Ghostrider

Okay thanks... So I can set the 1 for the rich end of the spectrum and the .1 for the lean end. Sweet!

Riot Nrrrd

I just got through reading a comments thread on YouTube about a dumb "American Idol" winner (platinum blonde ... goes to reckon, doesn't it?) who had no clue that Hungary is a country ... the thread was filled with Hungarians posting in their language ... I think I understood them better than I do this thread LMAO

But I'm still smiling ... whatever it is you guys are doing, I may not understand it but it sounds like you're having fun changing your Flux Capacitors and ACME Deep-Space Demodulators

(Dan, what is "HOP"? "House Of Performance" or something? Local to LA/OC?)

Dan Wang

HOP=House of Power located in Huntington Beach. Josh is the owner.

mbenzman

So, you win Gregg. I replaced the fuel pump. I had installed a BEGI fmu previously, but it only helped minorly. I went to the MB EPC and found where there actually is a different fuel pump used for the G55K even though the parts suppliers online catalog I had checked before showed the same one as I already had. I couldn't believe this pump was feeding a 55K without a voltage boost. I couldn't find where they did that on the 55K's. I decided instead of a KB BAP or any other voltage booster, I would find a suitable high volume pump.
I used a Bosch pump # 0 580 254 975 which is rated 165 lph @ 72 psi. This has the proper style 15 mm inlet and on the outlet side I installed the proper check valve and banjo adapter for 90 degrees like the CLK's original 000 470 78 94 Pierburg pump had built on. Electrical connections are the same. Just the diameter is larger, so a new clamp had to be fashioned.

Driving impressions,
Still can't quite get full throttle yet, but little by little the animal is taking shape. For some type of tangible performance guesstimate, I installed my G-tech RR tonight and did one run. With only part throttle, it shifted somewhere around 5K. rpm in "D", (not shifting at redline obviously), the tires repeatly breaking loose (ESP on but stressing out) all through first gear, never felt like it ever could hook at all despite having a Quaife diff and me lifting, then more breaking loose in second, but finally hooking at some point still only part throttle.
The G-tech posted a 4.4 sec 0-60 despite a lousy 2.1 sec 60 ft. This is a rocket ride, more so that the e55 and a real handfull, imagine if I learned how to launch this thing. After that launch, I think it'll take a very light power brake, rolling into the throttle maybe halfway by the second gear shift, maybe full throttle at third gear shift.

Dan, your car being a coupe and 600 lbs. lighter than mine should be incredible! How about some impressions of yours, you don't seem to say much about it.

krispyw208

The real question is How much would you charge me to do this to my car???

NitrogenBalance

Nice! Keep at it. Looking foward to the end result!

mbenzman

You want your car turned into a tire boiling, part throttle only potential ticking time bomb that can drain it's 14 gallon fuel fill like a snack? Not to mention how fast the tires are disappearing, this ones worse to keep up than the E55! Fill er up and change the rear tires, please. But, you wanna play, you gotta pay.
It's not finished yet and hell, I may be in jail before then, I should already be on several counts.

NitrogenBalance

You didn't hit her that hard. Besides, she didn't pay up.

This is defenitly a project I don't want my tech working on at an hourly rate. Once the reciepe is written for this it may become realistic. For now I think it is left for the truely daring/trusting, and better left for those who work on these(aka mbenzman).


Rich, you ever see the post from GregC with all the fuel pump data in terms of rate, part #'s, and such. Alot of info. Did you go with one of those?? Also, I was going to upgrade my fuel pump this winter, and considered the kenne bell BAP also. What are the ups and downs of going with or without a BAP. Is the voltage gonna be enough for the bigger pump. Installing just a larger pump sounds much nicer than dealing with the BAP.

