CLK55 AMG, CLK63 AMG (W208, W209) 2000 - 2010 (Two Generations)

Replaced Steering Damper ("Shock")- Wow!

Old Mar 13, 2007 | 03:08 PM
  #1  
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2005 SL600 by SPEEDRIVEN
Replaced $34.00 Steering Damper ("Shock")- Wow!

I replaced the steering damper (Cost $34.00) on Monday. This part is also known as the steering shock or steering stabilizer. It sits vertically across under the engine and only requires two bolts to replace. If I had a jack to lift the car I would have done the replacement myself. My mechanic did it on the lift in about 60 seconds.

What impressed me was at 55,000 miles the shock was shot- really shot. To be honest, before I replaced the part the steering feel was somewhat numb but I assumed this was part of the Merc steering "feel" problem and wasn't to concerned. However, after replacing this part the car responds much quicker and crisper to smaller steering wheel movements. The numb feeling has been significantly reduced.

That being said, for the money, I would recommend replacing this part on cars with 40,000 or more miles. You will be pleased with the steering feel restored to your car.
Attached Thumbnails Replaced Steering Damper ("Shock")- Wow!-damper.jpg  

Last edited by ashutt; Mar 13, 2007 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 04:12 PM
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Is $34 the cost from the dealer, or did you order it somewhere? Is this something that a reasonably handy person could self-install?
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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I amended my post above to include a link to the $34.00 OEM part, which I did not purchase from the dealer, as well as, a picture of the part.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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This is awesome. The dealer just told me that my steering shock is leaking. I assume this is what they are talking about. I will be doing this along with my motor mounts soon!
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Yes, it does make a big difference.

If you REALLY want to transform the way the front end feels, get the steering damper as well as the entire front tie-rod assembly with new bottom lower ball joints. This replaces almost every possible part in the front suspension that is prone to wearing out, and the total parts is under $200 so its well worth the money. Also, since they are all interconnected the labor isn't really that much more to just do everything at once, so you might as well replace it all.

Hope that helps
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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I actually need to replace the front lower ball joints. I wasn't going to attempt this myself. Are you saying there is a way that I can replace everything all together without needing the special ball joint compression tool?

I literally have the damper in my autohausaz.com cart right now. Let me know!
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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How did you get $34 ? your link shown $44 something ?

Andy
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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It's actually cheaper at autohausaz.com... $27!

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ering%20Damper

Is what he said up there true about replacing the tie rod assembly and lower ball joints? Will I need 12 hours in my driveway to do the ball joints? That's what I've read on here.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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w209's dont have steering dampers! rack & pinion instead
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mk4mike
w209's dont have steering dampers! rack & pinion instead
I guess we can change the tierod end (inner + outer).

Andy
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by M-bENZ
I guess we can change the tierod end (inner + outer).

Andy
Yep!
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 04:35 AM
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On the W208s, the lower ball joints simply bolt right in and take less than half an hour per side (if not less).

The steering damper bolts on directly to the tie-rod assembly on one end, and the chassis on the other. Its job is to restrict the movement of the tie-rod assembly in relation to the chassis giving it that "firm" resistance feel in the steering. Without a good steering damper, it just moves freely giving it that loose sloppy feel. However, the tie-rod ends themselves also wear out and when they do, you can feel the steering just sort of "flop" over once you turn more than one full turn in either direction.

They are all interconnected and should be replaced together as one. The only component that typically wears that is NOT easy or cheap to replace is the upper control arms (which has the upper ball joints built into them). They are a pain.

However, if you plan on doing suspension upgrade, alot of this stuff has to come out anyways so it may be a good idea to just wait until you are upgrading suspension and just do everything all at once. If you have a good relationship with your shop they will definitely cut down the labor alot, which will save you a significant amount of $$.

Hope that helps
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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55,000k that is really good, I changed mine two times already in 2 years...if you have aftermarket wheels be ready to replace it often...but yes I do agree, I changed the drag link with the steering damper and it feels like a new car, my alignment fixed too...
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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Thanks for the information AMS. That is very valuable and I will be looking to do this work over one of the upcoming weekends. I was worried that I'd need a chizel and a lift to get this done, but it sounds like the tie-rod assem. ball joints, and steering damper can all be done in the driveway. I hope that's true!
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 09:52 AM
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Mine was toasted at 30K miles. It will get changed regularly as part of routine maintenance.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by M-bENZ
I guess we can change the tierod end (inner + outer).

Andy
Would this be a good idea for a 07 550 with 53k on it?
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Old Apr 19, 2019 | 06:57 PM
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I just had the steering dampener replaced with the 300 OEM part... drove away and it felt nice... then 15 minutes later started shaking again when i was going faster, hit a bump, etc. Anyone else have that issue? Is it possible the OEM part is not the right part for this car? I purchased a stabilus 2312PW 201/18 BC.02

any insight?
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Old Apr 21, 2019 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Jessie D
I just had the steering dampener replaced with the 300 OEM part... drove away and it felt nice... then 15 minutes later started shaking again when i was going faster, hit a bump, etc. Anyone else have that issue? Is it possible the OEM part is not the right part for this car? I purchased a stabilus 2312PW 201/18 BC.02

any insight?
Its probably your control arms.
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