clk320 6 speed 5.0 v8 swap
10-10-2023, 06:25 PM
#51
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hello Dzmitry,
I think I will swap the transmission since it's the right one for that M113 engine. As far as the diff goes, if possible, I would like to avoid swapping it. What do you think would be the pros and cons of leaving the E320 diff and using it with the M113? Would this setup result in more torque and acceleration at the expense of top speed?
Thanks for the suggestion on replacing parts. I will definitely replace some parts while the engines are out!
Regarding the coding, since I have both cars in perfect running condition, wouldn't it be possible to just swap all modules along with the engines/trans and thereby avoid coding the ECU?
I would prefer doing that if possible. I assume that certain modules, such as the airmatic or parktronic, don't need to be swapped. I believe I can later deactivate these from the developer options inside the CWG using the SDS.
Thanks!
I think I will swap the transmission since it's the right one for that M113 engine. As far as the diff goes, if possible, I would like to avoid swapping it. What do you think would be the pros and cons of leaving the E320 diff and using it with the M113? Would this setup result in more torque and acceleration at the expense of top speed?
Thanks for the suggestion on replacing parts. I will definitely replace some parts while the engines are out!
Regarding the coding, since I have both cars in perfect running condition, wouldn't it be possible to just swap all modules along with the engines/trans and thereby avoid coding the ECU?
I would prefer doing that if possible. I assume that certain modules, such as the airmatic or parktronic, don't need to be swapped. I believe I can later deactivate these from the developer options inside the CWG using the SDS.
Thanks!
Yep you should get a bit more wheel torque, which is kinda good
If you want to avoid coding the ECU you'll probably need to swap ECU, probably CGW (in w209/w203 CGW is integrated into EZS), Keys, TCU (if you are swapping transmission), most likely Ignition switch (EZS) and steering column lock module.
10-14-2023, 06:31 PM
#52
Hey sorry for the delay, started working on the guide how to configure ME2.8 ECUs https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...explained.html, still work in progress
1. Ideally I'd try to match HW version (can be found on the ECU sticker)
2. You don't need DAS/Xentry to do the configuration, K-TAG is enough
1. Ideally I'd try to match HW version (can be found on the ECU sticker)
2. You don't need DAS/Xentry to do the configuration, K-TAG is enough
Regarding point 1. I'm glad to hear that. I was able to purchase an ecu last week on eBay with the same serial number and the same version of HW.
Thank you very much for the link to the guide post. I will try as much as possible to complete point 2 following the guide and the content of the post.
Once again, thank you very much for sharing your work with the community.
10-15-2023, 10:07 PM
#53
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hey, you don't need to apologize for anything.
Regarding point 1. I'm glad to hear that. I was able to purchase an ecu last week on eBay with the same serial number and the same version of HW.
Thank you very much for the link to the guide post. I will try as much as possible to complete point 2 following the guide and the content of the post.
Once again, thank you very much for sharing your work with the community.
Regarding point 1. I'm glad to hear that. I was able to purchase an ecu last week on eBay with the same serial number and the same version of HW.
Thank you very much for the link to the guide post. I will try as much as possible to complete point 2 following the guide and the content of the post.
Once again, thank you very much for sharing your work with the community.
A couple of warnings about K-TAG software:
1. since it's ... let's say not 100% original version of the software I would not install it on my main computer, it probably contains some malware/viruses, so use some spare laptop without the Internet access (I'm this is required) and no access to your sensitive information.
2. You will require one "Grabber hook", something like this cheaper alternative works too. Connecting to the ECU is very simple and well documented in the K-TAG software.
3. After reading the ECU you'll need to save the ECU files separately (the software will ask you about this). You'll get 4 files, and you are looking for .EPR file.
Feel free to ping me if you have any problems with it.
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giorgionat (10-16-2023)
10-16-2023, 07:46 PM
#54
A couple of warnings about K-TAG software:
1. since it's ... let's say not 100% original version of the software I would not install it on my main computer, it probably contains some malware/viruses, so use some spare laptop without the Internet access (I'm this is required) and no access to your sensitive information.
2. You will require one "Grabber hook", something like this https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hook-Do...srs=8494778011 cheaper alternative works too. Connecting to the ECU is very simple and well documented in the K-TAG software.