mbenzman

Bosch has a lot of different pumps. Like I had stated the pump I chose was based on volume and the fittings. It was not the only pump I purchased, but the one I installed. I didn't want a bunch of adapters. This one now looks like the stock setup did including using the original hose clamps.
The argument between a larger pump vs. a BAP setup is that you only run higher volume during boost conditions vs. a larger pump constantly heating the fuel.
I also don't have to jack the pressure as much since I have the large injectors, which I like. Pumps lose volume, efficiency and build heat when you have to jack the pressure, IE. via a FMU, this doesn't help your fuel demands. Now take into account that at ONLY 5 psi boost on the stock injectors, you need OVER 100 psi fuel pressure. Try going to 14 psi boost at that ratio!
Some say you can have problems jamming injectors at pressures over 90 psi, so I'm trying to stay safer and more reliable with the larger injectors and thus lower pressure needed.
I would like to still road track the car, so I wonder about burning up a lower volume pump with excess voltage used in the BAP setup. So this pump should have enough volume and not overheat the fuel without requiring any monkey buisness on the voltage and it should be able to run reliably for years as it is doing only as it was designed to do. I'm not knocking the BAP's as I may use one on the ML55 when it gets boosted, since I won't expect track duty from it. The wife's foot is getting heavier, probably from driving the E55.
Just for clarity, the BAP's (boost a pump or pump voltage booster) I refer to can be of several different brands. I like the KB (Kenne Bell) setup because of their adjustment knob and no complaints of reliability, I believe Vortech or ATI has their own, Aeromotive makes one and Kleemann even uses one.

NitrogenBalance

[QUOTE=mbenzman;2543376]
I also don't have to jack the pressure as much since I have the large injectors, which I like. Pumps lose volume, efficiency and build heat when you have to jack the pressure, IE. via a FMU, this doesn't help your fuel demands. Now take into account that at ONLY 5 psi boost on the stock injectors, you need OVER 100 psi fuel pressure. Try going to 14 psi boost at that ratio!
QUOTE]

This is new to me. The boost/fuel pressure requirements that is. I was under the impression that my fuel pressure was enough. My gauge reads 55psi at idle and peaks at about 80-85psi under boost(5lbs). I'm running the stock green injectors and the stock fuel pump. The FMU is the only addition to my fuel system. My plans were to upgrade to a better pump like you have done...I'm wondering if I should look into other additions to the system. I do plan on pushing the boost to 6 or 7lbs for next year.........Rich you are a huge help and I appreciate you roaming around this board.

mbenzman

[quote=NitrogenBalance;2543898]You are at the magic number where you will start having difficulties tuning past, and that is 5 psi. Since you are not having to jack the pressure that much, My edumacated guess is that your map sensor IS currently connected to a vacuum line which is referencing boost pressure. That will help your ME ECU compensate for the boost with injection pulsewidth, so you don't have to run more fuel pressure to compensate as much. Right around 5 psi or so if your ecu sees a map value close to 5 vts. for a period of time, it will shut down and set fault codes (& the CEL) for shorted or defective map sensor.
Do you get a cel if you stay on it hard for a full run?
With your current setup, to go higher boost it will take a load more trouble.
R

NitrogenBalance

[QUOTE=mbenzman;2543950]I don't (or at least didn't) know that I have an MAP sensor. I do know that my MAF has a split second voltage clamp at 4.89V if my rainman memory serves me well. Where is the MAP sensor on the 98' 4.3 M113's??? I was under the impression that my fuel requirements were met using the vortech FMU, MAF voltage clamp, and prayer. As far as CEL's go I've never had one caused by the system. The A/F ratio looks to be a nose hair lean but it's still well in the safe zone...I've been driving the car hard for almost 2 years like this also.

I was planning on having my S/C pulley milded down for added boost along with the adjustable version of the FMU to dial it in. My current FMU is factory set from vortech. I was also going to use the coolingmist system for added security against cylndr temps and detonation. Is this method asking for an explosion???

