gas station put regular in my car
#26
Member
Thread Starter
Kill Me Now
Ok, so the Mercedes mechanic (friend of mine) has it. It wasn't the accelerator module, that was fine actually (cleared the code). He replaced the crank sensory, car still won't start.
Now he has to replace the fuel level sensor. This tells the fuel pump when to go on and stuff like that. Unfortunately, the ****'s at Mercedes won't sell you just the sensor (gee, I see a pattern with the company). You have to buy a new gas tank to get it. His cost is $950.00 for parts alone.
I'd like to vent and describe my first Mercedes ownership encounter:
Now he has to replace the fuel level sensor. This tells the fuel pump when to go on and stuff like that. Unfortunately, the ****'s at Mercedes won't sell you just the sensor (gee, I see a pattern with the company). You have to buy a new gas tank to get it. His cost is $950.00 for parts alone.
I'd like to vent and describe my first Mercedes ownership encounter:
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
Ok, so the Mercedes mechanic (friend of mine) has it. It wasn't the accelerator module, that was fine actually (cleared the code). He replaced the crank sensory, car still won't start.
Now he has to replace the fuel level sensor. This tells the fuel pump when to go on and stuff like that. Unfortunately, the ****'s at Mercedes won't sell you just the sensor (gee, I see a pattern with the company). You have to buy a new gas tank to get it. His cost is $950.00 for parts alone.
I'd like to vent and describe my first Mercedes ownership encounter:
Now he has to replace the fuel level sensor. This tells the fuel pump when to go on and stuff like that. Unfortunately, the ****'s at Mercedes won't sell you just the sensor (gee, I see a pattern with the company). You have to buy a new gas tank to get it. His cost is $950.00 for parts alone.
I'd like to vent and describe my first Mercedes ownership encounter:
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
The dealership and some independent mechanics will try to squeeze out every dollar they can from you. They make money of parts, simply put. Every single time I had to replace a component on my car, I was quoted an absurd amount for parts. I requested the part number, ordered the part at half the cost, and dropped it off. The majority of their clients do not care, and give the green light to "just fix it." They must hate moderately informed and sensible clients such as myself...but you know what, fk them. Simply find someone who is willing to repair the car without bending you over with unnecessary costs.
#30
Member
Thread Starter
The dealership and some independent mechanics will try to squeeze out every dollar they can from you. They make money of parts, simply put. Every single time I had to replace a component on my car, I was quoted an absurd amount for parts. I requested the part number, ordered the part at half the cost, and dropped it off. The majority of their clients do not care, and give the green light to "just fix it." They must hate moderately informed and sensible clients such as myself...but you know what, fk them. Simply find someone who is willing to repair the car without bending you over with unnecessary costs.
Edit: Additionally, he told me to give him a few days to try to find a used one since the new part is retardedly expensive. I'm going to give him that part number though and hope for the best.
Last edited by Act of God; 03-27-2008 at 08:52 AM.
#31
MBWorld Fanatic!
Here’s an option. You could call your local dealer’s part’s department. Ask for the price and availability of part number 2094700241. They’ll confirm it’s $199 and they can have it in two days. Then confirm that they show that part as a fuel level sensor for a 2003 through 2006 CLK500/55. At that point, you’ll have to determine whether it’s your mechanic’s integrity or his competence that are questionable.
BTW, does the fuel gauge in the dash work?
If the part is as I say, and the gauge works, you may want to consider having it flatbedded to a dealer. I think you have water in the tank. It’s a wag via the internet, but the price is right.
BTW, does the fuel gauge in the dash work?
If the part is as I say, and the gauge works, you may want to consider having it flatbedded to a dealer. I think you have water in the tank. It’s a wag via the internet, but the price is right.
#32
Member
Thread Starter
Here’s an option. You could call your local dealer’s part’s department. Ask for the price and availability of part number 2094700241. They’ll confirm it’s $199 and they can have it in two days. Then confirm that they show that part as a fuel level sensor for a 2003 through 2006 CLK500/55. At that point, you’ll have to determine whether it’s your mechanic’s integrity or his competence that are questionable.
BTW, does the fuel gauge in the dash work?
If the part is as I say, and the gauge works, you may want to consider having it flatbedded to a dealer. I think you have water in the tank. It’s a wag via the internet, but the price is right.
BTW, does the fuel gauge in the dash work?
If the part is as I say, and the gauge works, you may want to consider having it flatbedded to a dealer. I think you have water in the tank. It’s a wag via the internet, but the price is right.
I just called Rallye. That part number isn't active anymore. They replaced it with 3 part numbers (sensor, bracket, harness) totalling about $420. I'm having my guy look into it.
Last edited by Act of God; 03-27-2008 at 12:31 PM.
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
Many years of fixing things, you learn the logic of things.
A car dying 2 miles after putting gas in= bad gas.
Period.
Now, there is a likelyhood of a possible coincidental
issue with a part going bad, and that does happen,
BUT 1st thing to look at is the gas.
Just siphon the crap out, and put some good fuel in, see if it at least starts.
Thats not hard, just buy a siphon, and a few 5 gallon cans.
Why in gods name wouldn't that have been done straight away?
