest and easiest just like you said. He did say that it's probably its internal structure which fails regardless of the seals. He also said that the M112/113 engines rarely ever suffer from trouble because of the head gasket so I'm just hoping it's the oil cooler. Are we able to inspect its internal when we remove it to ensure that it is indeed the problem?
My mechanic is saying the oil cooler is the first fix to attempt since it's the cheapest and easiest just like you said. He did say that it's probably its internal structure which fails regardless of the seals. He also said that the M112/113 engines rarely ever suffer from trouble because of the head gasket so I'm just hoping it's the oil cooler. Are we able to inspect its internal when we remove it to ensure that it is indeed the problem?
Sometimes people choose to replace the whole oil filter housing assembly the oil cooler is attached to. A replacement housing comes with a new cooler prebolted to it. It's also surpriingly inexpensive. I'd just start however with the cooler.
What do you think? Anything else for me to check before replacing the evaporator? I think I should definitely have him check the coolant pump based on what you said.




Sometimes people choose to replace the whole oil filter housing assembly the oil cooler is attached to. A replacement housing comes with a new cooler prebolted to it. It's also surpriingly inexpensive. I'd just start however with the cooler.
Sometimes people choose to replace the whole oil filter housing assembly the oil cooler is attached to. A replacement housing comes with a new cooler prebolted to it. It's also surpriingly inexpensive. I'd just start however with the cooler.
Labour is pretty cheap where I live so it's not an issue. This whole thing along with the oil change will probably cost me $30 in labour. I booked an appointment with the mechanic on Saturday morning to get it fixed. I'll buy the cooler, oil, oil filter, and he'll do the labour.
I'll keep cleaning the oil cap until it no longer has the milky mix.
After changing the oil cooler, the car kept giving me a low coolant warning every 2-4 days and the milky stuff kept showing up on the oil cap.
This past weekend, we pressurized the system for an hour and saw the pressure decrease yet we inspected every inch of the car and the only place where we found a water leak was in the AC/Heater heat exchanger where we discovered a significant amount of water under the driver's carpet and which had leaked from the exchanger. So we replaced the exchanger and the engine oil/filter this past Saturday, but today the car gave a low coolant warning and the milky stuff is back on the oil filler cap although slightly.
I believe the worst is upon which is the head gasket. I'm honestly going to repair/replace that and sell the car as soon as I find a good W204 C-class. I've had enough with this car! So much for the robustness of the M112/722.6 package yet I keep finding myself needing to repair stuff every week or every other week. All this while I'm OCD with my car and fix things right away. I've never neglected it a single time.
There are some other signs to look for such as excessive water/condensation from the exhaust pipe. I'm not an expert, but I don't think it can be a faulty radiator. The problem these cars have is with coolant mixing with transmission oil in the radiator although to my knowledge that was rectified in CLKs manufactured after September 2003. Having a cracked oil cooler may be the problem. Having new oil cooler seals won't necessarily matter if the structure is cracked somewhere (as mine was). Replacing the oil cooler is a cheap fix. Perhaps try that before you go doing the head gasket which will cost a bomb in labor.



