Instrument cluster won't turn off
#1
Instrument cluster won't turn off
I have a 2006 CLK350 W209, and for quite some time now (at least 6 months), the instrument cluster will not turn off when I turn off the car, remove the key (keyless start) but take the key away from the car, close the door, lock the car, etc. It will just stay on and drain the battery (if its longer than 12 hours or so, the battery will go down enough that I can't start it without a jump). Only way I can get it off is to remove the fuse. I'm no mechanic, and not very handy with cars. I took it to a certified Mercedes repair place (not a dealer), and they couldn't really figure it out, wanted me to replace the cluster (at $1100 or something ridiculous), so, Ive taken to just removing the fuse. Its a real hassle though, so was hoping someone on here might have some idea of what is wrong and suggestions for fixing it. My first ever post here, hoping you guys can help!
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I can tell you this is not a common issue. Not sure I recall anybody ever raising it before in the 6+ years I've been on here. I'm sure somebody who knows more about the electrical layout will chime in. Does the fuse you pull control anything besides the cluster? I'm curious whether the power shut off to the cluster is actually located in the cluster itself, such that replacing the cluster might fix it. Common sense would tell you that the power shut off occurs somewhere upstream of the cluster, but common sense doesn't have much to do with modern cars.
#3
Instrument cluster will not turn off.
Finally I find someone with the same problem - I don't have a fancy MB just a 2012 Dodge Journey SE. My instrument cluster doesn't turn off so I experimented and found that if a door was opened before the engine was shut off the lights stayed on but when I turned the engine off and then opened my door and closed it right away the lights do turn off. However if another door is opened before the lights turn off, well they just stay on. Also in most cases it seems to work if the first door opened is the first door closed. In any event all blogs seem to say the first thing a dealer proposes is change the battery which is not the case with my new battery so I pushed the dealer to check further and provided the detail of my investigations. They came up with the Body Control Module is sending false readings to the panel cluster. Replacement of the Module will cost about $600.00 but I'm not convinced that this is the fix and don't want to toss out the money and still have the problem.
Have you solved your issue or has anyone else out there have a suggestion ?
Have you solved your issue or has anyone else out there have a suggestion ?
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capoole21 (01-29-2020)
#4
MBworld Guru
These cars (MB and Dodge) use CAN bus systems. It allows various components to communicate without huge bundles of wire running through the car. All it needs is a pair of wires running between all the components, like a network, and they can all talk. Parts like the door controllers, instrument cluster, overhead control panel, ignition switch, "body controllers", wipers and even the radio are powered all the time. They wake-up and shut-down based on signals from other devices. When the cluster does not shut down, it could be because it does not get the proper signal from the ignition switch. Or, because it gets an erroneous wake-up signal from another device. It can also be because the cluster itself is defective. It is possible to connect diagnostic equipment that can monitor these CAN bus signals and see what's going on, but many shops either don't have those tools, don't have techs with the skills to use them, or simply don't want to spend several hours diagnosing an issue and would instead rather just swap a part.
In this case, it might be worth spending, say $100 for a used cluster to temporarily install it and see if that fixes the issue. You can't keep the used cluster in place as it will negate your odometer, but at least you can see if it shuts off. If not, you know the cluster is not the culprit. If it does, then you need a new cluster (or, someone with the skills and tools to zero the odometer on the used cluster, and the tools to "marry" it to your car).
In this case, it might be worth spending, say $100 for a used cluster to temporarily install it and see if that fixes the issue. You can't keep the used cluster in place as it will negate your odometer, but at least you can see if it shuts off. If not, you know the cluster is not the culprit. If it does, then you need a new cluster (or, someone with the skills and tools to zero the odometer on the used cluster, and the tools to "marry" it to your car).
#5
You've hit all the points I have found I am nevertheless fairly certain it isn't the cluster largely because everything else works perfectly. The mechanic at the dealership said this in his report "performed diagnostics in cluster remaining illuminated. No codes present in system tested and instrument panel cluster is receiving false readings from BCM. Requires BCM module" I have disconnected the battery a couple of times which according to the Chrysler repair manual "says this will set the DTC and it should be reset" however that is in connection with the Powertrain control module. "http://kb.dcctools .com" talks about flashing the BCM. In the Dodge Journey forum Dodge Cares says "the instrument cluster contains the hardware and software to serve as the vehicle electronic body control module commonly referred to as the Cab Compartment Node (CCN). The CCN utilizes integrated circuitry and info carried on the CAN." What appears to be a simple problem becomes so complex with all this computerization !
#7
MBworld Guru
@Oldtimer: I assume the BCM int he Dodge takes the place of several of the other CAN devices I am used to in the MBZ world (door controller, seat controllers, etc.). Maybe it is like the AAM (All-Activity Module) from the W163 ML-Class. Anyhow, If it is the BCM, maybe it can be replaced? I know most all of these CAN devices on MBZ cars can be swapped with used parts as long as they come from the same model with the same options..
@Russell: If circuit 15 were not shutting off, then the ACC unit would stay on, too. And the wipers would work with the key off.
@Russell: If circuit 15 were not shutting off, then the ACC unit would stay on, too. And the wipers would work with the key off.
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#9
MBworld Guru
Looking at the fuse diagram, those are on circuit 15. If it's energize, those devices would have power. Yes, it requires a CAN signal to make the wipers operate, but the ACC panel would be on.
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Cita Benz'Babey (05-07-2021)
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yes fuse 51 is term 15 for cluster . Also Sun and multifunction sensor. But it does not supply N22/7
What pin on AAC do you see that its supplies from fuse 51?
What pin on AAC do you see that its supplies from fuse 51?
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Aha ok. Makes sense now. Fuse diagrams can be misleading. They probably show AAC because it powers Sun sensor. But there is only one term15 that supplies cluster. Which can keep it powered
#16
ML350
I have a 2006 CLK350 W209, and for quite some time now (at least 6 months), the instrument cluster will not turn off when I turn off the car, remove the key (keyless start) but take the key away from the car, close the door, lock the car, etc. It will just stay on and drain the battery (if its longer than 12 hours or so, the battery will go down enough that I can't start it without a jump). Only way I can get it off is to remove the fuse. I'm no mechanic, and not very handy with cars. I took it to a certified Mercedes repair place (not a dealer), and they couldn't really figure it out, wanted me to replace the cluster (at $1100 or something ridiculous), so, Ive taken to just removing the fuse. Its a real hassle though, so was hoping someone on here might have some idea of what is wrong and suggestions for fixing it. My first ever post here, hoping you guys can help!
#17
Vehicle waking back up.
Cleaned connector and replaced Sam. All is good now.
I have a 07 ML350 . After leaving the car. Dash light will come back on and all the idiot light will flash on every 10 seconds.
if you pull fuse 55 or 54 it will stop.
Root cause water and corrosion in front Sam under passenger seat
#18
FIX for instrument cluster staying on
This has happened to us twice.
I tried a few random things, but I hit the brakes twice firmly and it went out!
When I got out and locked the car, it was the last to go out, about 30 seconds after the tail lights/headlights (I have them set to stay on for a bit)
I tried a few random things, but I hit the brakes twice firmly and it went out!
When I got out and locked the car, it was the last to go out, about 30 seconds after the tail lights/headlights (I have them set to stay on for a bit)