And you've been dealing with this for how many days?
If the fuel turned out to be ok, you can always use it another car.
I ran regular in my C230 once...yeh, it ran like crap, absolutely no power,
but it ran long enough for me to get a station with premium.
Your mechanic is barking up the wrong tree, or rather in the wrong order.
Keep with the facts. Go in order.
Fuel, then other stuff.
If you get an improvement after draining and putting some decent fuel in,
I'd replace the fuel filter too. (60K maint. item)
A car dying 2 miles after putting gas in= bad gas.
Period.
Now, there is a likelyhood of a possible coincidental
issue with a part going bad, and that does happen,
BUT 1st thing to look at is the gas.
Just siphon the crap out, and put some good fuel in, see if it at least starts.
Thats not hard, just buy a siphon, and a few 5 gallon cans.
Why in gods name wouldn't that have been done straight away?
And you've been dealing with this for how many days?
If the fuel turned out to be ok, you can always use it another car.
I ran regular in my C230 once...yeh, it ran like crap, absolutely no power,
but it ran long enough for me to get a station with premium.
Your mechanic is barking up the wrong tree, or rather in the wrong order.
Keep with the facts. Go in order.
Fuel, then other stuff.
If you get an improvement after draining and putting some decent fuel in,
I'd replace the fuel filter too. (60K maint. item)
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 03-27-2008 at 01:32 PM.
#34
Member
Thread Starter
Many years of fixing things, you learn the logic of things.
A car dying 2 miles after putting gas in= bad gas.
Period.
Now, there is a likelyhood of a possible coincidental
issue with a part going bad, and that does happen,
BUT 1st thing to look at is the gas.
Just siphon the crap out, and put some good fuel in, see if it at least starts.
Thats not hard, just buy a siphon, and a few 5 gallon cans.
Your mechanic is barking up the wrong tree, or rather in the wrong order.
Keep with the facts. Go in order.
Fuel, then other stuff.
A car dying 2 miles after putting gas in= bad gas.
Period.
Now, there is a likelyhood of a possible coincidental
issue with a part going bad, and that does happen,
BUT 1st thing to look at is the gas.
Just siphon the crap out, and put some good fuel in, see if it at least starts.
Thats not hard, just buy a siphon, and a few 5 gallon cans.
Your mechanic is barking up the wrong tree, or rather in the wrong order.
Keep with the facts. Go in order.
Fuel, then other stuff.
Dammit, it is spring and I want my car! I've had it since like Aug/Sept and I only put 2,000 miles on it.
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
Your guy is jacking you...
just drain it, and put some gas in before doing anything else!
just drain it, and put some gas in before doing anything else!
#36
Member
Thread Starter
Car is fixed, $1,250 later
My guy found me a used gas tank/sensor/etc but he said it took him forever to do. He comped me on the towing and knocked $15/hr off his price.
Gettin it back tomorrow, woo hoo!
My guy found me a used gas tank/sensor/etc but he said it took him forever to do. He comped me on the towing and knocked $15/hr off his price.
Gettin it back tomorrow, woo hoo!
#37
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#38
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CLK 55
atleast ur gettin ur baby back nice n early in the season, mine is in the shop now after already having to drop 1k, it has to be checked out @ the stealership, so who knows whats in store.... in any event enjoy the roads
#39
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Yo DBLNICKL, what's wrong with your car? Engine mounts? PCV?
#40
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CLK 55
uhhhh, had my trans. replaced last year, of course it was acting up for a while (dealer installed so it's under warranty *phew!*), time for new spark plugs, oil change, trans. fluid change, rims going back on, new front brakes n rotors, and some other little annoying ***** here n there that needs attention...changed the engine mounts last year...hopefully i'll have my V back within the next week...pray for me...ha
sorry anyone havin issues with the rear parking lights? mine went out, i had em replaced and they went out again within like 2 months...i've seen a few other CLK's with the back up brake lights on as well, idk if it's the bulbs or some kind of electic short...
sorry anyone havin issues with the rear parking lights? mine went out, i had em replaced and they went out again within like 2 months...i've seen a few other CLK's with the back up brake lights on as well, idk if it's the bulbs or some kind of electic short...
Last edited by DBLNICKL; 04-02-2008 at 12:06 PM.
#41
MBWorld Fanatic!
uhhhh, had my trans. replaced last year, of course it was acting up for a while (dealer installed so it's under warranty *phew!*), time for new spark plugs, oil change, trans. fluid change, rims going back on, new front brakes n rotors, and some other little annoying ***** here n there that needs attention...changed the engine mounts last year...hopefully i'll have my V back within the next week...pray for me...ha
sorry anyone havin issues with the rear parking lights? mine went out, i had em replaced and they went out again within like 2 months...i've seen a few other CLK's with the back up brake lights on as well, idk if it's the bulbs or some kind of electic short...
sorry anyone havin issues with the rear parking lights? mine went out, i had em replaced and they went out again within like 2 months...i've seen a few other CLK's with the back up brake lights on as well, idk if it's the bulbs or some kind of electic short...
No issues with my rear parking lights here. Perhaps it's just the bulbs??