3. After reading the ECU you'll need to save the ECU files separately (the software will ask you about this). You'll get 4 files, and you are looking for .EPR file.
Feel free to ping me if you have any problems with it.
I have read that it is not recommended to use the k-tag's own power supply to power the ECU, some people recommend powering the ECU with a professional power supply (I have one). Have you experienced any problems with this?
If it's ok with you, for future doubts I can post them in the post dedicated to the documentation and this way it can serve as a complement for other users.
Thank you for your quick response and advice.
10-17-2023, 01:20 PM
#55
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice, with a bit of luck I will receive the k-tag this week. I have a dedicated laptop for this tasks with no personal info in it, definitely will use it or this.
I have read that it is not recommended to use the k-tag's own power supply to power the ECU, some people recommend powering the ECU with a professional power supply (I have one). Have you experienced any problems with this?
If it's ok with you, for future doubts I can post them in the post dedicated to the documentation and this way it can serve as a complement for other users.
Thank you for your quick response and advice.
I have read that it is not recommended to use the k-tag's own power supply to power the ECU, some people recommend powering the ECU with a professional power supply (I have one). Have you experienced any problems with this?
If it's ok with you, for future doubts I can post them in the post dedicated to the documentation and this way it can serve as a complement for other users.
Thank you for your quick response and advice.
04-25-2024, 06:39 PM
#56
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: Tucson Az
Posts: 1
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2006 mercedes benz clk500 convertible
Swap
i there,
Here is a story about how my beloved clk320 went through another surgery… this time it’s 5.0 v8 swap (previous episode is here)
I’ll try to answer couple of questions first:
Here is a story about how my beloved clk320 went through another surgery… this time it’s 5.0 v8 swap (previous episode is here)
I’ll try to answer couple of questions first:
- Why not simply buy clk500? Very simple: I have an emotional attachment to my car, I spent too much money on it already, I don’t want to redo all the work I’ve already done (e.g soft top, interior, suspension, etc). Plus I have 3.27 rear diff gears (with LSD) vs 2.82 on clk500.
- Why 5.0 not 5.4? 5.0 engines are much cheaper (I’d say 3 times cheaper) and since I have manual transmission which was designed for 3.2 engine it will last a little bit longer with 5.0
04-25-2024, 06:51 PM
#57
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hey, 500 -> 55 should be easy, as for the ECU you have two options:
1. (The easy one), keep your original ECU (clk55 and clk500 ECUs are basically identical, not like with 32k/55k) and find any tunner who can update ECU mapping for bigger injectors. BTW you should be able to drive your no problem after the swap even without any changes to the ECU, but I wouldn't do it for a long and/or hard
2. Buy yourself (or find someone with the tool) K-TAG and flash clk55 fuel maps into your ECU yourself.
Let me know if you have any other questions, I'm usually keeping an eye on this thread to help
1. (The easy one), keep your original ECU (clk55 and clk500 ECUs are basically identical, not like with 32k/55k) and find any tunner who can update ECU mapping for bigger injectors. BTW you should be able to drive your no problem after the swap even without any changes to the ECU, but I wouldn't do it for a long and/or hard
2. Buy yourself (or find someone with the tool) K-TAG and flash clk55 fuel maps into your ECU yourself.
Let me know if you have any other questions, I'm usually keeping an eye on this thread to help
05-14-2024, 05:35 PM
#58
i there,
Here is a story about how my beloved clk320 went through another surgery… this time it’s 5.0 v8 swap (previous episode is here)
I’ll try to answer couple of questions first:
Here is a story about how my beloved clk320 went through another surgery… this time it’s 5.0 v8 swap (previous episode is here)
I’ll try to answer couple of questions first:
- Why not simply buy clk500? Very simple: I have an emotional attachment to my car, I spent too much money on it already, I don’t want to redo all the work I’ve already done (e.g soft top, interior, suspension, etc). Plus I have 3.27 rear diff gears (with LSD) vs 2.82 on clk500.
- Why 5.0 not 5.4? 5.0 engines are much cheaper (I’d say 3 times cheaper) and since I have manual transmission which was designed for 3.2 engine it will last a little bit longer with 5.0
