Musical Brakes (Not Really But...)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Aston, PA
2005 CLK55 Cab, 2012 C300
Musical Brakes (Not Really But...)
This past summer my front brakes began to squeal and, after pulling the wheels, I noticed it was almost time to replace them so did just that a few days later. I bought Pagid brakes (http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/0054203920) from AutohausAZ after using them (all of the time) without issue on my W208. Brakes went on without an issue and after a few minutes of driving, the brakes would "whine" when coming to a slowing stop (like when driving around town and stopping at a stop sign). When I broke hard or quickly, no whine. The whine is not your typical squeal and, according to my "musical" ear it is in fact an "E" note being sounded by my front brakes. It is so loud that I honestly cannot tell if it's one side or the other (or both) wheels. I drove it around for about 250 miles to see if it "went away" as the brakes wore in but it's still there.
Today, I pulled both wheels again, inspected the brakes (wear is even), re-lubed everything, and took it for another spin. After about 15 minutes of driving, the brakes started whining again.
The car is a 2005 CLK55 with about 40,000 miles on it.
Checking here before taking it to the stealership (where I most certainly will be told I need new rotors / brakes / calipers / etc.)
Any ideas????
Today, I pulled both wheels again, inspected the brakes (wear is even), re-lubed everything, and took it for another spin. After about 15 minutes of driving, the brakes started whining again.
The car is a 2005 CLK55 with about 40,000 miles on it.
Checking here before taking it to the stealership (where I most certainly will be told I need new rotors / brakes / calipers / etc.)
Any ideas????
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Aston, PA
2005 CLK55 Cab, 2012 C300
I think that may be right... I notice that if I jam on the brakes, it gives me about 5 minutes of whine-free operation.
Problem is, why do the brakes keep glazing? Am convinced that I might just have to pay double for OEM pads and re-do them in the Spring.
Problem is, why do the brakes keep glazing? Am convinced that I might just have to pay double for OEM pads and re-do them in the Spring.
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2012 C300 4MATIC Sport
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Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Midlands, UK
CLK W209
I use pagid on all my cars, and that’s all my two CLKs have had, and they’ve been nothing but perfect...
I highly doubt it’s the pagid pads that are causing the issue, unless they’re faulty, but that could happen to any manufacturer.
Last edited by sailorben; Dec 20, 2017 at 04:23 PM.
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From: Austin, TX
2006 E55, 2012 GLK350 & 1992 190e sportline
I was having the same issue. new rotors new pads, correct bed-in process and still lots of noise. I bought this stuff (not from this site) and it worked great. It is messy as hell though. It drys to almost a rubber substance.
https://www.finditparts.com/products...xoCa-AQAvD_BwE
https://www.finditparts.com/products...xoCa-AQAvD_BwE
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Aston, PA
2005 CLK55 Cab, 2012 C300
Tell me about it. My W208 wore them all the time, little spongier than the stock brakes but 1,000X less dust! I'm surprised (and disappointed) that that seems to no longer be the case...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Aston, PA
2005 CLK55 Cab, 2012 C300
I was having the same issue. new rotors new pads, correct bed-in process and still lots of noise. I bought this stuff (not from this site) and it worked great. It is messy as hell though. It drys to almost a rubber substance.
https://www.finditparts.com/products...xoCa-AQAvD_BwE
https://www.finditparts.com/products...xoCa-AQAvD_BwE
https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...aliper-lube-4/
Really thick and sorta slimy. Even applied it to the back of the brake pads (like it said to do) but didn't work.
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My few cents worth:
1. If the rotors are not warped, don't turn them. Instead "knock them down" by rough sanding them to remove the shine.
2. I like the CRC red paste, but have not used it on MBZ brakes. It will need to handle a good bit of heat.
3. The Permatex stuff can't take the heat. Try genuine MBZ brake lube.
1. If the rotors are not warped, don't turn them. Instead "knock them down" by rough sanding them to remove the shine.
2. I like the CRC red paste, but have not used it on MBZ brakes. It will need to handle a good bit of heat.
3. The Permatex stuff can't take the heat. Try genuine MBZ brake lube.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Aston, PA
2005 CLK55 Cab, 2012 C300
Was at the stealership and asked them about this (since I have yet to fix it and the car generally sits through most of the winter) and they told me that when replacing brakes I should always replace the rotors too (!!!). To the tune of $2200... Now I only have 40k on this car so unloading that kind of money seems preposterous to me, but they said that this is an "issue" with this particular car and that replacing pads only was a crapshoot. Lies? It's crap like this that has me wanting to buy my W208 back and just sell this pig off.