mbenzman

[quote=NitrogenBalance;2544082] I've tried to avoid clamping any sensors and would only consider it as a last ditch effort, but it's why your C43 is not shutting down, storing codes, and turning on the CEL. Clamping will keep the sensors value from causing shut downs by the computer reaching it's adjustment limits. But you don't have much of any protection when you fool the ECU that much with the clamps. I prefer to stretch the calibrations instead to achieve linearity. Your MAP sensor should have been located in the front of the passenger side valve cover beside the air injection valve. The sensor is mounted on a bracket along with the air pump vacuum solenoid and has a single vacuum line connected to it. The part number on your map sensor should be A011 542 06 17.
Without some type of linear fuel control, since you say your maf is clamped, then yes, you could lean out and cause damage, especially at the point where your voltage hits the clamp.
Cooling mist could provide richness if you're supplying enough methanol to richen it up. You could use a piggyback ecu instead with additional injectors, even supplying straight methanol to act as a cooling system, additional fuel system and the best octane booster in one shot.
If I remember correctly, you have no intercooler, so I would consider the piggy back injection system running methanol as your best option for safety and performance if you up your boost.

NitrogenBalance

Thanks Rich. The meth/H20 injection system is pretty complex that I purchased, you can plot graphs and tweak any aspect of the spray. I think it will help alot once it's tuned and it has a bypass valve that will electonically bleed off boost should the spray get intrupted or clogged. I'm gonna use boost, IAT, and MAF signal for various triggers.

What exactly would happen or what happens when the MAP sees boost. Not going to go out and hook up a vaccuum line to it, but along with my current setup what would the ECU see and how would it respond. Would it be a goog thing to use MAP sensor values to up my fuel rather than the clamp method I've got goin. I'm just wondering if you can use the MAP sensor to fool the ECU into nicely increasing fuel why would HPS skip this method. Is is because it is only reliable until 5lbs or so of manifold pressure??

blackbenzz

Any updates?

silence

well, i need a tach wire in order to install my split second maf scaler...

sounds like a few of you should be able to tell me where to find this?

my sc project is running but can't be properly tuned without that wire...

-drew

gregc

I was reading through fast, but thought I saw something.

A mist (meth) injection does NOT reduce A/F to make richer. It is about making the gas higher octane. Also weting the walls of the cyl. helps to lower chance of detonation.

meth does nothing for tuning.

blackbenzz

It cools intake temps

silence

meth will not mess up existing tuning much-

however, if you tune with the meth you can push the car further without detonation... therefore, if you then remove the meth you will blow up...

therefore, i dunno about the statement "meth does nothing for tuning"

JamE55

That's why i love this place!

Between this thread and the E55's VRP heads tuning it keeps me sane. lol

mbenzman,

How much rwhp would you guesstimate you're pushing right now?

Ted Baldwin

............your car does not have a tach wire.

Ted

silence

more or less true (as i've learned and understand)-

I need a stand-in such that i can tune based off of rpms

can i use one of the wires that goes to the coil pack?

I know there is a solution

e55cent found a wire which worked for him on his e55

Ted Baldwin

..........e55cent is a nice guy. He should be able to tell you where he found the wire. I don't know. It goes to further make my point that the problem with modding our cars is tunning. Don't count on abstract info before you sink money into a project. You will be left hanging.

Ted

silence

yeah, he let me know. however, he has been led to believe that his car is different from mine with regards to that wire (mine is a different color).

thanks

-drew

gregc

Attached are some pics and the install instructions to connect the Split Second Tuner to a CLK. This will allow you to change timing and modify the MAF signal for fine tuning. The unit will only reduce timing. You can change the MAF signal to tune as needed. With my 8:1 FMU, I have plenty of head room with the stock MAF.

Timing: you are cutting into the Crank and the Cam signal. The pics are hard to see, but look for a set of wires into the ECU that have a black insulation around them. This insullation helps with noise. This is the Crank signal. The other wire is Pink and its the CAM signal. THe best way is to start looking around the ECU connector. I found it better to pull out the ECU connector.
HOW: the ECU has connectors that are on little leavers. Very easy to losen without pulling the ECU. Look around for the while.

MAF: The MAF was the hardest to find for me. I ended up using a meter to ring-out the wire. The wire is Yellow-White. I found this best by look at the bundle of wire departing the ECU plastic box. It is in the top bundle.

Gound: Use the MAF ground to avoid any ground loops. Also ground the unit to the same ground just ourside the plastic box.

Email is you want any help.