Replaced Steering Damper ("Shock")- Wow!
What impressed me was at 55,000 miles the shock was shot- really shot. To be honest, before I replaced the part the steering feel was somewhat numb but I assumed this was part of the Merc steering "feel" problem and wasn't to concerned. However, after replacing this part the car responds much quicker and crisper to smaller steering wheel movements. The numb feeling has been significantly reduced.
That being said, for the money, I would recommend replacing this part on cars with 40,000 or more miles. You will be pleased with the steering feel restored to your car.
Last edited by ashutt; Mar 13, 2007 at 05:06 PM.
If you REALLY want to transform the way the front end feels, get the steering damper as well as the entire front tie-rod assembly with new bottom lower ball joints. This replaces almost every possible part in the front suspension that is prone to wearing out, and the total parts is under $200 so its well worth the money. Also, since they are all interconnected the labor isn't really that much more to just do everything at once, so you might as well replace it all.
Hope that helps
I literally have the damper in my autohausaz.com cart right now. Let me know!
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Is what he said up there true about replacing the tie rod assembly and lower ball joints? Will I need 12 hours in my driveway to do the ball joints? That's what I've read on here.
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The steering damper bolts on directly to the tie-rod assembly on one end, and the chassis on the other. Its job is to restrict the movement of the tie-rod assembly in relation to the chassis giving it that "firm" resistance feel in the steering. Without a good steering damper, it just moves freely giving it that loose sloppy feel. However, the tie-rod ends themselves also wear out and when they do, you can feel the steering just sort of "flop" over once you turn more than one full turn in either direction.
They are all interconnected and should be replaced together as one. The only component that typically wears that is NOT easy or cheap to replace is the upper control arms (which has the upper ball joints built into them). They are a pain.
However, if you plan on doing suspension upgrade, alot of this stuff has to come out anyways so it may be a good idea to just wait until you are upgrading suspension and just do everything all at once. If you have a good relationship with your shop they will definitely cut down the labor alot, which will save you a significant amount of $$.
Hope that helps
any insight?




any insight?