What's the forum's experience with this?
What's the forum's experience with this?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 478
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From: California
2023 E450 AT, 1996 S420, (sold) 2004 CLK320 Convertible (v8, 6 speed)
Replacing rotors every time you replace pad is definitely bs )))
My brakes are also musical with exact the same symptoms you described except in my case it's original MB pads (the same brakes from clk/slk55), but I've installed all new components in the same time
(calipers, rotors and pads).
I'm going to re-lube mine with plenty of CRC red paste.
My brakes are also musical with exact the same symptoms you described except in my case it's original MB pads (the same brakes from clk/slk55), but I've installed all new components in the same time
(calipers, rotors and pads).I'm going to re-lube mine with plenty of CRC red paste.
Last edited by dzmitry; May 10, 2018 at 03:51 PM.
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You know, if I owned a dealership, I;d probably suggest that the rotors, the transmission, and maybe some seat leather should be replaced at every brake job! Yeah, what a bunch of "stealers". Whenever you replace pads, you simply check the rotor thickness and if its in spec, you keep them, if not, you replace them. if you keep them, they should be "knocked down" (sanded) to remove the shine in prep for bedding new pads.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Seattle area
CLS55
You know, if I owned a dealership, I;d probably suggest that the rotors, the transmission, and maybe some seat leather should be replaced at every brake job! Yeah, what a bunch of "stealers". Whenever you replace pads, you simply check the rotor thickness and if its in spec, you keep them, if not, you replace them. if you keep them, they should be "knocked down" (sanded) to remove the shine in prep for bedding new pads.
I've sanded brake rotors before usually before putting on new pads, it's definitely worth a shot in this case.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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This company sells excellent products for quiet brakes, including lubricants and a drill-operated hone for knocking down rotors:
www.gwrauto.com/gwrmain.html
www.gwrauto.com/gwrmain.html
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Aston, PA
2005 CLK55 Cab, 2012 C300
SO FAR SO GOOD with the CRC Red Paste!
I will admit to having driven only a few miles but so far no noises at all.
I go on a much longer trip (3 hours) tomorrow so will have a better idea of whether I can hang my MISSION ACCOMPLISHED banner up or not. Will check back in if it DIDN'T work, otherwise, assume it did!
Thanks all!
L
I will admit to having driven only a few miles but so far no noises at all.
I go on a much longer trip (3 hours) tomorrow so will have a better idea of whether I can hang my MISSION ACCOMPLISHED banner up or not. Will check back in if it DIDN'T work, otherwise, assume it did!
Thanks all!
L
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 23
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From: Aston, PA
2005 CLK55 Cab, 2012 C300
Went for a ride today and the noise is back!
Will replace with genuine pads this time and give it one more try with the CRC paste. If that doesn't work, I'll glop on enough paste to shut them up for a day or two and trade the turd in on a new car.
Will replace with genuine pads this time and give it one more try with the CRC paste. If that doesn't work, I'll glop on enough paste to shut them up for a day or two and trade the turd in on a new car.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 478
Likes: 109
From: California
2023 E450 AT, 1996 S420, (sold) 2004 CLK320 Convertible (v8, 6 speed)
Applied Mercedes anti-squeal paste (001989945112) about 3 weeks ago, no squeals so far. Also sanded rotors and removed some rough edges from pads.
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Joined: Mar 2019
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2017 GLC300 Coupe 4matic
Was at the stealership and asked them about this (since I have yet to fix it and the car generally sits through most of the winter) and they told me that when replacing brakes I should always replace the rotors too (!!!). To the tune of $2200... Now I only have 40k on this car so unloading that kind of money seems preposterous to me, but they said that this is an "issue" with this particular car and that replacing pads only was a crapshoot. Lies? It's crap like this that has me wanting to buy my W208 back and just sell this pig off.
What's the forum's experience with this?
What's the forum's experience with this?
